torque & impact wrench recommendations

[brad_d]

How much of a change do you consider "drastic"? The Young's moduli of most of the metals shown here vary by 2 or 3 percent over a temperature change of about 100degF. That's about as wide a temperature range as most of us will ever see when doing work. A change of 3% might be noticeable if you're really careful about checking, but most wrenches I've seen don't claim that degree of accuracy anyway.

I'd expect temperature to affect clicker-types in pretty much the same way. Doesn't it?

 

[XS650]

quote:

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Originally posted by brad_d:
How much of a change do you consider "drastic"? The Young's moduli of most of the metals shown here vary by 2 or 3 percent over a temperature change of about 100degF. That's about as wide a temperature range as most of us will ever see when doing work. A change of 3% might be noticeable if you're really careful about checking, but most wrenches I've seen don't claim that degree of accuracy anyway.

I'd expect temperature to affect clicker-types in pretty much the same way. Doesn't it?

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Nice chart! Youngs Modules for steel is more temperature sensitve that I thought it was, but still down in the noise level for a tool that's going to be held in someones hand.

 

[rpn453]

quote:

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Originally posted by brad_d:
How much of a change do you consider "drastic"? The Young's moduli of most of the metals shown here vary by 2 or 3 percent over a temperature change of about 100degF. That's about as wide a temperature range as most of us will ever see when doing work. A change of 3% might be noticeable if you're really careful about checking, but most wrenches I've seen don't claim that degree of accuracy anyway.

I'd expect temperature to affect clicker-types in pretty much the same way. Doesn't it?

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Thanks for the chart. I agree that 2 or 3% is not a concern in this application.

Clicker-types use a steel spring, so I think they'd be affected in the same way.

quote:

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Originally posted by XS650:
Youngs Modules for steel is more temperature sensitve that I thought it was, but still down in the noise level for a tool that's going to be held in someones hand.

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My thoughts exactly. I didn't think it could actually be entirely temperature-independent, but, since I've never seen a Young's Modulus value related to temperature before, I figured it must be a fairly minimal change.

 

[CMT]

As far as electric impacts go, I was looking at them also, and the Ridgid R6300 (search Home Depot site) seemed to be good at 450 ft lbs. But then again, the price is comparable to a good IR or CP air model with quite a bit more power if you already have a good air compressor.

 

[porcupine73]

Regarding air impacts, not to be neglected (if you use them) is the quick connect(QC) size. Originally I had 1/4" (very common) on my IR2131QT air impact; didn't seem to have much power. Switched to 3/8" QC's with 1/2"ID hose and it is a world of difference.

I usually have to turn down the power setting on the IR to lowest or one notch up now or it seems like it's going to rip out the stud and ask questions later.

 

[Donald]

Has anyone else noticed an increase in performance going to a larger hose and harger couplers? Was this a 1/2" wrench or a 3/4"?

How/where does one get a torque wrench calibrated?

I have a Craftsman clicker type that always gets backed off and goes back in its case and is never used to remove something tight, just to tighten.

 

[porcupine73]

Hi Donald. I have those Sears clicker torque wrenches too. The literature in the box says you can take it back to Sears for recalibration. My guess is they'd send it out someplace. I doubt it's cheap; I'd guess it has to be at least $30-$40 to have it done by the time shipping charges are on there and all. I see Sears has some sort of torque wrench calibrator in their master tool catalog but its like $999.

The impact wrench I mentioned is IR2131QT, which is a 1/2" wrench. With the 3/8"QC's I get much more power. I might have been able to get the same result by jumping up the pressure on my regulator but I didn't like that idea.

 

[Donald]

porcupine73 - what about if your 1/2" is not powerful enough one goes to a 3/4". My Dad gave me a 3/4" which is a monster.

 

[rpn453]

The IR 2135TI is, at 700 lb-ft, almost as powerful as most 3/4" impacts. Light too (3.95lb). It's the best 1/2" impact I've seen.

 

[04SpecV]

I got a IR 2132G composite from lowes.. 600 ft-lbs in reverse. Worked great taking lug nuts off so far. I had no probs using it with a 50ft 3/8 hose, (1) 1/4 quick connect.

 

[another Todd]

I have an IR 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 impacts. The 3/4 is no more powerful than the 1/2" UNLESS it gets lots of air, then it smokes the 1/2". The typical single stage 20-30 gallon air compressor will not supply enough air for a 3/4" impact regardless of hose size. The 3/4 needs a 1/2" hose, but a 1/2" impact works fine with a 3/8" hose.

 

[Touring5]

quote:

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Originally posted by 1sttruck:
Beam types are essentially lifetime calibration, make sure the pointer is on zero, while clickers can go out of cal quickly. If you get a clicker also buy a beam type to calibrate it. Craftsman beam types are about $20, I have a 0 to 150 ft/lbs and 0 to 50 ft/lbs in inch/lbs, and haven't picked up a clicker yet. though I might when they go on sale next time. Craftsman clickers are warranted for something like 90 days or 6 months.

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The part about using the beam to check the clicker is good advice. I have a cheap click-type from Harbor Freight, that clearly was not correct when I used it last time. I checked it against the Sears beam type and it was way off (triggered at a much lower torque). I adjusted the clicker to trigger at the desired reading indicated by the beam (the beam unit is too unwieldy for one particular fastener location).

 

[alreadygone]

quote:

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Originally posted by alreadygone:
Keep in mind that beam varies drasticaly with temp change. Only thing you can count on with beam is that all nuts tightened at same time will be the same tightness. Anybody's guess how close they are to specified setting.

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Feel that I may need to apologise for my ignorance. Have no formal education. Been pulling on the end of wrenches since I was 14 (37 yrs.) Only know what I've been told by good and better mechanics over the years (and tool salespeople). Only know I've three clicker torque wrenches. two Snapons that are used up to couple hundered times daily (on lugnuts, nothing else is acceptable) and a Matco that is kept in the tool box for occasional comparisons of all three to see if any one is out of calibration. Haven't been in several years now.

Sorry if my stated "fact" is just so much hillbilly myth.

Bob

 

[seotaji]

how exactly would one calibrate a clicker type torque wrench with a beam type? is there a socket that will connect the two?

thanks

 

[rpn453]

quote:

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Originally posted by alreadygone:
Sorry if my stated "fact" is just so much hillbilly myth.

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No problem. The discussion taught me something I hadn't learned!

 

[1sttruck]

"how exactly would one calibrate a clicker type torque wrench with a beam type? is there a socket that will connect the two?"

Regular socket on one, hex socket on the other.

 

[1sttruck]

'Hex' may be kind of all encompassing, so look for 'allen head' socket.