Toyota OEM Oil in New 1ZZ-FE Engine

[alexiskai]

These are the results I got back from analysis on the original oil and original filter in my '03 Matrix that I changed at about 11,000 miles, if anyone's interested.

Sump: 3.2 Qts
Engine Size: 1.8L
Weight: 5W30

Wear Metals (ppm) -
Aluminum: 8
Chromium: 0
Copper: 26
Iron: 0
Lead: 3
Tin: 0
Silicon: 141
Potassium: 8
Sodium: 14

Physical Properties -
Water: less than 0.1
Oxidation: 39.8
Visc@100: 15.2
Glycol: -
Fuel: less than 2.0
Nitration: 33.7

Comments - "All engine wear rates normal. Silicon most likely from source other than dirt, possibly engine sealant (gasket material) and/or oil additive. High level of oxidation and nitration products detected. Suspect high operating temperature and/or over extended drain interval. Drain oil and change filter if not already done."

So to me this looks like a textbook example of used-up oil. Thickening up (a 5W30 with a 15.2 viscosity), high oxidation and nitration. Do you guys think the silicon is anything to worry about?

 

[Al]

Pretty amazing numbers considering its the first oil change in a new engine. I assume the silicon and coper are from sealants and gaskets/antisieze. I would check the air cleaner for tightness/dirt etc. But its obviously not all dirt or the wear metals would be higher. Like you said-turned into a 40 wt. oil.

 

[Pablo]

11,000 miles on the oil and 0 ppm Fe - THAT is amazing.

What is this oil?

 

[Jay]

Why did you let this oil go 11,000 miles before you changed it? (You did change it?) You must drive a lot of highway miles to have 11,000 on an '03. Was it special break-in oil?

Where's the rest of the spectrographic analysis?

 

[Greg]

man you let the oem oil go to 11,000 miles?

 

[alexiskai]

I took a 5,000 mile road trip and changed it right when I got back - put in RP Racing 21 and a bypass filter, so now I'm quite interested to see the next results.

That's the whole spectrographic analysis I got. Should there be more? I sent it to Global Technovations.

 

[Patman]

What is the approximate viscosity of the RP 21? Is that the one that is closer to 10w40, or the one that is 5w30? I always get the 21 and 41 confused.

 

[dragboat]

The 41 is the 40 wt,,21 is the 30wt

I like their race oils for the street better than the street oils for the street personally

That Si looks more like FE in the analysis unless the cylinder liners are made from Si or copper on that motor

Zero Fe with the OEM oil and those miles? Nahhh

[ November 24, 2002, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]

 

[PandaBear]

I am also wondering about the 0 ppm iron. Is this an all alumnium engine?

Aside from that this looks good, but I would recommend you not to change your oil so late next time. maybe 7.5k or 10k the most whichever your manual suggest. you don't want to void your warranty just yet.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

40% oxidation levels,
15.2 ... high 40wt viscosity
oil was well on it's way to becoming sludge. This oil was run well past it's limitation as an effective 30wt as it had started out to be.

 

[TooSlick]

I'd find another analysis company ....even a 3000 mile analysis on a well worn engine will show some iron in the analysis. I have tested too many Toyota engines to believe that you can go 11,000 miles in a new one and see no iron at all. Somebody messed up the analysis results or there is a typo where the iron level should go ....

 

[Greg]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Patman:
Is anyone else scared about owning a car with only a 3.2 quart oil capacity? That would keep me from buying one! My wife's Honda with it's tiny 1.6L holds 3.8 quarts according to the manual, but I put in 4.2 quarts (4L) and it reads just a few mm above the full line on the dipstick.

---

i usually slap 4L in my honda and it reads about 3-4mm above the top hole. i've gone about 2000 km on the oil and now it's down to right above the hole.

 

[Patman]

Is anyone else scared about owning a car with only a 3.2 quart oil capacity? That would keep me from buying one! My wife's Honda with it's tiny 1.6L holds 3.8 quarts according to the manual, but I put in 4.2 quarts (4L) and it reads just a few mm above the full line on the dipstick.

 

[Bror Jace]

I'm another who's questioning that ZERO iron value. The crank is either steel or cast iron ... and should show at least a couple parts per million. I mean, one in two or three VIRGIN oil analysis show 1 ppm of iron just from old pipes at the refinery. That zero value has to be a lab mistake of some sort.

For a couple better labs, see the two which have become sponsors of this site.

Patman, a small sump, even in the 3 quart range, doesn't really frighten me. But you do have to keep this in mind when deciding on an oil change interval. Each oil molecule is not only passed through the engine more often, it's also subjected to higher overall temperatures because it spends less time in the pan and more time actually circulating through the motor. So, thermal breakdown should be more of an issue.

Um, do Toyotas, overall, have small-ish sumps for their engine size/power rating?

That fact could contribute to them being tough on oil.

My Honda supposedly has a sump of 4 qts and a change amount of 3.5 quarts ... both measurements include the filter. If I jack up the driver's side so the tire is a good 12" off the garage floor, I can get nearly all the oil to drain out of the car ... I figure about 3.8 quarts because I can put almost 4 full quarts in the motor without over-filling the crankcase.

--- Bror Jace

PS - alexiskai, we all look forward to your Royal Purple analysis ... especially with a bypass filter.

 

[carl97ss]

Patman, our 5.7L engines only take @ 5qts. 5qts./5.7L=.877 qts/liter. 3.2qts / 1.8L= 1.778 qts/liter.....

 

[Patman]

Carl, I need to put in 5.5 quarts in my LT1 to get the dipstick to read full actually.

 

[Al]

Bror: Your point about sump capacity is missed by lots of folks. When you have an oil system of 3.5 to 4 quarts-keeping that sump full makes a difference in my opinion. My Sentra takes less than 4 quarts and I always have it maybe 1/8" over the full line.