Update: 20W50 VR1 in the Subaru Legacy

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I just wanted to provide an update to all the thick oil nay-sayers on here...
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I just completed a full OCI with Valvoline 20W50 VR1 oil in my daily commuter Subaru Legacy GT (Turbocharged)

Average MPG went down 1 full MPG over the course of this 5000 mile OCI. The car ran just fine on this oil although admittedly it was a little "sluggish" feeling when cold. Here recently in Florida its been cooling down to 48-50* in the morning when I leave for work and I did start noticing a little start up rattle so I figured it was time for it to go. Note this car does have a VCT system and I noticed NO ill effects with this oil.

In with the Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 10W30!! She runs smooth as silk now and definitely seems more "responsive" according to the butt-O-meter
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I often wonder about that: When did engines become viscosity sensitive to the point where you can't run a 15W40 or something even as a stop gap.

VR1 20W50 in a 2008 car is pretty awesome, most people on here wouldn't have the guts to run that oil in a modern car due to possible catalyst damage.
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Originally Posted by maxdustington
I often wonder about that: When did engines become viscosity sensitive to the point where you can't run a 15W40 or something even as a stop gap.

VR1 20W50 in a 2008 car is pretty awesome, most people on here wouldn't have the guts to run that oil in a modern car due to possible catalyst damage.
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LOL I like to live on the edge!
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On a serious note, I'm planning to tune the car and delete the cat once it fails anyway so no loss for me. The car is a 5 speed and turbocharged so its fun to drive very spirited and I do on a regular basis so I figured the VR1 certainly should have no problem holding up all summer. I will say even for my thick oil tastes, the 20W50 was a bit much. The car really feels much more responsive again with that 10W30 in the sump. I think I'll stay with this for awhile. The VR1 was a trial only because it was on sale at $2.50 a quart!
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
I often wonder about that: When did engines become viscosity sensitive to the point where you can't run a 15W40 or something even as a stop gap.

VR1 20W50 in a 2008 car is pretty awesome, most people on here wouldn't have the guts to run that oil in a modern car due to possible catalyst damage.
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It really does not have anything to do with "guts". It is there is no need to run it in the vast majority of modern cars.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by maxdustington
I often wonder about that: When did engines become viscosity sensitive to the point where you can't run a 15W40 or something even as a stop gap.

VR1 20W50 in a 2008 car is pretty awesome, most people on here wouldn't have the guts to run that oil in a modern car due to possible catalyst damage.
thumbsup2.gif




It really does not have anything to do with "guts". It is there is no need to run it in the vast majority of modern cars.
I see it mentioned in HDEO threads all the time. It's funny because most of the time the car that is getting the HDEO is a high mileage 15+ year old car or truck.
 
The owner of a shop I knew (this was in 2007) only kept one oil for oil changes: 20w50. It went into everything that passed throught that shop. I didn't hear of any problems. The Duratec 3.0 in my 99 Taurus didn't mind it.
 
I've been using Valvoline Maxlife Full Syn 10W-30 in my 5.0L V8 that is originally speced in the US for 0W-20. Runs like a dream. $18 per 5 quart when bought as a 4 pack from Walmart.
 
When I was 18, I used to run Valvoline Racing 20w-50 in my Toyota Tacoma 2.4L because it said "racing" on the bottle so I figured it must be good.
 
My 96 S10 Blazer loved Valvoline synthetic. Drove from texas back to minnesota after I put on a hitch to haul a Uhaul trailer. 2 wheel drive bought in texas sold to me by a dude in cowboy boots. So going to a thinner oil gets you better gas mileage.
 
Many modern cars have two or more O2 sensors, one infront of the cat and one after. If your vehicle has an O2 sensor after the cat it may not read proper if you delete the cat, and the computer may not be able to properly adjust the air to fuel mixture, and therefore make the mixture rich which will decrease your gas mileage.
 
Originally Posted by JimPghPA
Many modern cars have two or more O2 sensors, one infront of the cat and one after. If your vehicle has an O2 sensor after the cat it may not read proper if you delete the cat, and the computer may not be able to properly adjust the air to fuel mixture, and therefore make the mixture rich which will decrease your gas mileage.

I thougth the downstream O2 sensor only purpose was to monitor cat efficiency.
 
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Eliminating the cat in a '08 vehicle will not improve performance, even with tuning. Not a good idea.


Turbocharged car, larger exhaust and injectors as well as a tune makes a massive difference in power, any removal of backpressure in a turbo car is a major gain and has been proven many times on the dyno.
 
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