Trimmer Carb not pulling up fuel ?

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I own an older Shindaiwa string trimmer that I seem to have a problem getting gas up into the carb. It's an older model S20 (which I'm told is similar to the T20) with a TK carb. This model has the primer bulb (black) on the single fuel line in first picture. After pumping the primer bulb, I can feel the gas coming through the line and the trimmer will start up but only for one or two seconds (and best with full choke). I have removed the carb; it was clean but I installed a new kit with all new gaskets and diaphragms. This made no difference at all.

I next took off both the muffler and the air filter to make sure air flow isn't an issue and that made no difference. What I have learned is that I can repeatedly squeeze the primer bulb once every 2 or 3 seconds and the trimmer will run for as long as I want to do this (over a minute so ignition isn't the problem). When I pump the gas via the primer bulb, it runs with full power and throttle response. Last I removed the fuel line that goes from the carb through the grommet and down to the filter inside the tank; and it looks normal with no visible cracks that I could see. I'd replaced that fuel line and filter some years ago and it all looked in good shape.

So for some reason this TK carb still cannot pull the gas up into the carb. I've actually had the carb out three times now (taken out all screws and cleaned internal orifices) and still can't figure what else could be wrong. (I've looked carefully and there is no internal screen in this carb) Any ideas of what I'm missing or should try to do next would be helpful. Maybe replace the fuel line again even though it seemed normal ? ?
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Try to loosen the gas cap. Is there a vent line coming from the tank? or just 1 fuel line? Might be a venting issue.
 
Check fuel lines (inside tank and out). Make sure you put the diaphram in the right way.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
Try to loosen the gas cap. Is there a vent line coming from the tank? or just 1 fuel line? Might be a venting issue.

Yes, I tried that too (loosen cap) . There was a vent line many years ago but since I purchased the replacement line there has not been one. The small engine shop sold me this fuel line as the replacement and that was 4 or 5 years ago and it had been running normal for years. It is just this single fuel line.

I tried the gasket then diaphram and then reversed it diaphram and gasket so both ways. It made no difference. I believe the diaphram is suppose to be up against the carb body (followed by the gasket) and that is the way I left it.
 
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There is a weighted fuel line strainer inside the tank. Check that. If it's restricted at all, it won't pass fuel especially the ones that look like a solid ceramic piece. Also, have you been using ethanol free gas. If not, you possibly have some deteriorated lines drawing air or internal corrosion in the carb.
 
Try running fully synthetic 2-stroke oil (JASO FD) mixed with gasoline through it in 1:100 concentration. Or just let it sit with the mix inside for some time.

That stuff is designed to clean internals and burn off without much smoke. Use it in my car since some time (in 1:200 concentration) and it did quite a good job in cleaning the carb... Idles much smoother now.
 
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I once had a very difficult to diagnose carburetor problem on a piece of OPE. I replaced all filters, fuel lines, even the carburetor and still no worky. I had spark, but for some crazy reason the thing wouldn't draw fuel. What I discovered was that the piston ring had seized in the ring land of the piston and my compression was so low that the vacuum from the crankcase was insufficient to operate the vacuum diaphragm on the carburetor.

Removal of the piston revealed a completely frozen piston ring. I soaked the piston for a few days in carburetor cleaner in an attempt to free the ring but I ultimately ended up breaking the ring trying to remove it from the piston.

Removed broken ring, glass bead blasted piston and ring land, cleaned everything up and reassembled the little engine and it has been fabulous ever since.

So before you pitch it after pulling all of your hair out, check out the compression/piston/ring and if required spend $10 on a ring and gaskets.
 
Originally Posted by Mitsu_Joe
Try running fully synthetic 2-stroke oil (JASO FD) mixed with gasoline through it in 1:100 concentration. Or just let it sit with the mix inside for some time.

That stuff is designed to clean internals and burn off without much smoke. Use it in my car since some time (in 1:200 concentration) and it did quite a good job in cleaning the carb... Idles much smoother now.

Not if it doesn't run.
 
the fuel line right where it passes thru the plastic gas tank is tight ...tiny cracks will form there and air will leak in causing lean or no fuel condition.
 
Originally Posted by izualangel
https://www.ebay.com/itm/A021002520...e-Valve/282274888344?hash=item41b8e4fa98

It's not admitting defeat. Sometimes having a known good part to swap can help diagnosis.


For that price, i'd buy it and keep the old carb, completely disassemble it and soak it. In case the new carb gives trouble you will have the old one ready to go. Spraying carb cleaner in the orifices is not enough , you have to push a stylet through every jet and hold then spray.
 
the diaphragm needs the crank case impulse to draw fuel, check the passage on the carb mounting flange leading to the block for obstructions.
 
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