Unused Ecogard X4612 Cut Open

[HonorAndHonesty]

I decided to dissect a new Chinese Ecogard filter. I am big on using American made parts if the quality is there even if the price is higher (within reason), so I would likely not consider these filters as long as you can get an American made filter for a reasonable price. (Ignore the fact my fleet is composed of two Toyotas...Though one is made here in Indiana.) None of vehicles I have even use this filter, but it was the cheapest one on amazon I could find. One of the vehicles this filter fits is a Honda S2000. Now would I go zinging my s2000 to 9k rpm with the ecogard filter protecting it?.... Probably wouldn't kill it, but I wouldn't. Anyway, I found a few issues that would preclude me from using the ecogard vs. say a Orange fram for a few bucks more, even if it strictly came down to only dollars and cents. Im curious what every thinks. "Premium" Oil filter. Its a nice touch to have the cross reference on the box. Plastic seals the can. Its a long ride from China, got to keep those creepy crawlies out. Looks Good so far. A relatively young sample. I got this off Amazon for 1.88 as an add on item. The sybols Get the point across. Note the arrows that indicate quarter turn revolutions on filter. The ADBV was soft and pliable. No cuts or imperfections noted. The inside has the slightest residue inside. It didn't feel oily. Soapy water residue? It didn't wipe off using light pressure. Pleats are uniform and plentiful. Sloppy Glue Job. Blowing on the Bypass valve it seemed like a little bit of air leaked thru thru. It was hardly a scientific test though. I cut the media away to get a better look at the glue job. The flange where the threads were tapped were very rough and I was concerned that a flake could possibly come off, but everything seemed secure. Still though I feel its concerning. The Ecogard tap plates compared to two frams. The frams have a much better finish and quality. The roughness is not there on the frams. The Media seems thin. The centertube is flimsy and does not have a solid edge on the ends, but it gets the job done. I noticed some molding flash on the pressure relief valve. A closeup of the flash. I was able to dislodge some by running my finger over it a few times. I feel this easily could become dislodged and end up going into the engine. Probably wouldn't hurt anything though... You can see where the bypass sealed off center on the endcap, it was close to the edge of not sealing at all. But in the end it appears to have sealed.

 

[SZR48207]

Thanks for the pics. I wonder if they do the leak testing with air? It would have to be air right?

 

[blupupher]

About the same as what I found when I cut mine open, but I am using them. I have one on my truck right now. I mean it is a <$2 filter.

Originally Posted By: Reddy45

Thanks for the pics. I wonder if they do the leak testing with air? It would have to be air right?

Yes, they said they use air when doing leak testing when I contacted them.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted By: Reddy45

... I wonder if they do the leak testing with air? It would have to be air right?

I'd bet their leak testing checks only the can-to-base seam, not the valves or any other possible points of internal leakage.

 

[Rolla07]

I doubt any issues running it but I think a Napa proselect for likely 3$ +/-, is far superior. The proselects also have the plastic covering on them, I do wonder if its to keep the nitrile adbv good in some way? Toyota OEM filters have the plastic too, but they are prelubed.

 

[HonorAndHonesty]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07

I doubt any issues running it but I think a Napa proselect for likely 3$ +/-, is far superior. The proselects also have the plastic covering on them, I do wonder if its to keep the nitrile adbv good in some way? Toyota OEM filters have the plastic too, but they are prelubed.

Do you know who makes the proselect? I always figured the plastic was to keep bugs and moisture out of the filter when it's on the slow boat from china. It certainly does the job, especially for under 2 bucks, but if I was going based on cost vs quality Id say a Fram orange can wins out in my book, or the Napa filter. I feel better using a u.s. made filter. I could see a some shops using ecogards because the savings add up, but at what cost...

 

[HonorAndHonesty]

Would it be better in the long run to buy a Fram ultra and run it 30k miles vs an ecogards for 5k? It would certainly be cheaper. I'm curious what an ecogard with 10k miles on it would look like. I will try to find some performancespecs on ecogards. I seem to remember reading here that they were 80 some percent efficient at 30 microns.

 

[blupupher]

This blue ECOGARD Premium Oil Filter is 98.8% efficient > 30um and 87.97% efficient > 20um per the rep I contacted. Their Synthetic+ filter (a silicone ADV/syn blend media) is 99.9% @ 25 microns.

 

[JC1]

Thanks for the very detailed dissection of that filter along with excellent pictures.

 

[bullwinkle]

Looks like a beater car special, not sure I would use this on an engine under warranty, or even one I cared much about-you're not going to have any warranty. Lucky if you got paid for the damage in Renminbi!

 

[pbm]

I would prefer this filter over a torn Purolator...otherwise, I'd probably use an ST by Wix. Because both of my Ford's have the PITA to remove 'bellypan'....I'm starting to think of running an FU (or other premium filter like the Bosch D+ that I bought on Clearance) for 2 OCI's, using my Mityvac for a top-side oil change.

 

[Triplicate]

I bought 10 of these exact filters on Amazon for 18 bucks back in June. I have one on a 2010 Sentra with the MR20DE engine and one on a 2011 Rogue with the QR25. Both running Magnatec 10w30 at a 5k OCI. No issues yet. If anything goes sideways I'll post pics.