If I'm not mistaken, I believe Ralph's motorguard tapers the TP roll at one end. Also, the Frantz filter has a lock ring that you push onto the end of the roll that keeps it in the canister. As long as you use a tightly wound TP roll you should be fine.
TP filter depth
- Thread starter mjo
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Do any of the toilet paper style filters pinch the roll of paper tighter at one end of the roll? It would seem to me that they should. Most of the wound filters are wrapped tighter in the middle to create a more restrictive filter as the oil works it's way to the exit point. If the filter density is the same all the way there will not be as much "depth" to the filtration. I really like the idea of TP filters and would like some more info on this.
The Motor Guard is tapered top and bottom. As the TP is compressed by the Tee handle it expands inside the housing and makes a seal at the bottom and top of the outer surface and the core at the bottom.
The Motor Guard is the best designed of the TP filters but they do tend to pinch paper in the gasket as the TP expands inside the housing. This is not a problem is you don't use as over sized roll or a fluffy roll. TP filters depend on pressure to seal the roll properly. Motor Guards compress the roll about 1/2". The others depend on oil pressure. This is a problem with filtering fuel, ATF and coolant where there is low pressure.
Motor Guard started as a lube oil filter. As the demand increased as a one pass filter for industrial use the die cast aluminum housing was beefed up and epoxy coated inside and out. To bring them back as an oil filter I had to replace the internal parts with something that could take fuel and hot motor oil. At present I am using copper internal parts with a 1/16" orifice at the inlet. The orifice isn't needed when using a sandwich adapter with an in and out port.
Ralph
The Motor Guard is the best designed of the TP filters but they do tend to pinch paper in the gasket as the TP expands inside the housing. This is not a problem is you don't use as over sized roll or a fluffy roll. TP filters depend on pressure to seal the roll properly. Motor Guards compress the roll about 1/2". The others depend on oil pressure. This is a problem with filtering fuel, ATF and coolant where there is low pressure.
Motor Guard started as a lube oil filter. As the demand increased as a one pass filter for industrial use the die cast aluminum housing was beefed up and epoxy coated inside and out. To bring them back as an oil filter I had to replace the internal parts with something that could take fuel and hot motor oil. At present I am using copper internal parts with a 1/16" orifice at the inlet. The orifice isn't needed when using a sandwich adapter with an in and out port.
Ralph
I'm slightly confused here. The sandwich adaptors that I have seen do not appear to have any bypass capability so it looks to me like if a bypass filter with a flow restrictor was connected to the input/output of a sandwich adaptor and placed in between the engine block and the standard full flow filter, the oil flow would be restricted to what can come through the bypass filter. Surely I'm missing something here, this can't be right.
I am only using PermaCool sandwich adapters, but they do have a bypass valve that looks like a steel marble on a spring in a hole that looks to be about a quarter inch in diameter.
Many people drill a small hole in the adapter in addition to this to bypass more so the hoses and filter will see even less pressure. I drilled a one-eighth inch hole, but I think Ralph says to drill 7/32.
Even with the bypass valve and the drilled hole, all the oil must still go through the full flow filter, but the hoses and bypass filter have less pressure on them.
I would think that the best filter for the full flow in this setup would be one with the least restance to oil flow, not a restrictive one that cleans a little better (since it does very little cleaning) but I am not sure what type that would be.
Many people drill a small hole in the adapter in addition to this to bypass more so the hoses and filter will see even less pressure. I drilled a one-eighth inch hole, but I think Ralph says to drill 7/32.
Even with the bypass valve and the drilled hole, all the oil must still go through the full flow filter, but the hoses and bypass filter have less pressure on them.
I would think that the best filter for the full flow in this setup would be one with the least restance to oil flow, not a restrictive one that cleans a little better (since it does very little cleaning) but I am not sure what type that would be.
Some adapters don't have a relief valve because the relief valve is in the filter mount. If you use an adapter with no relief valve when the stock relief valve is in the mount you have converted the oil system to a straight bypass system such as a 53 Chevy.
Some will convert the system to a Ford type system by installing a Perma-Cool relief valve plug then installing a universal adapter that has the relief valve. Then they will install a filter on the adapter that has the relief valve in the filter such as a Ford or most non GM engines.
It's pretty simple once you look at it. If the oil can't get thru the cooler or oil filter in enough volume to keep the oil pressure up the oil must have another way to get to the engine. Normally the relief valve is large enough in a good engine. If the engine needs a higher than normal amount of oil such as with a large engine with bearing wear you need to help the relief valve by drilling the adapter.
If you drill the hole too large the Motor Guard won't heat up. If you have an oil pressure gauge and it reads good and the Motor Guard heats up it's working fine. Another rare problem is if the oil pump is so badly worn that it can't open the relief valve at idle. Of course the best fix is a new oil pump. GM relief valve plug 771-14845 in www.jegs.com catalog.
Ralph
Some will convert the system to a Ford type system by installing a Perma-Cool relief valve plug then installing a universal adapter that has the relief valve. Then they will install a filter on the adapter that has the relief valve in the filter such as a Ford or most non GM engines.
It's pretty simple once you look at it. If the oil can't get thru the cooler or oil filter in enough volume to keep the oil pressure up the oil must have another way to get to the engine. Normally the relief valve is large enough in a good engine. If the engine needs a higher than normal amount of oil such as with a large engine with bearing wear you need to help the relief valve by drilling the adapter.
If you drill the hole too large the Motor Guard won't heat up. If you have an oil pressure gauge and it reads good and the Motor Guard heats up it's working fine. Another rare problem is if the oil pump is so badly worn that it can't open the relief valve at idle. Of course the best fix is a new oil pump. GM relief valve plug 771-14845 in www.jegs.com catalog.
Ralph
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