I think I screwed up in my dif fluid. The manual calls for 80w. So for about the first 15 years I ran an 80w-90 gl5 gear lube. Then a ford tractor mechanic said the 80w-90 is to thick and to use their trans-hyd fluid, which is the 134 number. I've been using that for the last 15 years or so. After reading msny posts here I think I am going to amsoil severe gear lube. My question is which weight to use 75-90, 75-110, or 75-140? The tractor is use on a golf course to cut fairways so it's not use below 40F. It has about 10,500 hours on The meter.
tractor gear lube
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Originally Posted By: turf1
I think I screwed up in my dif fluid. The manual calls for 80w. So for about the first 15 years I ran an 80w-90 gl5 gear lube. Then a ford tractor mechanic said the 80w-90 is to thick and to use their trans-hyd fluid, which is the 134 number. I've been using that for the last 15 years or so. After reading msny posts here I think I am going to amsoil severe gear lube. My question is which weight to use 75-90, 75-110, or 75-140? The tractor is use on a golf course to cut fairways so it's not use below 40F. It has about 10,500 hours on The meter.
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If 80W-90 was to thick, the 110 and 140 would also be to thick.
What kind of tractor are we talking about? If what you have been using for the past 15 years is working, why switch?
So, tell us the year model and make and then all of us experts can jump in and make our recommendations.
I think I screwed up in my dif fluid. The manual calls for 80w. So for about the first 15 years I ran an 80w-90 gl5 gear lube. Then a ford tractor mechanic said the 80w-90 is to thick and to use their trans-hyd fluid, which is the 134 number. I've been using that for the last 15 years or so. After reading msny posts here I think I am going to amsoil severe gear lube. My question is which weight to use 75-90, 75-110, or 75-140? The tractor is use on a golf course to cut fairways so it's not use below 40F. It has about 10,500 hours on The meter.
If 80W-90 was to thick, the 110 and 140 would also be to thick.
What kind of tractor are we talking about? If what you have been using for the past 15 years is working, why switch?
So, tell us the year model and make and then all of us experts can jump in and make our recommendations.
Johnny I believe he is refering to the New Holland spec of UTF M2C134D. Most of the UTF's are 5W-30. I am using severe gear 75w-110 in front axle. According to Pablo it is the closest to an 80w-90 in the severe gear line.
UTF
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ath.aspx
Severe gear
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svt.aspx
My 2008 Kioti allows for the use of UTF in the front axle as well but I prefer to use gear oil since I use the loader quite a bit.
UTF
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ath.aspx
Severe gear
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svt.aspx
My 2008 Kioti allows for the use of UTF in the front axle as well but I prefer to use gear oil since I use the loader quite a bit.
Your 80-80 is just fine.
A new fill may help a bit.
But c'mon now... a 15 year old tractor making some noise?
A new fill may help a bit.
But c'mon now... a 15 year old tractor making some noise?
Actually, the way I read it he has used it for at least 30-years, but the tractor is 46-years old.
After further research from talking with my cousin in Oklahoma that has one of these and several other tractor savvy folks, they all tell me to use the Ford equivalent 134 fluid in every thing except the engine. So a fresh fill of a UTF/HY-TRAN fluid should keep you going for another 15-years. Pick your favorite brand.
turf1, contact this guy. Mark is a site sponsor and he is in your area. He will fix you up with the correct quality product.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showprofile&User=2297
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showprofile&User=2297
IMO, a lot depends on how much you use the hydraulic system and the climate. Remember that the actual viscosity of a 90 grade, measured in centistokes, is only a few steps higher than the specified oil.If you look at the main BITOG website home page, you'll see a viscosity grade chart that shows the actual viscosity of the different engine and gear oil grades and see the similarities. A 40 grade engine oil is the rough viscosity equivalent of a 90 grade gear oil.
Anyway, I know a number of local farmers with tractors like ours (I have an '89 2810 Ford as my utility tractor, which is an evolution of yours) that use a GL5 80W90 grade in the final drive. The 3-point can be a little sluggish when cold (and the hydraulic pump likely bypasses on a really cold day until it warms up a bit). If you don't use it much in cold weather, it may not be an issue. If you have a power-beyond setup, with hydraulic remotes, the heavier oil may be problematic for hydraulic equipment used with it, but not unworkable in most situations, especially on warm days.
I believe the 2000 has a separate final drive housing that is used as the hydraulic reservoir, and the trans and power steering (if equipped) are each separate. The "134" is perfect for the final drive and hydraulics. I was fairly unhappy with it in mine in the trans. I put 75W90 synthetic in the trans and it radically improved the shifting (bear in mind I did it to use up some aging stock more than anything. I'm too much of a tightwad to do that on purpose( : < ). I don't currently have 134 in my power steering, but a generic fluid of the same viscosity and general characteristics.
In my long winded way, my bottom line recommendation is that if you have time and miles to get out of the oil that's in there now, I wouldn't get too excited about dumping it by tomorrow since it's obviously worked OK for all these years. Lots of people do it. When it's time to change, however, go with the 134 in the final drive and power steering. If the trans is separate, that too.
Anyway, I know a number of local farmers with tractors like ours (I have an '89 2810 Ford as my utility tractor, which is an evolution of yours) that use a GL5 80W90 grade in the final drive. The 3-point can be a little sluggish when cold (and the hydraulic pump likely bypasses on a really cold day until it warms up a bit). If you don't use it much in cold weather, it may not be an issue. If you have a power-beyond setup, with hydraulic remotes, the heavier oil may be problematic for hydraulic equipment used with it, but not unworkable in most situations, especially on warm days.
I believe the 2000 has a separate final drive housing that is used as the hydraulic reservoir, and the trans and power steering (if equipped) are each separate. The "134" is perfect for the final drive and hydraulics. I was fairly unhappy with it in mine in the trans. I put 75W90 synthetic in the trans and it radically improved the shifting (bear in mind I did it to use up some aging stock more than anything. I'm too much of a tightwad to do that on purpose( : < ). I don't currently have 134 in my power steering, but a generic fluid of the same viscosity and general characteristics.
In my long winded way, my bottom line recommendation is that if you have time and miles to get out of the oil that's in there now, I wouldn't get too excited about dumping it by tomorrow since it's obviously worked OK for all these years. Lots of people do it. When it's time to change, however, go with the 134 in the final drive and power steering. If the trans is separate, that too.
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