Using jack stands and a hydraulic jack
- Thread starter kloppilt
- Start date
- Status
I use some lengths of 2x12 for either Taurus, one or two thicknesses depending on what I'm doing. As someone else mentioned the Dodge 2500 has lots of room, where I slide a 5 gal bucket underneath for oil changes, a bucket that I sawed about an inch off of the top and a small slot out of the side for access to the drain plug.
It's certainly possible. Ball joints aren't designed for a lot of load in a vertical direction. I jack on the inside edge of the arm though, so most of the weight would just be on the control arm bushing.
I also use a rubber-covered saddle to avoid scratching paint.
I have a copy of the Honda Factory Service Manual for 1996-2000 Civics. Its comments on jacking the vehicle are as follows:
To raise the front, place the floor jack under the radiator support - this location is marked with an arrow and is slightly off-center on our 2000 model. Raise the front, and place jackstands under the jacking flanges on each side, just aft of the front wheels. Lower the car onto the stands.
The procedure is basically the same in the rear. The jack is to be placed under the hook welded to the spare tire well, and the jackstands go under the flanges just forward of the rear wheels. (That hook doesn't look sturdy enough, but the manual is quite specific, and I've done it successfully.)
No mention is made of fitting the flanges into slots so that the weight is supported by the frame members above it.
If one is using a vehicle hoist, the four lifting points are to be the four jacking flanges.
To raise the front, place the floor jack under the radiator support - this location is marked with an arrow and is slightly off-center on our 2000 model. Raise the front, and place jackstands under the jacking flanges on each side, just aft of the front wheels. Lower the car onto the stands.
The procedure is basically the same in the rear. The jack is to be placed under the hook welded to the spare tire well, and the jackstands go under the flanges just forward of the rear wheels. (That hook doesn't look sturdy enough, but the manual is quite specific, and I've done it successfully.)
No mention is made of fitting the flanges into slots so that the weight is supported by the frame members above it.
If one is using a vehicle hoist, the four lifting points are to be the four jacking flanges.
brad_d, thanks. That hook in the back doesn't seem sturdy enough to me either. But since Honda says to use it, who are we to disagree
?
I'll check to see if the front spot is marked with an arrow on my car. Even if not, I'm sure it will be a flat round area on the support beam.
I'll check to see if the front spot is marked with an arrow on my car. Even if not, I'm sure it will be a flat round area on the support beam.
This is a bad idea. Seems pretty obvious why. I just felt the need to point it out. I don't think I could find one Geotech engineer in my office that would say "that soil will not collapse on you" Unless you had engineered shoring to hold it up.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
18" deep??
In the front, it's arrowed as well as just, uhh, 'there'. I'll even take a pic for you. Its right there on the radiator support on civics. The only thing is that since the jacking point in the front rad support isnt exactly center, you're gonna have the driver's side raise slightly higher than that of the passanger side. Make sure you have your parking brake set as well as using wheel chocks.quote:
Originally posted by kloppilt:
brad_d, thanks. That hook in the back doesn't seem sturdy enough to me either. But since Honda says to use it, who are we to disagree?
I'll check to see if the front spot is marked with an arrow on my car. Even if not, I'm sure it will be a flat round area on the support beam.
I use the tow hook in the rear no problem; DO NOT use the rear subframe (The middle part between the two lower control arms) as a jacking point, it can deform, ask me how I know.
- Status
