I’d say you’re getting there. I slapped the cheapest Pirellis Sam’s had on my 09 Altima that my daughter now drives to work to keep miles off her new car. I aired up her tire the other day and put my gauge on them….almost 7/32nds. I pulled the order in my account and they have 52k on them but were purchased 8/21. I can’t explain why they haven’t worn because they aren’t a terribly hard riding tire. Just the opposite. Now she’s looking at a time replacement versus a wear issue.
Tread Depth and Replacement
- Thread starter HowAboutThis
- Start date
I only got one alignment in my life so far. When I changed the steering rack on my wife's 1980 Dodge Charger decades ago.+1. I have found that a good techician makes all the difference in a quality alignment. They also need to be familiar with the car they are working on. I have found the best work at race shops and specialty suspension shops. They take pride in what they do and can be especially knowledgable. Car dealers are fine too... and they often run specials.
Also, don't do alignments just because you got new tires. I used to do this...and got alignments just automatically...as often as every 18 to 24 months depending on the car and how much I was driving. That was until a trusted technician told me alignments are the most over sold service. Often shops trying to recoup the cost of the four post lift and gear. Get an alignment after suspension work or if you start to see some uneven wear or the car pulling or the steering wheel no longer straight. Otherwise, save your money. That was 12 years ago, and I get half as many alignments now and I'm no worse for wear.
Swapped out plenty of suspension parts since too. I don't see why you would need an alignment unless the tires were wearing unevenly.
JHZR2
Staff member
Same here. It is preemptive to do it earlier. We usually age out tires, not get them on tread. Our odyssey was a great example. Had plenty of tread but getting older and going on road trips pushed us to replacement. If it was the spring, I may have thought twice, as we are getting into better weather.
I also see so many folks driving like idiots in bad weather. Was actually so much worse from SC southward, especially in FL, and in TX. Just aggressive stupid driving to slam on brakes at the bumper of the car in front. You need better tires to drive so stupidly, because you have no margin of error when the idiot further up steps on their brake for no reason, driving 75 on the interstate.
LOL I've bought bunches of tires with about this tread depth, for beaters that I'm getting roadworthy. Once they pass their first inspection and I've driven them a couple thousand miles I decide if they're "keepers" or not. Thanks for paying it forward.
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2026
I have found on the BMWs and Ferraris I have owned over the years that they can be particulary sensitive to misalignment. Changing out control arms, wishbone bushings and such, definitely puts things out of wack. Replacing tie rod ends on the steering rack always throws off the toe setting. If the shop doing the work doesn't have an alignment rig and I have to drive it a few days until I can schedule it with a specialist, it is quite obvious when driving. The "before" and "after" paperwork confirms things were not right.
But more power to you, if you can skip it. Put that money back in your pocket.
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You are at the wear bars. Replace
slo town
$200 Site Donor 2026
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2026
Hey, some have them shaved close to that depth! Drive on, as long as its dry and warm out.
Once the wear is noticed, the wear pattern is established for the tire. Hard to undo. I'm not sure that hard potholes tweak alignment like it is often feared, but certainly hitting enough of them, plus time, might slowly degrade alignment. This is where getting a readout of pre and post alignment can be nice, to determine if it really is doing something, nor not. Most of the time mine seem to need it, but, my roads aren't always that great.
One of the reasons I chose my current Pirelli's about a month ago as they were 12/32 new and the 2 others I was debating them against were 11/32 and 10/32 new so figured I'd get an extra 1/32 or 2/32 over the other choices so more time before I have to hear anything stupid from anyone. 
slo town
$200 Site Donor 2026
Exactly! They are at their best for dry handling.Hey, some have them shaved close to that depth! Drive on, as long as its dry and warm out.
Scott
I generally start looking when they hit 4/32 or when they give me that slippery feeling on a wet corner.
How many feet of stopping distance difference is there between 6/32 and 3/32?
70 feet on a wet road at 60 MPH?
It isn't just you driving out there - so many total idiots that are unsafe, run red lights and just don't pay attention.
But if a person never goes over 45 MPH it wouldn't be as important.
Some things you could adjust for - you know the tires are 3/32 you leave a little extra room between you and the car in front of you, when it is raining even more and slow down on the curves. You could compensate for the poor tires at least partially.
I would rather have a little extra tread.
My tires usually age out before they wear out - but the last few sets have been close.
How many feet of stopping distance difference is there between 6/32 and 3/32?
70 feet on a wet road at 60 MPH?
It isn't just you driving out there - so many total idiots that are unsafe, run red lights and just don't pay attention.
But if a person never goes over 45 MPH it wouldn't be as important.
Some things you could adjust for - you know the tires are 3/32 you leave a little extra room between you and the car in front of you, when it is raining even more and slow down on the curves. You could compensate for the poor tires at least partially.
I would rather have a little extra tread.
My tires usually age out before they wear out - but the last few sets have been close.
