transmission flush experiance--cheap t-tec

[digitaldrifter91]

well i finally got around to flushing out my transmission after many miles with auto rx.

i drained my transmission through the cooler lines.

my experiance...
the cooler lines were a pain to take off. when i got it off i put a long rubber tube for the intake of the cooler line to the transmission and then the waste for the transmission.

when i first started the car fluid came out really fast but then later it slowed to nothing as i was adding fluid through the cooler line. it came out weird and hot...like apple juice with alot of bubbles. i then turned off the car and checked the fluid level for the heck of it.

i found out there was no fluid in there and that the transmission was starving!! so i over filled teh transmission case and then started the car and added alot of fluid. the fluid came out clearer and clearer everytime....when the exiting fluid slowed down i turned off the car and added more fluid.

after about 3 gallons of flushing i was satisfied that i got all the old fluid out.

i compared the old fluid and it was water literally. the new one held a thickness. now the transmission shifts very smooth more than before.

after all the mess i made i steamed my engine and now its better.

thanks for all the suggustins from a long time ago guys. next time i do this ill be a little neater =).

take care.

 

[jeepzj]

What vehicle do you have?

 

[unDummy]

To anyone who tries this, you shouldn't try to add fluid while the car is running during the flush. There is no way to keep up with pump flow. Pump wear will result if you ran without ATF for an excessive amount of time.

When flow from the cooler line is reduced(pan empty), always shut the car off and top off the fluid(through the dipstick is quickest), and continue again.

If there is additional capacity in the transmission after lettting the sump run dry, you can overfill the transmission and this will speed up things(less starts/drains/stops/refills/restarts).

I usually allow the "cooler hose" to run until it bubbles/gurgles(or use a clear hose bought from the hardware store to monitor flow and ATF color)....Toss in the two gallons, rerun dry(watching fluid become cleaner as bucket fills up), and top off with the third gallon.

Very simple and was the proper flush procedure prior to ATF fluid displacement machines.

Also, this is an easy was to drain the pan prior to ATF filter changing. It will prevent you from wearing ATF when removing the pan for service. Run the sump dry, pull the pan, replace filter, topoff and do fluid exchange.

 

[jeepzj]

Also, this is an easy way to drain the pan prior to ATF filter changing. It will prevent you from wearing ATF when removing the pan for service. Run the sump dry, pull the pan, replace filter, topoff and do fluid exchange.

Good idea I never thought of that. My transmission holds 12+ quarts so I would have to do that 3-4 times. Are you sure that won't hurt the pump. I'm buying 3 gallons of Mopar ATF+4 instead of Amsoil(not 100% convinced in Universal Amsoil ATF). I can get it for $20 per gallon at a dealership near my area(they offer 30% off). Only dealership in my area that offers that on everything you buy.

Also, when pulling the return line is it better to just disconnect the fitting right from the radiator(transmission cooler)?

[ May 30, 2003, 11:23 AM: Message edited by: jeepzj ]

 

[Ken2]

I drain and refill the sump (if it's fitted with a drain plug), then pump out two quarts from a big system or one quart from a small system. Shut the engine off, add back new ATF down the dipstick tube, pump out another one or two quarts, etc., etc. No risk of damage to the transmission, and you'll do the exchange with just a couple more quarts of ATF than a dry system would take to fill it.

You can't put the new ATF into the transmission through the cooler return line...it's just gravity flow, and won't flow fast enough. I've tried pouring new ATF down the dipstick tube while pumping out, and couldn't keep up.


Ken

 

[unDummy]

No damage to pump as long as you shut it off when it gurgles/blows bubbles. This will require 2nd person since YOU should be watching the flow and aiming at the bucket.
I usually pull the exit line out of the ATF cooler which seems to be the easiest in some cars. It all depends on accessibility.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

well it took me a while to realize that the bubbles came from a lack of fluid. i then changed my plan in that when the fluid slows down i turn off the car and add more. i tend to fill the transmission to the top and let it drain...at least i can get more out and less starts...as stated by UNDUMMY.

sorrie i have a 91 honda accord that requires no filter and no pan

i used Valvoline this time and ill change next time to a differnt brand, all i can say is that my car is really smooth now. pics up better as well, auto rx helped...t tec is good.

i wanted to remove the lines at the radiator but i couldnt get to it...

in the end i used 3 gallons of atf..i would of used 2 gallons but just to be sure i just drained one full bottle in there to get the shavings out..WHOA alot of crud

at least next time ill know what to do.

 

[timzak]

No drain or fill plug? Every car I've owned has had at least a drain plug. Automatics refill from dipstick, manuals have a fill plug.

 

[asenna]

I just performed this service on my car. I decided before I next do it I would add a fitting on the coolant hose for a proper drain.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

quote:

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Originally posted by timzak:
No drain or fill plug? Every car I've owned has had at least a drain plug. Automatics refill from dipstick, manuals have a fill plug.

---

i have a drain and fill plug, though the drain plug is stuck no matter what i did or what sugustions that people on here gave me.

 

[metroplex]

first:

FWD cars do not have transmissions, they're really transaxles (drivetrain and transmission all rolled into one tight PITA to service package stuck next to the engine, argh).

RWD cars do have transmissions because its separate from the drivetrain (rear axles, differential, etc...)

I've only worked on the Ford AOD, C6, and 4R70W transmissions. None of them had drain plugs on the transmission oil pan, all of them fill through the dipstick hole, and only the C6 and 4R70W had torque converter drain plugs. I had to drill and make my own drain plug for the AOD's torque converter. This gets out like 80-85% of the old fluid. W/o draining the converter, you're getting out only 50% or less.

I've also worked on the 3-speed auto transaxle used on the 88 Dodge Aries K-Car. What a PITA.

The pan keeps leaking! Anyhow, it filled through the dipstick hole and drained via the pan. There were also covers for the torque converter and differential. Make sure on your Honda you get as much of the fluid out as possible. I would not recommend a flush (w/ the machine and all), but rather just drain it.

Change your ATF (drain as much as possible) and filter every 20k-25k miles and you won't need to worry about flushing.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

thanks metro. i think i got at least 95 percent of the old fluid out. when it started comming out clean i put another gallon in there just to be safe. i compared the old oil to the new gallon i put in...the new gallon was thick...but the old oil looked like water.

i checked my dipstick and it red...haha first time that happend. usually its around a brown color. well thats when my drain plug worked.

those machines are really expensive. shops charge a little high but they are good...i just spent an hour and 24 bucks for fluid =).

o me have no filter, nor pan. im changing my atf every 15k

 

[unDummy]

Transmission/transaxle .....naming semantics...who cares.
I've seen RWD cars with transaxles and FWD cars with transmissions and AWD cars with either. Its all the same. I'm still waiting for Automatic Transaxle Fluid. Its still (ATF)automatic transmission fluid around here.

Drains plugs are vehicle specific. I wish that they all had them.

A flush can get out 95+% if enough waste ATF is used. Drain plug installation on TC's may toss balance and cause issues. It may add unneeded metal shavings into the ATF.

The disconnect cooler hose is actually the recommended method on many cars without drain plugs, and is in several FSMs on a certain domestic brand.
This method has been used for many years before trans flush machines became the norm.
Ever wonder why driveway pan removals always ends up a splish/splash affair, and transmission shop techs can pull a pan(secretly emptied) without getting their shirts dirty? The cooler line was faster than the vacuum pump through the dipstick.