Trunk issues with both of my cars!

I just can't see what the benefit of having an all electric latch is on a small car. For decades the old lock cylinder or cable operated units worked fine until the car got so old or so beaten up that the parts failed.
 
The dealer has determined that it’s the BCM after all. Cost for that is $580 plus tax.
I'm guessing that doesn't include the diagnostic labor charge or the programming needed for the BCM to "shake hands" with the ECM. Glad that they figured it out quickly. I would also ask for the old BCM back because you can often clean off the corrosion with DeoxIt (D5 or Gold) contact cleaner and restore functionality.
 
I just can't see what the benefit of having an all electric latch is on a small car. For decades the old lock cylinder or cable operated units worked fine until the car got so old or so beaten up that the parts failed.
It does seem odd? If it was cheaper, I think the same cars would have an electric latch on the fuel door? All of my cars still have cable for the fuel doors. I guess the automatic trunk open and closing requires it, so it trickles down to all their vehicles?
Subaru being subaru has both a cable release and an electric latch on my 2016 Impreza sedan... The trunk release button on trunk, doesn't always work even if the rest of the car is unlocked? But if you use the key fob, it only works if you unlock the rest of the car first... Or something like that, I haven't got it all memorized, but the cable release works all time, so I just use that.
Our 18 Outback just has the electric latch and there's no special ritual to remember to open the trunk.
 
There is no keyhole on this trunk

The dealer put a new battery in it yesterday and left the car overnight and when they got in the trunk was open and the trunk mechanism was constantly cycling. So they should be able to easily diagnose the problem now.
My first thought was that you should simply replace the 12V battery since it is due based upon age and aging batteries can have odd effects on the car's electrical systems.
Guess that wasn't it after all.
 
I just can't see what the benefit of having an all electric latch is on a small car. For decades the old lock cylinder or cable operated units worked fine until the car got so old or so beaten up that the parts failed.
I know with my Scion tC, there is no keyhole, probably because it more design look to it.

I'm guessing that doesn't include the diagnostic labor charge or the programming needed for the BCM to "shake hands" with the ECM. Glad that they figured it out quickly. I would also ask for the old BCM back because you can often clean off the corrosion with DeoxIt (D5 or Gold) contact cleaner and restore functionality.
I was thinking the same thing, get that old part back, and definitely examine it. I know my tinkering with electrical boards over the years it makes it seem simple to look at the board, but it would be really telling to open it, take a picture and show us. @Patman I bet you might see where the failure is! I've worked on Honda's ECU's before and sometimes they DO take the cheaper priced route on some circuit board components.
 
I got the Civic back and the bill was less than I expected. It was $1175 ($828 US)

The Corvette will probably end up being more than I thought 😳
 
I got the Civic back and the bill was less than I expected. It was $1175 ($828 US)

The Corvette will probably end up being more than I thought 😳
Did you get the old part back? If so, ever think of taking it apart and uploading a picture here of the circuit board?
 
After doing my first walking tour of the day I went back to my Civic for a drink and some snacks and the trunk was open and the lock mechanism just continually is cycling again 😡 I’m gonna have to take it back to the dealer this afternoon now. 🤦‍♂️
I suggest taking a 30 second video of the latest malfunction on your phone as evidence in the event the problem resolves itself before you can get it back to the dealership.
 
I suggest taking a 30 second video of the latest malfunction on your phone as evidence in the event the problem resolves itself before you can get it back to the dealership.
@Patman You know this reminds me of my old Civic, the door actuator on the driver's door kept randomly cycling unlocking the door. Replaced it, no issues.. But then a couple years later, happened again..I'm wondering if that's what's happening here.. If the dealer replaced the BCM for this, that isn't the issue, I would be talking to them about getting a refund!!

More of the "PARTS CANNON" being fired at the issue.. sad..

I agree to get proof of the situation like @Nukeman7 suggested, that way the dealer can't pass it off with that hilarious phrase "no issues at this time"..
 
My '15 accord used to pop the truck randomly, doesn't do it now and no idea if or how it was solved.
 
I suggest taking a 30 second video of the latest malfunction on your phone as evidence in the event the problem resolves itself before you can get it back to the dealership.
I did take a video but I didn’t need it because when I pulled into the service bay it was still doing it and the service advisor witnessed it
 
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