Upgrading Battery - 51R to 35N/24F on a '13 CIVIC?

[Dave9]

I still hold that all things being equal, factory-installed batteries are better for longevity. The factory batteries (all made in Japan) in my cars have lasted a ridiculously long time, although at least I replaced just because I felt like it. They also had caps where I could add water. Factory installed batteries have some unique considerations, including cars that may sit on the lot for months without being started or charged. I've seen some dealers use charging carts, but that's more the exception than the rule.

I've seen plenty of batteries that were marketed as "north" vs "south" versions at the same price, same weight, reserve capacity, etc. I'd rather have the version meant for warmer climates. The only difference would have been the thickness and number of the plates. For my climate I would prefer thicker but fewer plates because I don't run into issues with cold starting. Even if I'm taking my car up to the Sierra Nevada, it still doesn't get cold enough to matter. This article is from Australia where they generally don't deal with freezing winters.



As for LEDs for the map lights - I've already done that. I was only talking about what happened years ago.

You are trying to project your imagination of what seems ideal to you, as a replacement for what is reality.


No. That is all nonsense. Focus on science and go from there.

Yes, northern batteries have more porous plates and that's about where the difference ends.

You describe a preference for a hybrid staring/deep cycle or just a deep cycle. This is not some word game or nonsense implied, these are standard battery types and if you want that type, it is simple enough to choose that. It has NOTHING to do with nonsense implied about OEM batteries. OEMs use a starter type battery because it meets the warranty period for colder climates too, and that battery has no mythical or magic properties.

There is no nonsense about special plates. That is entirely determined by the type of battery, what application it's targeted for

 

[y_p_w]

You are trying to project your imagination of what seems ideal to you, as a replacement for what is reality.


No. That is all nonsense. Focus on science and go from there.

Yes, northern batteries have more porous plates and that's about where the difference ends.

You describe a preference for a hybrid staring/deep cycle or just a deep cycle. This is not some word game or nonsense implied, these are standard battery types and if you want that type, it is simple enough to choose that. It has NOTHING to do with nonsense implied about OEM batteries. OEMs use a starter type battery because it meets the warranty period for colder climates too, and that battery has no mythical or magic properties.

There is no nonsense about special plates. That is entirely determined by the type of battery, what application it's targeted for

You seem to like putting words in my mouth that I didn't say. I never said anything about deep cycle batteries.

If all things are equal I will chose the one rated at lower CCA. It's a rating that's not going to affect me.

 

[Davejam]

I think that what's being said is generally true. In warmer climates you don't need the CCA and would be better served by less plates with better overall construction.
But its not really clear how to achieve that as most battery manufacturers higher tiers are based on higher CCA.
The weights aren't that different - maybe 1 lb.
They are likely the same plates just a few less...?

 

[wrcsixeight]

Batteries intended for northern climates can have higher specific gravity, 1.310 whereas for hot climates it might be 1.260, when fully charged.

But nobody ever bothers to check with an actual hydrometer.

CCA can be manipulated with the strength of the electrolyte, along with plate thickness/ number of plates and the porosity there of.

There are very few true deep cycle flooded 12v batteries, and those that qualify are not the sizes that will fit in a vehicle's engine bay.

What is a Deep Cycle Battery? - Marine How To

Light Cycle vs. Deeper Cycle NOTE: This article deals with FLOODED marine batteries, not AGM or GEL batteries. The Problem: The problem, as I see it, is one of dishonest marketing where multiple battery types wear the same clothes (sticker) and will perform differently when

marinehowto.com

All this worrying about battery quality disregards that the worst battery kept fully charged will outlast the best battery kept chronically undercharged.
You want your battery to last, regularly put it on a charger to increase its state of charge, as there is little to no chance your vehicle has this ability, even if driven for long enough to actually accomplish the task.

If you think your vehicle's voltage regulator was programmed/designed for maximum battery longevity you are seriously and overwhelmingly deluded.

Automakers will sacrifice battery longevity for a minute gain in MPG's.

It's more profitable for them, and maximum profit, more than ever, is their driving force.

If comparing batteries, then heavier weight usually indicates the better battery.

And don't just trust the spec sheet. I've had a spec'd 52 lb battery come in at 46 lbs than have the distributor claim the scale is wrong., so I busted out another which read the same and then left without a battery.

The best lead acid battery is still at the mercy of its use and recharge regimen and its average temperature. Prevent large parasitic draws over long time periods from deep cycling the battery, and do not expect your charging system is magic and a trip around the block is all that is required to fully charge it.

A lead acid battery cannot be recharged from 80% to 100% in less than 3.5 hours, and that assumes the battery is nerwish and healthy and that it is held at higher voltages that entire time.

Your vehicle will not allow these higher voltages to be held for 3.5 hours and it can take 3 to 5 times longer at lower voltages, and older batteries will not and can not reach a true full charge at float/maintenance voltages.

Provable time and again, with a hydrometer, on batteries with removable caps, or with an Ammeter on a battery held at higher voltages.

 

[y_p_w]

I think that what's being said is generally true. In warmer climates you don't need the CCA and would be better served by less plates with better overall construction.
But its not really clear how to achieve that as most battery manufacturers higher tiers are based on higher CCA.
The weights aren't that different - maybe 1 lb.
They are likely the same plates just a few less...?

It's really rather hard to tell. Yeah I get that the specs can be fudged. Still - when I needed a 51R I went ahead and got an ACDelco 51R with a 425 CCA rating even though most other aftermarket batteries listed 500 CCA. But my car was declared a loss by the insurance company before I could tell how long it lasted, so I guess I didn't get to test that out.

When I needed a 51 for my wife's car I got the basic Deka rated at 450 CCA. I haven't heard anything except good things about it, even though most of the equivalents weigh about the same but have a 500 CCA rating. I personally don't care about being able to start it in subzero temps. I'm just hoping it lasts longer and starts reliably in my temperate climate.