torque wrenches

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I often find myself working on my friends and relatives vehicles, Im pretty particular when it comes to torque specs(if one is stated) and my torque wrenches. Carrying them around in my Ranger poses a problem. I have the base model, work leather on the seats.(The material is slippery) The other day I had two of them on the seat,(in the case) I had to slam on the brakes, and there they go, flying off the seat and onto the floor. So now theyre off to Angle Repair (Again, i just got them back from them two months ago) in West Virginia to get calibrated and certified. What I found weird is I had a socket set on the seat along with the wrenches and that case didnt move at all when I hit the brakes. I was thinking of getting my buddy, whos a welder, to weld an aluminum box with eyes and straps in it that I could strap down all my torque wrenches in , and also put some sort of grip on the bottom of the box. My only option would be to put the box on the seat, single cab truck, limited space. Any other ideas?
 
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Why not place your torque wrenches in the space behind the seat where the fuel tank used to go? If you get in a roll over accident you probably don't want to get clobbered upside the head by a bunch of hand tools. I knew of someone that did a simple ditch job, didn't even roll over, his floor jack flew in through the rear window from the bed and hit him in the head and killed him.
 
Be careful of anything that can fly around in a moving vehicle. I've seen accidents that are caused by objects in cars moving unexpectedly, as well as injuries from unsecured objects that moved during a crash.

I'd get them into a case/container that you can bolt down, or seat belt in.
 
I'm not a professional, but since must torque specs are usually given as a range, are the wrenches really getting damage by what you described? When I did my head gasket, I was really concerned about proper torque, but when tightening things like seat belt anchor bolts, or car seats, brake bolts, I'll torque so I don't break/strip the bolts. With tires, I torque so they go on evenly and can be removed road side, if needed. Beam wrench are not a good choice if you can't see where the wrench is positioned. Beams work nice on the bench, not usable on exhaust bolts under the car.
Maybe you are over thinking, maybe I'm too causal. I mean, wouldn't torque also be temperature related?
 
I'm curious what kind of work you're doing for friends that would require a calibrated torque wrench.
 
Back when I had a single bench Dakota pickup, I bought a wedge shaped toolbox that fit perfectly behind the seat. It's no longer available, I've looked. But if you have access to a friend with a welder, you can have him build whatever you want, with custom made cradles for your torque wrenches.

Du-Ha makes organizers for everything but Rangers, but their site might give you some ideas.

http://www.du-ha.com/
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
I'm curious what kind of work you're doing for friends that would require a calibrated torque wrench.


I'm wondering that too. I'll only use one for internal engine work. I have a good feel for the tightness of a bolt or nut w/o a torque wrench. Never had a problem this way and have been doing mechanical work (both professionally and mostly as a hobby) for over 35 years.
 
But to answer your question, I would get a box or bag and wrap the wrench with an old t-shirt or foam, bubble wrap, etc. and store it behind your seat like someone suggested.
 
I torque things 99% of people wouldnt even think of torquing such as, thermostat housings, drain plugs, diff covers transmissions pans, things like that. Im very particular.
 
I think a good idea is, if you trust your torque wrench, is to, say, on a bolt specced for 20lb-ft is to set the TW at 15 then snug it by hand. It seems this will help you develop a feel for it if you need practice. I have a habit of over-torquing since I fear the part coming loose. I think this stems from removing oil filters by hand most of my life. I would tend to hammer down on things and even ham fist it. It also seems having a light weight and balanced ratchet may help.

I am trying to turn to wrenches instead of a socket wrench and sockets to get jobs done where I can. The ratchet has always been my main tool. In fact, if I do recall, my first purchase was a Husky 1/4" and 3/8" socket set when I as just out of high school. I may have bought car stereo tools around that time as well: wire pliers, stripper, and crimpers....
 
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