Trickle charger recommendation?

[JeffKeryk]

You guys confused me with all your good advice. So I just ordered the NOCO Genius 1 for $30 at Amazon.

I appreciate all of you. My little brain was overstuffed. I have 2 brain cells left and they argue.

 

[Rand]

not a bad choice now set it up so you can connect and disconnect without opening hood?

Also unless you are walking over the cord I'd suggest some sort of reminder its plugged in.. can be anything
I used a rubber band and winter hat over the gear selector. Oh yea its plugged in.. get out unplug.. etc.

any can work if you make it into a habit.

 

[totegoat]

Have used Battery Tender Jr's on toys for years during off season.

 

[wrcsixeight]

I like the Genuis 1, but I would not like it for my Northstar TPPL agm battery, which rests fully charged at 13.06v

The Genius 1 shuts off after getting the battery to 14.7v and only turned back on when I forced battery voltage down to 12.69v with a small load.

12.69v on my Northstar would mean it is well less than fully charged.
But most flooded and AGM batteries are in the 12.8v range when fully charged and rested, so 12.69v trigger to restart is acceptable, and likely better than holding a battery at too high or too low a float voltage, and ideal float voltage is dependent on the specific battery, and its temperature.

 

[awguy]

Ctek MXS 5.0

 

[JHZR2]

Battery Tender 800 milliamps…

Battery Tender® 12V, 800mA Weather Resistant Battery Charger

INCLUDES- 12V, 800mA weather resistant battery charger and maintainer- Alligator clip connector- Ring terminal harness connector- 3-year warranty and lifetime customer supportSPECIFICATIONS- Input: 120VAC @ 60 Hz- Output: 12 VDC @ 800 mA- Unit Dimensions: 4.35“ x 2.75“ x 1.5“- Unit Weight: 1 lb...

www.batterytender.com

Ive had one of these go funny and sit at >15V. It only puts out minimal current but it still went higher than makes sense.

Others prefer a maintenance charger that holds the battery at 13.2 or 13.6v, always

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-DROK-110V-220V-Switching-Transformer/dp/B08GFSVHLS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=adjustable%2Bvoltage%2Bdc%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1641747556&sprefix=adjustable%2Bvoltage%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-4&th=1

I think a power supply which brings the battery to 14.1 to 14.5v for 5 to 15 minutes a day is what i would do for long term battery storage in a place where temperature extremes are a consideration.

OP isnt running a nuclear submarine, a data center, or a cell tower. Keeping a battery floating at 13.6V while nice in theory, is not necessary. Do you really think its a good idea to leave a long term unattended vehicle pushing 14.5V for 15 minutes a day for months on end? What exact outcome are we trying to get out of this, particularly for a hybrid where the 12v battery does little more than unlock the doors and turn on the computers/support the contactor/pre-charge operations?

I have about 15 batteries that I remove from various things and keep in a corner of the garage over winter. I was using a couple Battery Tender Jr, and they worked great.

Last year I switched to these Battery MINDer units, as they advertise desulfating.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201

I have two of them, and have a splitter for one so I can do three batteries at a time. I rotate among the batteries every two weeks or so.

Those are a good design that does float and has a thermistor that can be at the supply or remote. Decent price at Northern Tool. Id use them with confidence.

I'd get that NOCO

Generally agree. The noco will limit the amount of time at a higher float charge (not really necessary for the 12v hybrid battery), will keep it at near 100% SOC (based upon OCV @ temperature), and will take it up shortly when it drops down enough.

Im running these on remotely parked batteries on vehicles that I may not use for months. I am comfortable with its performance.

Batteries do dry out, they do undergo thermal runaway, and they do burn up in a very nasty way. For unsupervised long-term charging, I like the fact that the power electronics are limited to 1A, fuse set at 2A, so the maximum event would be limited or harder to induce. Ive left NOCO genius 1A in remote locations on my vehicles for over 8 months now with no issues.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Ive left NOCO genius 1A in remote locations on my vehicles for over 8 months now with no issues.

This is the most important post in this thread. Safety first.
I could care less about a $100 car battery as compared to a house fire that could hurt someone.

My electronic knowledge approaches zero and I know it. Your guidance give me confidence and peace of mind.

The only other thing is, the RX stores the battery in the rear of the vehicle. It is generally jumped it in the front, using a dedicated positive post and an engine ground. I plan on connecting the NOCO to the battery in the rear. Can you validate this method?
Thank you in advance.

 

[Job]

Ive had one of these go funny and sit at >15V. It only puts out minimal current but it still went higher than makes sense.



OP isnt running a nuclear submarine, a data center, or a cell tower. Keeping a battery floating at 13.6V while nice in theory, is not necessary. Do you really think its a good idea to leave a long term unattended vehicle pushing 14.5V for 15 minutes a day for months on end? What exact outcome are we trying to get out of this, particularly for a hybrid where the 12v battery does little more than unlock the doors and turn on the computers/support the contactor/pre-charge operations?



Those are a good design that does float and has a thermistor that can be at the supply or remote. Decent price at Northern Tool. Id use them with confidence.

Generally agree. The noco will limit the amount of time at a higher float charge (not really necessary for the 12v hybrid battery), will keep it at near 100% SOC (based upon OCV @ temperature), and will take it up shortly when it drops down enough.

Im running these on remotely parked batteries on vehicles that I may not use for months. I am comfortable with its performance.

Batteries do dry out, they do undergo thermal runaway, and they do burn up in a very nasty way. For unsupervised long-term charging, I like the fact that the power electronics are limited to 1A, fuse set at 2A, so the maximum event would be limited or harder to induce. Ive left NOCO genius 1A in remote locations on my vehicles for over 8 months now with no issues.

The one I have is a Solar 4 amp and if left on long term it loads and cycles the battery slightly. Like once every couple days. I guess that’s good? My daughter has a Noco 5 amp I think, don’t remember if it does that periodic loading. I am not that into it, but going to order the waterproof one from Walmart because I leave the thing out in the weather a lot. Usually I just push it under the car if it is raining, and the end of the extension cord too. Once the arc fault panel breaker protecting the circuit tripped because I left everything out and it rained all night.

 

[wpod]

Can you validate this method?

How does the battery charge from the Alternator?

 

[Duffyjr]

This is the most important post in this thread. Safety first.
I could care less about a $100 car battery as compared to a house fire that could hurt someone.

My electronic knowledge approaches zero and I know it. Your guidance give me confidence and peace of mind.

The only other thing is, the RX stores the battery in the rear of the vehicle. It is generally jumped it in the front, using a dedicated positive post and an engine ground. I plan on connecting the NOCO to the battery in the rear. Can you validate this method?
Thank you in advance.

Here is an extension cable you can use but I wonder if they have a cable like Ctek does where it hooks up to the battery posts permanently and has a quick connect.
NOCO

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC004-10-Extension-Cable/dp/B004LWV0GQ/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B004LWV0GQ&psc=1

Ctek - I have one of these hooked up to the battery side posts.

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-261-Comfort-Connect-Batteries/dp/B002OHN5NQ/ref=psdc_15707061_t2_B002MT8S7E?th=1

 

[JeffKeryk]

How does the battery charge from the Alternator?

Not sure I understand your question... I guess like any other.
This is a typical Toyota hybrid.

A month ago the battery was drained and could not unlock the door. I used the fob key to manually unlock the door and opened the hood.
I have jumper cables at all my properties. The RX was in the garage so there was no access for another vehicle.
I pulled the battery out of my old Tundra and carried it over to the front of the RX. Jumped the RX.

Jump Lexus hybrid

 

[NormanBuntz]

The original Battery Tender with the metal case. I've used it for 10 years and it's flawless.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=asc_df_B00068XCQU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312454010291&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4980765418489409160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011519&hvtargid=pla-434255813726&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61179236814&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312454010291&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4980765418489409160&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011519&hvtargid=pla-434255813726

The Battery Tender Junior---not so much. I have three of them but I prefer the original model.

 

[JHZR2]

This is the most important post in this thread. Safety first.
I could care less about a $100 car battery as compared to a house fire that could hurt someone.

My electronic knowledge approaches zero and I know it. Your guidance give me confidence and peace of mind.

The only other thing is, the RX stores the battery in the rear of the vehicle. It is generally jumped it in the front, using a dedicated positive post and an engine ground. I plan on connecting the NOCO to the battery in the rear. Can you validate this method?
Thank you in advance.

My 135i has the battery in the trunk, charging point up front.

I found it more convenient to route the battery charging cable through the hood, where I can hide it in the grill. So I used the point where the jumping bar bolts to the heavy (00) cable,that comes from the battery. Has worked perfect for 10 years now. Because that car sits in the winter, and I just keep it on charge, I installed and coded an AGM for it. The battery is at least 6 years now, honestly I don’t really remember when I installed it! Works perfect.

NoCo would be fine for that setup too, on AGM. On that car I have an AGM specific Battery Minder 2012.

The benefit of AGM is that it recombines hydrogen and oxygen better. If it’s in the trunk and thus an enclosed space, it may be beneficial…. When replacement time comes, if it’s not already AGM.

If you wish to put the charging connector ring terminals on the battery direct, I see no issue other than that then you have a harder time accessing the cable outside of the vehicle potentially. Otherwise no issue connecting to the terminals, that’s the standard way and these don’t spark near the battery anyway.

 

[JHZR2]

The one I have is a Solar 4 amp and if left on long term it loads and cycles the battery slightly. Like once every couple days. I guess that’s good? My daughter has a Noco 5 amp I think, don’t remember if it does that periodic loading. I am not that into it, but going to order the waterproof one from Walmart because I leave the thing out in the weather a lot. Usually I just push it under the car if it is raining, and the end of the extension cord too. Once the arc fault panel breaker protecting the circuit tripped because I left everything out and it rained all night.

We had been discussing this recently in my battery charger test thread. I got data and found that the solar prologix only pulls about 0.3A, IIRC. So next to nothing. It does bring the state of charge down a bit which in theory let’s it push current a bit more but it’s not a high current charge after that…. So I can’t really say how much it really matters.

 

[TXCarGeek]

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SORCPL2140?ref=MA==

I've personally been wanting to give this one a try. It's nice that it has a dedicated AGM mode. The Noco genius 1 looks appealing as well though with its dedicated AGM mode.

 

[Job]

We had been discussing this recently in my battery charger test thread. I got data and found that the solar prologix only pulls about 0.3A, IIRC. So next to nothing. It does bring the state of charge down a bit which in theory let’s it push current a bit more but it’s not a high current charge after that…. So I can’t really say how much it really matters.

They talk about benefits of slightly discharging then recharging in the owners manual, for long term storage. The charger was quite warm when in this mode. I didn’t know what it was doing and had to look it up. My charger Solar PL2140 apparently is the same as the above Carlyle, and I bought it at Napa on sale for the same $43 price I believe. The main factor for me was it was on sale. I had no idea all this could get so involved. I just needed a maintainer for my truck that rarely gets used. The manual calls the mode exercise mode.

https://cloreautomotive.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/4.0-Amp-612V-Intelligent-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-1.pdf

 

[JeffKeryk]

I hooked the NOCO Genius 1 to our GS yesterday after Amazon dropped it off.
This new toy is baaaaad-you-know-what!

I just might hafta pick up another...