Toyota ... warped rotors
- Thread starter PWMDMD
- Start date
2007 FJ w/237k miles and never a warped rotor.
Numerous prii and never a warped rotor, however, they're "brake by wire" and you can't feel much in the pedal. Could still feel it as a passenger if it happens, I suppose. Camrys and Corollas, neither. Maybe it's the floating FWD rotors they do well.
I run semi-metallic pads when I can. Feel they keep rotors cleaner from rust and probably bite better too. I don't plant my foot on the pedal on long lights and actually inch forward, to the annoyance of others, to prevent pad deposits.
I get the cheapie economy rotors from Rock Auto and generally change them on every brake job.
My GM cars, particularly Saturns, were another story.
I run semi-metallic pads when I can. Feel they keep rotors cleaner from rust and probably bite better too. I don't plant my foot on the pedal on long lights and actually inch forward, to the annoyance of others, to prevent pad deposits.
I get the cheapie economy rotors from Rock Auto and generally change them on every brake job.
My GM cars, particularly Saturns, were another story.
Isn't it always this?
I changed the title, @PWMDMD - if that’s what you intended.
As far as Tundra brakes, the OEM made it until about 25,000 for me and started pulsating. I switched to Hawk. The Hawk pads were a huge disappointment - so dirty and so rapidly wearing that they permanently marred one of the wheels with hot metal bits that embedded in the wheel finish. They made it less than 10,000 miles. They really were junk, despite the reputation they have.
Here is the defective pad - inside pad on the right front wheel. Notice the outer pad is fine. But that inside one was defective, and no, it wasn’t the calipers.
I went with EBC rotors and pads and they have been great. Smooth. Long lasting. A bit of dust, but I am fine with that as long as they stop the truck, particularly with a trailer.
As far as Tundra brakes, the OEM made it until about 25,000 for me and started pulsating. I switched to Hawk. The Hawk pads were a huge disappointment - so dirty and so rapidly wearing that they permanently marred one of the wheels with hot metal bits that embedded in the wheel finish. They made it less than 10,000 miles. They really were junk, despite the reputation they have.
Here is the defective pad - inside pad on the right front wheel. Notice the outer pad is fine. But that inside one was defective, and no, it wasn’t the calipers.
I went with EBC rotors and pads and they have been great. Smooth. Long lasting. A bit of dust, but I am fine with that as long as they stop the truck, particularly with a trailer.
I have driven about 500k in various different Toyotas. Tacoma’s, 4Runner’s, and Tundras mostly. My wife has had RAV4’s and a Highlander. I have never had a warped rotor on any of them. I only use OEM brake components.
The only problem I had was with a 2017 4Runner, it was burning up rear pads every 20k (both sides). Fronts would go well over 50k.
The only problem I had was with a 2017 4Runner, it was burning up rear pads every 20k (both sides). Fronts would go well over 50k.
Driving style influences this however other item is what kind of parts are being installed?
Wife’s 18 VW Tiguan got NAPA premium in a pinch instead of waiting for quality FCP auto (euro mail order) ones. They warped in 25k badly.
Wife’s 18 VW Tiguan got NAPA premium in a pinch instead of waiting for quality FCP auto (euro mail order) ones. They warped in 25k badly.
I can honestly say I haven't had a single hard stop in 10k miles on these brakes. I'm really gentle on the brakes and do mostly country road driving.
Thank you for changing the title! Brain moves faster than my fingers!
Thank you also for the recommendations. I'm a little bummed because with my past experience I'm REALLY easy on the brakes. No sudden stops, I downshift down long hills so I don't ride the brakes, and it's mostly really easy going back road/country road driving.
“A series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.”Just a gripe session because I'll likely have to live with high speed braking-induced steering wheel shake for another 40k miles.
Try that and I bet it will smooth things out!
I own multiple Toyota / Lexus over the long term. Never had this issue.
Are you using OEM parts? Or aftermarket (junk)?
Doing the full job correctly? Fitting kit, Toyota brake grease, anti squeal shims, prepping hub, etc. Bedding the brakes in after install?
Are you using OEM parts? Or aftermarket (junk)?
Doing the full job correctly? Fitting kit, Toyota brake grease, anti squeal shims, prepping hub, etc. Bedding the brakes in after install?
Only OEM parts and done by the dealership - they are actually cheaper than the Indy shops around me.
Same. I’ve been driving since 1979 and have owned a variety vehicle brands and have never had warped rotors and have done just pad slaps the whole time when needed.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
I found Pagid pads on the Sienna to be really good. They have a better feel than OE, bit of dust, but not excessive.
Already got front and rear set for Sequoia in anticipation of pulsating problem.
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I’ve done formula 1 shutdowns and never warped rotors. I had several Toyotas in the past maybe aftermarket junk or Toyota switched to a junk supplier.
Not shure?Boston Accent - North shore?
Use got waaaped rowers on that Ka there, buddy!
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I bought the 2006 LS430 used from Buick GMC. As part of the sale they redid the front brakes with Toyota OE (gave me all the boxes). The rears I did myself with premium Centrics (look identical except black, not gray hats).
Maybe now 65k later, slight pulsation. But it’s not warping. It’s the surface being unsmooth. I’ll use Centrics when I DIY. Toyota OE is way way way too expensive and not that much better. Rusts pretty quickly unlike GM and German OE imho
Maybe now 65k later, slight pulsation. But it’s not warping. It’s the surface being unsmooth. I’ll use Centrics when I DIY. Toyota OE is way way way too expensive and not that much better. Rusts pretty quickly unlike GM and German OE imho
Can you bed in brake discs once there has been pad deposition? I didn't think that was possible.“A series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.”
Try that and I bet it will smooth things out!
My ball and chain was taught to drive by her father. A truck driver. Since she was 22yrs old, I started maintaining her cars. We weren't even married yet. The 1st thing I would do is buy a set of rotors, pads, shoes, drums, oil, filter,,,,,,before I even started working on the car. She was an ANIMAL on that brake pedal. I put up with it for 27 yrs. Then I "snapped" one day. Just blew up all over her. Full out WAR !!! Now she drives like a little old lady. Matter of fact, the last brake job was just a " Pad Slap". That's how good the rotors still were. Now, I'm doin the happy dance 
You don't need a hard stop. A long hill where you use some brakes (giving you hot rotors) with a stop at the bottom (where you hold the pads against those hot rotors) would do the same thing.
I had a really long hill on my usual commute and geared down (manual transmissions) but still had lots of braking. I made sure not to stand on the brakes at the bottom. I let off the brakes a couple of feet before stopping (to release the pads) and then used the emergency brake to hold my position. That hill should have lead to pad deposition (ie "warped rotors") but using that strategy it never happened on 3 different cars, all having manual transmissions of course ('00 Toyota Solara, '00 BMW 528i, '07 Honda Accord). Not as easy to do with an automatic transmission.
A long hill with a stop at or shortly after the bottom anywhere on your drives could explain the problem.
And being really easy on the brakes may not be helping either. A few hard stops (with movement right afterwards) might even take off a bit of pad deposition. But once pad deposition has become entrenched I don't think anything other than machining the disc will take it off.
Thanks for the reply, although it leaves thinking, why do I have to put this much thought into stopping my vehicle? I just want to get in it and drive the thing.
