Toyota type-IV fluid

[m4gician]

Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
T-IV is only about $5 at the local Toyota dealer and it only takes 4 quarts for a drain-and-fill.


exactly, it's cheaper and it's approved for use in the AW transmissions and it DOESN'T harm them as it was the fluid the transmission is to use.

My volvo s40 has the same issue, and i've dealt with it by using mobil 3309 and flushing every 50k

 

[Eddie]

+2 use the approved T-VI or #3309 and not a "suitable for use...." if possible.

 

[unDummy]

Most of the 'suitable' ATFs that I've used seem to perform better then the T-IV.

Maximaguy, AWD adds weight to the vehicle. Extra weight=hotter running transmission. If you stick with the OE fluid, install a bigger transmission cooler.

 

[MaximaGuy]

I am definetly not pleased w/ what I drained and so are many others who posted in this thread.

My collegue at work has a 95 4Runner with 270K on original engine and transmission (even original shocks) speced to some dumb DexronII fluid. I drove it when we went out for lunch, man these were some marvels manufactured by Toyo, I cannot imagine my Highlander ever getting there, period.

 

[m4gician]

Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
Two Supertech ATFs meet T-IV, their Mercon V and Dexron VI formulations. Does anyone know which formulation more closely follows T-IV spec?
Jerry, I can't answer your question directly, but know this: my niece has an '06 Ford Fusion that uses the Aisin AW21F transaxle, which specs T-IV. I've read numerous reports on both Fusion forums and in Mazda forums (the Fusion is a badge-engineered Mazda) that say that mixing T-IV and Mercon V is a BIG no-no. Apparently the 2 don't play well together and can cause significant damage. Supposedly, you can do a complete fluid exchange to Mercon V and that works OK, but I'm not going to use someone else's car as a guinea pig. T-IV is only about $5 at the local Toyota dealer and it only takes 4 quarts for a drain-and-fill.


The reason I'm using an approved fluid is based on this reason (transmission failure) as this has been a problem with the 2001-2004 Volvo s40s (I drive one) and we've done our research.

Confirmed by Mobil, Toyota Type-iv, Volvo ATF, all of it is just manufactured/wholesale by Mobil and redistributed under each dealer's name plate (i.e. Audi, GM, Ford, Mazda, or any T-IV application).

Anyways, in Canada, most stores have recently started carrying 3309 so I've picked up jugs of that. It's great because now I don't have to barter with the dealer who charges outrageous prices for them ($8 a litre/bottle! with no discount). At least now, I can leverage the stupidity of stores and luck out on the pricing of the fluid.

Today I picked up 3 x 5L jugs at $5 each because of the retailing pricing laws here and improper signage on those jugs (usually $32 / 5L).

So I did a full flush and still have enough left over for another one, plus a drain and fill.

I use 3309 because it is the cheapest with no additives. I think there may be slight torque converter damage to it since the vehicle was in a front end, so I may try Auto RX, but it is just very slight that I think I can get away by doing drain and fills and full flushes every 30,000km and 50,000km respectively.

 

[RF Overlord]

Originally Posted By: m4gician
the dealer who charges outrageous prices for them ($8 a litre/bottle! with no discount).
You think that's bad? Ford gets $9.50/qt for their version of 3309! That's why I buy it from Toyota...

For once, our American prices are more outrageous than yours!

On a side note, maybe this is another reason American car companies are in such trouble...because they GOUGE people so badly on parts.

 

[Eddie]

Wish I could find #3309 here in the states.

 

[Kestas]

It's easily available at your Toyota dealer (Type T-IV) or check your local Mobil distributor.

 

[FusilliJerry82]

Well I've used Castrol Import MV in the car in question (2003 Camry) a few months ago with no problems. As a matter of fact, shifting was much improved though this would be expected after 87k without a change where the fluid was turning grey (its my father's car, so don't yell abuse!). The MV IIRC is "suitable" for T-IV but I would think its of better quality than Supertech. Thing is, the Supertech is cheaper, and I think this trans needs a few short change intervals (10k?) and I'd rather try to save.

The whole point may be moot for me with the surfacing of the Advance Auto $10 off $25 coupon. I've got no problem with getting 5 quarts of CIMV for the price of 3!

 

[edwardh1]

our yota dealer in charleston, so carolina charges $6.85 plus tx.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Most of the 'suitable' ATFs that I've used seem to perform better then the T-IV.

Maximaguy, AWD adds weight to the vehicle. Extra weight=hotter running transmission. If you stick with the OE fluid, install a bigger transmission cooler.


I could not have said it any better!! Personally,I think the Toyota fluid does not hold up well at all.I have recently switched to the Wolfs Head (Amalie)Full Synthetic multi purpose fluid,and my RX has never performed better!

 

[m4gician]

Hrm, hopefully we can get a 3309 approved synthetic alternative that performs a lot better....I'll be one of the first guys to try and put it in my transmission.

I'd need around 8L - 12L of the stuff so it'll be quite the investment if I do it.

 

[sunfire]

T-IV is just rebadged Mobil ATF 3309. Even Mobil themselves is saying their Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is a suitable replacement for T-IV.

Mobil is acknowledging the fact that a universal ATF can be using in place of T-IV.

 

[sunfire]

Originally Posted By: m4gician
hopefully we can get a 3309 approved synthetic alternative that performs a lot better


You will never find a "synthetic" ATF approved for T-IV or 3309. A spec that Mobil and AW cooked up and they won't or don't have any interest in licensing competing ATFs. Same goes for WS.

 

[Built_Well]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Bepperb, the transmission won't shift into 4th(OD)as it states in the owners manual(somewhere around pages 180, 181, 182) until the coolant temp reaches a predetermined setpoint. This I understand, is for emission reasons. The sooner the cold engine gets warm, the sooner it reaches the proper EPA emission requirements. Don't know that I said that right but, I think you all understand!


I wonder if that's why the '06 Camry has a high cold idle? (It sounds like for emissions reasons.) I don't like my engine revving that high right after cold startup, so I immediately put the shift selector into Drive while applying the brake. This slows down the revs by a lot--slower idle. I'm not doing anythig wrong by doing this, am I? I would think I'm protecting the engine since it's revving slower while the oil is still cold.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: Built_Well
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Bepperb, the transmission won't shift into 4th(OD)as it states in the owners manual(somewhere around pages 180, 181, 182) until the coolant temp reaches a predetermined setpoint. This I understand, is for emission reasons. The sooner the cold engine gets warm, the sooner it reaches the proper EPA emission requirements. Don't know that I said that right but, I think you all understand!


I wonder if that's why the '06 Camry has a high cold idle? (It sounds like for emissions reasons.) I don't like my engine revving that high right after cold startup, so I immediately put the shift selector into Drive while applying the brake. This slows down the revs by a lot--slower idle. I'm not doing anythig wrong by doing this, am I? I would think I'm protecting the engine since it's revving slower while the oil is still cold.


How high does it idle? My RX idles high as well in cooler temps.That I could live with,its the delayed shift points that I have a problem with (when its cold)

 

[Built_Well]

I've forgotten how high cold idle is. I'm estimating 1,600 rpm or so. When I select Drive, the revs immediately fall to about 800 to 1,000 rpm.

After the car has been driving a bit and it warms up, hot idle is usually between 650 and 800 rpm.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: Built_Well
I've forgotten how high cold idle is. I'm estimating 1,600 rpm or so. When I select Drive, the revs immediately fall to about 800 to 1,000 rpm.

After the car has been driving a bit and it warms up, hot idle is usually between 650 and 800 rpm.


That sounds about right.

 

[kazual]

I have been using Amalie Universal Synthetic and it works well for me. No problems in shifting at all, even when towing a small utility trailer from time to time with my 2005 RAV4 4WD.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: kazual
I have been using Amalie Universal Synthetic and it works well for me. No problems in shifting at all, even when towing a small utility trailer from time to time with my 2005 RAV4 4WD.


YES!! we have another Amalie/Wolfs Head user!!

I`m sure you will notice that the fluid appears to hold up better than the 3309.