update on ATF in primary of H-D

[Scoop_Fraser]

Late last riding season I decided to try out ATF in the primary of my 2000 FXD and have put on a few miles this season so far. I decided to dump it out yesterday and have a look at the oil and the magnetic drain plug. My first impression was how thin the oil looked draining out. When I looked at the drain plug I was surprised to see the amount of "fuzz" and some "chunks". It's not unusual for me to see "fuzz" every time I change the primary oil, but I've never seen the "chunks" before. The amount of "fuzz" on the plug was similar to the amount normally seen after running the oil for 5-6,000 miles and I've only had this ATF in for ~500 miles. Anyway, I must say that I don't feel comfortable using the ATF anymore and have switched back to 10W40 motorcycle engine oil (what I happened to have in my stash).

Sean
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[va3ux]

I'm not sure what the original idea was about using ATF where a 10W40 is specified, but ATF usually is a fairly thin oil to begin with : a 20 weight base stock is not uncommon.

Overall, this ATF substitution doesn't sound like such a great idea.

 

[Scoop_Fraser]

Just thought I'd give another update regarding primary chaincase oils. I recently switched back to the 10W40 Amsoil mc engine oil in my primary. I was a little concerned about the junk on the magnetic drain plug after running the ATF. Anyway, I did an oil change today and found a bunch more [censored] on the drain plug. I think it's safe to say that there is a mechanical issue and isn't oil related.

Sean
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[a4tdi]

I'm using Pennzoil 10w40 motorcycle oil in the primary of our 883L and my 1200R has Schaeffer 20w50 racing oil in the primary. Both are giving good results, although the 883 will be put on a diet of Schaeffer's on its next oil change.

ATF has always seemed a bit too thin for this application, IMO.

 

[G-MAN]

Originally Posted By: a4tdi
I'm using Pennzoil 10w40 motorcycle oil in the primary of our 883L and my 1200R has Schaeffer 20w50 racing oil in the primary. Both are giving good results, although the 883 will be put on a diet of Schaeffer's on its next oil change.

ATF has always seemed a bit too thin for this application, IMO.


Keep in mind that the primary and transmission on a Sporster share the same oil, so using ATF is a big no-no. On a Big Twin, the oil in the primary only lubricates the primary chain and the clutch. The transmission has its own oil. Hence, BTs are known as "three holers" and Sportsters are known as "two holers," signifying how many "holes" you have to put oil in.

 

[fuel tanker man]

Scoop,

First check to be sure that the chain tension is good. If it's slapping, that will cause some problems. Since the particles are sticking to the magnet, they must be iron or steel. These pieces could be coming from the clutch plates.

I'm guessing this problem did not occur until you put the ATF in the primary, or else you would have noticed the problem when you drained the old primary oil out (when you put the ATF in).

There may have simply been a bit of accelerated wear on the clutch plates during the time the ATF was in there. There's no reason I can think of that ATF would harm your clutch plates, but since the problem seems to have begun with the ATF run, I'd tentatively blame that for now.

There is absolutely no need whatsoever to use Amsoil synthetic in the primary. Just go with a good 10W40 oil which isn't loaded with moly... Napa 10W40 is basically Valvoline, and there's no moly in there to speak of. Castrol GTX is another choice worth considering.

Change the oil out a couple times (using the cheap 10W40 motor oil) and I'll bet the problem goes away. It sounds like you're needing to flush the primary and clutch pack out a bit...

Dan

 

[wileyE]

Possible the thinner atf just solved junk loose held captive in nooks and cranny's by the thicker previous oil?

In another similar chaincase application I made inquiry about the constant fuzz on the magnet. Answer was the gears are made from sintered or powdered metal and are meant to be sacrificial to the chain. Idea is to polish and wear the gear, not have a situation where the chain wears and breaks.

 

[seldont]

I run Rotella 15w40 in my primary. It is wet clutch rated and seems to work well all year. Any HDEO or that viscosity I would think would be suitable but to be sure check the ratings on the bottle to see if they meet the wet clutch spec. Plus buying it by the gallon it is pretty cheap and you have enough for four changes.

 

[fuel tanker man]

I've also had good luck with Rotella in my primary... works great.

Dan

 

[Scoop_Fraser]

Thanks for the replies! I noticed recently that I have a leak from the primary and will be opening it up soon to have a look. I'd like to find the source of the bits on the drain plug.

Sean
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[Mackelroy]

I think it's safe to say that there is a mechanical issue and isn't oil related. )))))))))))))))

Maybe it is oil related , just takes a while for all the framents to find their way out, even though you switched back to heavier weight.

or maybe the damage was already done, and degrade continues what ever it is.

 

[SKUNKY]

Another area to look at is the ends of the pushrod that engages the clutch..they should be round like a ball bearing..mine were pointed after 120k miles..I ran 5-40 M1 T&S oil in my primary. My chain looked brand new after all those miles.

 

[PT1]

Try a 50/50 mix of Redline MTL & MT90...it is the perfect Harley primary oil...