Totaled? What do you think (smashed)

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SumpChump

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Upper Midwest by the Lakes USA
2013 Corolla 12k. Smashed. Not my fault. Perfect service history. Rotations. Pure TGMO 0W-20 adult driven. 24 months @ 6k miles every 12 months, garage kept, waxed one week ago. Bluetooth, touch screen center (not navigation). Average trade in across all "books" is $12k, current ones selling (which none have as few of miles are selling at $14 for 20k miles.

Totaled? What should I accept for value check? Is it productive to haggle with my company if they lowball?

6 panels affected, car twisted, doors wont open in rear from twist, underbody hit curb, t boned drivers side, tranny pushed in and down, fluids leaking , airbags deployed, column busted locked permanently on. Secondary hit on passenger side into concrete corner wall.

Pics... LINK to PICS 1 PICS group 2
 
LF wheel looks tweaked. I wouldn't want it back, I'd be too worried about factory corrosion precautions not be used when they fix metal--rust in bad places.

I'd HOPE for a total. With as much listed (airbags etc) I'd think it was. Especially for an older gen Corolla--repair costs exceed replacement value.
 
Here's a nice, slightly used one in your area that you might be interested in:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3944640/Brand_new_car,_car_fax_listed_#Post3944640
 
I would say totaled most likely.

It is HIGHLY unlikely that it is actually twisted in the bodyshop/frame rack guy sense the word though.

What does the shock tower look like under the hood...?
 
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
I would say totaled most likely.

It is HIGHLY unlikely that it is actually twisted in the bodyshop/frame rack guy sense the word though.

What does the shock tower look like under the hood...?


Couldnt open hood. But from standing on drivers side i'd say the strut tower mount is torn or bent badly. The pics dont do justice to how far in and down the whole drivers side. I wonder how theyd ever get a new stamped steel strut mount and whole front end in there.

Every bearing, tranny shaft, torque converter gap tolerances, even the crank is likey whacked out of place linear towards the passenger side. Whole drive train looks offset to the left. And the under carriage it the curb at traveling speed this likely the floor boards and center exhaust are cracked/bent up into its "cove" in the floor.

Basically a giant several thousand pound hammer tapped the whole front end sideways with the force flowing right through the drive train sideways.

It was like one of those corner partial overlap test hits that the is on NBC so often combined with a moving T- bone simultaneously.
 
Toyota's don't do hits very well... A Camry re-ended my wife's previous Jag. Most of the Toyota was spread across two lanes. Wife fired the Jag and drove it off the road. All door opened and the trunk was still able to open and close on the latch ...

Point being that the Toyota absorbed all the energy and saved everyone personal injury (
smile.gif
), but was useless afterward. Looks like yours is in the same boat ...

If the insurance company starts to hassle you, just mention you have made an appointment with your chiropractor about the ache in your shoulder. They'll happily settle with you quickly
smile.gif
 
It is hard to say for sure without seeing it, but there is a high likelihood it is totaled.

Your best bet is to make sure that the estimate writer sees all of the damage and correctly records the model and options as well as any aftermarket equipment.

If you are not happy with the offer, your then you will have to show the company why it isn't a fair offer, and remember just because some one advertises a car for 14,000.00 does not mean they will get 14,000.00 or that they won't take less.
 
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
It is hard to say for sure without seeing it, but there is a high likelihood it is totaled.

Your best bet is to make sure that the estimate writer sees all of the damage and correctly records the model and options as well as any aftermarket equipment.

If you are not happy with the offer, your then you will have to show the company why it isn't a fair offer, and remember just because some one advertises a car for 14,000.00 does not mean they will get 14,000.00 or that they won't take less.


Is the clean trade in "book" value across several books.
 
You normally get retail book value. You didn't mention the trim or the options it has, but if you look up nadaguide.com, you should be able to get the retail value.

But I'm glad someone in the pictures mentioned that it'll buff right out.
 
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
...
Is the clean trade in "book" value across several books.


Probably doesn't matter, just chill for long enough to see what the offer is and get a copy of the value report (or however they establish value).

Then you can decide what to do...
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Toyota's don't do hits very well... A Camry re-ended my wife's previous Jag. Most of the Toyota was spread across two lanes. Wife fired the Jag and drove it off the road. All door opened and the trunk was still able to open and close on the latch ...

Point being that the Toyota absorbed all the energy and saved everyone personal injury (
smile.gif
), but was useless afterward. Looks like yours is in the same boat ...

If the insurance company starts to hassle you, just mention you have made an appointment with your chiropractor about the ache in your shoulder. They'll happily settle with you quickly
smile.gif



Most recent cars will absorb a much bigger hit in the rear without too much damage, than they will in the front. The massive deformation is what keeps your body from breaking, so I will take it.

Getting the seat back hammered into you takes a lot more to hurt, than the jerk forward from the sudden stop, when you hit another car....Or anything else.
 
Last edited:
My insuror uses NADAguides.com retail value, plus title transfer fees and sales tax. That makes the values transparent to both of us.

Your insuror may differ on approach and valuation.
 
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