Hey y'all, I am trying to replace the spark plugs in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra with 198K miles. It seemed like it should be an easy job, but only one of the four plugs seems to want to come out. The others simply will not come out no matter how many times I loosen them and rock them back and forth. Does anybody have any tips to help me get the other three out? Four cylinders are supposed to be easy to change spark plugs on, but it seems like this car doesn't want to be fixed.
Trouble with Spark Plug Removal
- Thread starter mcgophers
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Originally Posted By: mcgophers
Originally Posted By: Leo99
They just spin and spin and don't spin out?
Pretty much, yeah.
Usually when something spins and spins and spins and doesn't come out tells me it 'might' be stripped. Hard to tell w/o actually putting a wrench to it and feeling it.
Originally Posted By: Leo99
They just spin and spin and don't spin out?
Pretty much, yeah.
Usually when something spins and spins and spins and doesn't come out tells me it 'might' be stripped. Hard to tell w/o actually putting a wrench to it and feeling it.
Run the engine at idle for 5 min then try, spray penetrating oil down at the base of the plug while you rock it back and forth then let it sit overnight.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Put the one plug back in and start the car. Make sure the hood is open and put a blanket over the engine.
If your threads are THAT boogered, the plugs will "pop" right out.
If your threads are THAT boogered, the plugs will "pop" right out.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Put the one plug back in and start the car. Make sure the hood is open and put a blanket over the engine.
If your threads are THAT boogered, the plugs will "pop" right out.
Classic.
This is why I love BITOG.
Put the one plug back in and start the car. Make sure the hood is open and put a blanket over the engine.
If your threads are THAT boogered, the plugs will "pop" right out.
Classic.
This is why I love BITOG.
The plugs rock back and forth? If so then it sounds to me like they are out, but that you can't pull them out of the plug well because perhaps you are using a regular socket. Try buying the same size socket "spark plug socket" with a rubber boot inside that will grip the top part of the plug and allow you to pull them out with ease. Any Sears or other store that sells tools will have them.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Run the engine at idle for 5 min then try, spray penetrating oil down at the base of the plug while you rock it back and forth then let it sit overnight.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
Run the engine at idle for 5 min then try, spray penetrating oil down at the base of the plug while you rock it back and forth then let it sit overnight.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
Originally Posted By: Number_35
Originally Posted By: Trav
Run the engine at idle for 5 min then try, spray penetrating oil down at the base of the plug while you rock it back and forth then let it sit overnight.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
I've heard rumors NGKs have some type of coating on their threads that act as anti-seize. Don't know if true or not. And they don't want double anti-seize. I always add a dab or two...doesn't take much...and haven't had issues.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Run the engine at idle for 5 min then try, spray penetrating oil down at the base of the plug while you rock it back and forth then let it sit overnight.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
I've heard rumors NGKs have some type of coating on their threads that act as anti-seize. Don't know if true or not. And they don't want double anti-seize. I always add a dab or two...doesn't take much...and haven't had issues.
I always use anti-seize, even on the plugs that don't need it. Never had a problem. The only thing you have to be aware of, is that anti-seize makes it easy to over tighten especially on aluminum heads.
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Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
The plugs rock back and forth? If so then it sounds to me like they are out, but that you can't pull them out of the plug well because perhaps you are using a regular socket. Try buying the same size socket "spark plug socket" with a rubber boot inside that will grip the top part of the plug and allow you to pull them out with ease. Any Sears or other store that sells tools will have them.
or a magnetic pick up...
The plugs rock back and forth? If so then it sounds to me like they are out, but that you can't pull them out of the plug well because perhaps you are using a regular socket. Try buying the same size socket "spark plug socket" with a rubber boot inside that will grip the top part of the plug and allow you to pull them out with ease. Any Sears or other store that sells tools will have them.
or a magnetic pick up...
Originally Posted By: c502cid
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
The plugs rock back and forth? If so then it sounds to me like they are out, but that you can't pull them out of the plug well because perhaps you are using a regular socket. Try buying the same size socket "spark plug socket" with a rubber boot inside that will grip the top part of the plug and allow you to pull them out with ease. Any Sears or other store that sells tools will have them.
or a magnetic pick up...
Or the plug wires/coils... A lot of people forget you can just use those to pull a plug from its home once it is loose. :wave:
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
The plugs rock back and forth? If so then it sounds to me like they are out, but that you can't pull them out of the plug well because perhaps you are using a regular socket. Try buying the same size socket "spark plug socket" with a rubber boot inside that will grip the top part of the plug and allow you to pull them out with ease. Any Sears or other store that sells tools will have them.
or a magnetic pick up...
Or the plug wires/coils... A lot of people forget you can just use those to pull a plug from its home once it is loose. :wave:
Last edited:
Are you using a spark plug socket with a rubber grommet in it?
Kinda funny, briansmobile1 just released a video related to this subject. Some of the stuff like using anti-seize and dielectric grease might be obvious, but I like the tip on using a dremel on an old spark plug to clean threads.
This won't really help get the plugs out, but still some good tips in the video.
https://youtu.be/T6O7LiosDqo
This won't really help get the plugs out, but still some good tips in the video.
https://youtu.be/T6O7LiosDqo
Originally Posted By: Number_35
Originally Posted By: Trav
Run the engine at idle for 5 min then try, spray penetrating oil down at the base of the plug while you rock it back and forth then let it sit overnight.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
Same here, I learned that trick in shop class. Anti seize on the plug threads is a big help.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Run the engine at idle for 5 min then try, spray penetrating oil down at the base of the plug while you rock it back and forth then let it sit overnight.
Start the engine after sitting and let it idle for 5 min and try to remove them, do not put them back in while the engine is warm and use a little never seize on the threads.
If the plug is spinning in the hole, the threads are stripped and its going to need timeserts.
This situation is why I have used a dab of anti seize on the threads of every plug I have installed over the last 40+ years.
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
Same here, I learned that trick in shop class. Anti seize on the plug threads is a big help.
Originally Posted By: Number_35
[Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
Yes depending on the anti seize you need to reduce the torque if the manufacturer doesn't spec torque value with lubed threads. Generally I reduce it by 25% but many plugs today are very difficult to even get a torque wrench near them never mind use it.
I tighten them firmly not nut busting tight and never had a problem.
The worst engine I ever saw was the Ford Kent engines, when you bought them new bring it home, remove the plugs and never seize them or you may well be pulling the head when you need to change them, used always make sure the plugs come out before buying.
Originally Posted By: Yup
I've heard rumors NGKs have some type of coating on their threads that act as anti-seize. Don't know if true or not. And they don't want double anti-seize. I always add a dab or two...doesn't take much...and haven't had issues.
It helps but doesn't prevent this all the time, all it takes is once to make someone a believer in the value of anti seize.
The reasons they don't recommend it is the average DIY may not reduce the torque and strip the fragile aluminum threads or use to much and cause a cat damaging misfire. It opens up a big can of worms they rather not deal with.
On the other hand manufacturers have no problem specing it for problem engines like the Ford 3V V8 and Champion actually makes a ceramic based spark plug anti seize.
Originally Posted By: sxg6
Kinda funny, briansmobile1 just released a video related to this subject. Some of the stuff like using anti-seize and dielectric grease might be obvious, but I like the tip on using a dremel on an old spark plug to clean threads.
You can make a home made thread chase with a dremel tool on any bolt but for plugs its easier to spend $8, the nice part of this little tool is the other end is 18mm and the correct thread for O2 sensor bungs (its real use was for 18mm Ford spark plugs).
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20200-Threa...g+thread+chaser
[Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
In fact, I use it on pretty much everything (but no, not head bolts, although it's been a long time since I had to deal with them). Do you de-rate the torque for critical applications?
Yes depending on the anti seize you need to reduce the torque if the manufacturer doesn't spec torque value with lubed threads. Generally I reduce it by 25% but many plugs today are very difficult to even get a torque wrench near them never mind use it.
I tighten them firmly not nut busting tight and never had a problem.
The worst engine I ever saw was the Ford Kent engines, when you bought them new bring it home, remove the plugs and never seize them or you may well be pulling the head when you need to change them, used always make sure the plugs come out before buying.
Originally Posted By: Yup
I've heard rumors NGKs have some type of coating on their threads that act as anti-seize. Don't know if true or not. And they don't want double anti-seize. I always add a dab or two...doesn't take much...and haven't had issues.
It helps but doesn't prevent this all the time, all it takes is once to make someone a believer in the value of anti seize.
The reasons they don't recommend it is the average DIY may not reduce the torque and strip the fragile aluminum threads or use to much and cause a cat damaging misfire. It opens up a big can of worms they rather not deal with.
On the other hand manufacturers have no problem specing it for problem engines like the Ford 3V V8 and Champion actually makes a ceramic based spark plug anti seize.
Originally Posted By: sxg6
Kinda funny, briansmobile1 just released a video related to this subject. Some of the stuff like using anti-seize and dielectric grease might be obvious, but I like the tip on using a dremel on an old spark plug to clean threads.
You can make a home made thread chase with a dremel tool on any bolt but for plugs its easier to spend $8, the nice part of this little tool is the other end is 18mm and the correct thread for O2 sensor bungs (its real use was for 18mm Ford spark plugs).
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20200-Threa...g+thread+chaser
Originally Posted By: Number_35
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
I've changed the plugs in my Sienna four times now, at somewhat less than 100,000 miles. I used NGK plugs every time and didn't use anti-sieze in accordance with the instructions. I've had no issues removing the plugs in that engine.
Trav, I do this as well - there are too many horror stories of seized plugs. I use NGKs, and have never understood why they say not to use anti-seize. I had to leave several plugs on a friend's Windstar after they didn't want to budge - I was afraid of stripping the threads. A dab at the factory would have been great.
I've changed the plugs in my Sienna four times now, at somewhat less than 100,000 miles. I used NGK plugs every time and didn't use anti-sieze in accordance with the instructions. I've had no issues removing the plugs in that engine.
so whats your point?
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