Toyota Composite Oil Filter Cap STUCK - Any guidance?

Composite is a problem. The heat cycles contribute to the problem.
The composite filter is fine if it is installed correctly; that's a huge "if". And it's not only Quickie Lube techs overtighteninig them.
When it is stuck, the composite filter is far more likely to be damaged. Don't ask me how I know.

If you have access to a lift, you will be able to remove it or even break it apart. Another big "if".
The torque setting is 18 pound feet; that is far too easy to exceed.
This is a flawed design becasue it is too error prone.

Heck, even MotiveX redesigned their removal tool due to problems. They removed the slots that broke housing tabs and cracked filters. They resized the flutes for a more precise fit.
 
Again, it is Jiffy Lube problem. Not Toyota problem. Plastic filter caps have been used more than 30yrs.
Ya. Imagine all the complaining over cross-threaded aluminum caps.

On an aside form some reason It was easier to break suction and unscrew the filter cap if I had removed the oil fill cap first. *shrug*
 
For what it's worth, I service two vehicles with cartridge oil filters - a 2009 Mazda5 (since 2013) and a 2009 Kia Sedona (since 2016).

No problems with either over an estimated 40 oil changes in total.

The Kia filter sits upright on top of the engine, so there's no drain plug on it.

The Mazda filter hangs down from the bottom of the engine, and does have a drain plug in the filter housing. Removing the drain plug to drain the filter housing makes the job a lot neater.

No complaints with the plastic housing used on either vehicle.
 
For what it's worth, I service two vehicles with cartridge oil filters - a 2009 Mazda5 (since 2013) and a 2009 Kia Sedona (since 2016).

No problems with either over an estimated 40 oil changes in total.

The Kia filter sits upright on top of the engine, so there's no drain plug on it.

The Mazda filter hangs down from the bottom of the engine, and does have a drain plug in the filter housing. Removing the drain plug to drain the filter housing makes the job a lot neater.

No complaints with the plastic housing used on either vehicle.
I service a friend's 2015 Jeep GC with the turbo diesel V6. Plastic filter housing in on top and is super easy to service. Toyota's composite filter housing is the only one I have ever had trouble with. It's a bad design; too error prone.
 
Serviced my friends 2015 Corolla with the stupid composite oil filter cap. I am using the correct removal tool...
I had an extended 1/2 ratchet and even banged on it with a small sledge. Will not budge; I was afraid of breaking it so I left it.
I was also servicing the CVT; the car was not that high off the ground, but I had a lot of torque.
@The Critic advised me to get it up high and use an extension pipe.
I ordered an Amazon Dorman replacement; I will try again with a long Matco breaker bar. And who knows what else.
I've heard of using an impact, but not sure I'm that brave...

Gotta love those quickie lubes. At least that's my guess. Funny thing; the filter cap was installed crazy tight but the oil drain plug broke torque with my fingers when I was squaring up 14MM Snappy box. Wasn't leaking...
And guidance is appreciated, if you have run into this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Definitely was overtightened. I used to get the odd one like that when I worked in one of those quickie lube places. Some guys just don't have a feel for tightness.
 
Your friend should have taken it back to whoever changed his oil last.
We bought the car private party after his TSX was totaled. According to the records that came with it, it was a Quickie Lube service. My dear friend @edyvw would hardly be surprised. Sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do...
 
We bought the car private party after his TSX was totaled. According to the records that came with it, it was a Quickie Lube service. My dear friend @edyvw would hardly be surprised. Sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do...
It is not only quick lube joints. I had to use 2ft breaker bar to get the drain screw off on Honda Pilot after a dealership oil change.
 
I don't understand why they continue to use composite, (read cheap plastic), for these type of applications? Plastic, combined with motor oil equals sticking and seizing. Especially with a monkey at Jiffy Lube at the other end.

The plastic oil filler caps most all vehicles use are bad enough. All 3 of my vehicles have them, and even with cleaning and greasing the sealing surfaces and O-Rings, (which I do with every oil change), I still have to be cautious when I tighten them. I barely go 2 finger tight. Or else they're a bear to remove.

I can't imagine tightening mating plastic surfaces to almost 20 foot pounds. This has to be a common occurrence. I'm thankful all 3 of my cars utilize metallic, spin on oil filters.

They never should have gotten away from the old stamped metal, 1/4 turn on / off oil filler caps, with the cork or fiber sealing gasket. All they did was work...... Effortlessly. Now, it's yet another thing they've gone and, "improved".
My MB's you lube the O ring and hand tighten it. The O ring is what seals it, not tightness.
 
Understood. However plastic / composite / whatever, is more prone to seizing. Just ask Jeff.

He has become the BITOG expert on plastic oil filter caps..... And how to remove them without explosives.
More prone? How? BMW uses composite for 20+ years, and other than people putting the o-ring in the wrong place, or forgetting it altogether, there are no issues. So, what is more?
Again, the low wage does not excuse ignorance or lack of training.
 
More prone? How? BMW uses composite for 20+ years, and other than people putting the o-ring in the wrong place, or forgetting it altogether, there are no issues. So, what is more?
Again, the low wage does not excuse ignorance or lack of training.
I also somewhat blame the tool mfgs for giving us ridiculously long 3/8 ratchets and ridiculously powerful impact drivers….just gives lube techs more excuses to overtighten/break stuff.
 
It's a lousy design. Assuming every composite housing is also a bad design is missing the point.
An error prone design is a bad design in any product. World class engineering teaches us this tenant.
 
061EA235-9997-4F45-90AA-47B3217EABA0.jpg
 
Back
Top