im due at 100k miles for coolant replacement on my Toyota Tacoma, the factory manual makes no mention of flushing the system only replacing the old coolant at 100k miles then 50k miles from then on. I have the factory fill SLLC from the factory and its never been touched or does it look funky visually. should I flush the system with a few gallons of distilled water or just drain and replace with new Toyota SLLC coolant, and call it good. I know a few ounces of old coolant remains in the heater core just draining and if I flush it will have a few ounces of distilled water left in the core, which way is better.
to flush or not to flush that is the question
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Easiest is to drain and measure how much fluid came out. Fill with distilled water and take for a drive with the heater on. You'll find a whole lot more than " a couple of oz " will still be in the block and heater core when you add the distilled water.
Drain again. Then you can either add distilled water again for one more drive, or stop there. Add 100% coolant until full. Go for a drive. Use an Antifreeze measuring tool to make sure you are at 50% coolant and water. Add 50% coolant/water or 100% coolant depending what the measuring tool indicated.
Drain again. Then you can either add distilled water again for one more drive, or stop there. Add 100% coolant until full. Go for a drive. Use an Antifreeze measuring tool to make sure you are at 50% coolant and water. Add 50% coolant/water or 100% coolant depending what the measuring tool indicated.
Drain thru the radiator's petcock, then refill with the Lisle funnel
Should be how-to's online that will say what a drain and fill requires.
IMO I'd drain the radiator and replace with whatever it requires, pink or red Toyota coolant. Red needs to be mixed, pink comes pre-mixed. Drain and fill. IMO it's not worthwhile to do the block drain. If worried, just do another drain and fill at 25k, or 40k, or whatever floats your boat. My opinion: drain and fill replenishes the corrosion inhibitors, and if a drain & fill only brings it up to 50-75% of new, if it had been worn out after 100k then D&F every 50k (or less) after that will be good enough.
IMO I'd drain the radiator and replace with whatever it requires, pink or red Toyota coolant. Red needs to be mixed, pink comes pre-mixed. Drain and fill. IMO it's not worthwhile to do the block drain. If worried, just do another drain and fill at 25k, or 40k, or whatever floats your boat. My opinion: drain and fill replenishes the corrosion inhibitors, and if a drain & fill only brings it up to 50-75% of new, if it had been worn out after 100k then D&F every 50k (or less) after that will be good enough.
SLLC is a premix so your choices are these. You can do a simple radiator d&f and shorten the service interval. That's the easiest.
You can do a complete system exchange with SLLC, however since it's premix that will require finding and using block drains after some distilled water radiator d&f's (after running engine to open t'stat) till drain water clear or close. The last distilled drain through the block drain(s). Then add SLLC to fill the entire system.
The last method with SLLC premix is to do some distilled water d&fs, then use SLLC, run to open t'stat, then check AF concentration with an AF tester/hydrometer. Then repeat to 50% concentration. However the obvious drawback to that, it' s wasteful of SLLC which is not cheap.
So my advice when using SLLC premix use the first method, shorten the interval some.
As noted Toyota does say 100k mile initial interval, then 50k thereafter with SLLC. What's less clear imo, is whether the 50k mile subsequent is with a complete system exchange or just a radiator d&f. I 'suspect' it's the former.
You can do a complete system exchange with SLLC, however since it's premix that will require finding and using block drains after some distilled water radiator d&f's (after running engine to open t'stat) till drain water clear or close. The last distilled drain through the block drain(s). Then add SLLC to fill the entire system.
The last method with SLLC premix is to do some distilled water d&fs, then use SLLC, run to open t'stat, then check AF concentration with an AF tester/hydrometer. Then repeat to 50% concentration. However the obvious drawback to that, it' s wasteful of SLLC which is not cheap.
So my advice when using SLLC premix use the first method, shorten the interval some.
As noted Toyota does say 100k mile initial interval, then 50k thereafter with SLLC. What's less clear imo, is whether the 50k mile subsequent is with a complete system exchange or just a radiator d&f. I 'suspect' it's the former.
Where there is an engine petcock, I always drain the block. And where accessible, I remove one end of the heater hose and insert a temporary hose with a flush tee to "back flush".
Concentrate is no longer available through Toyota, Toyota 50/50 is at $25/gallon! Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. Essentially it's free of silica and phosphates. I don't know any other differences.
Concentrate is no longer available through Toyota, Toyota 50/50 is at $25/gallon! Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. Essentially it's free of silica and phosphates. I don't know any other differences.
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Originally Posted by JLawrence08648
Concentrate is no longer available through Toyota, Toyota 50/50 is at $25/gallon! Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. Essentially it's free of silica and phosphates. I don't know any other differences.
Since when? I just got some recently at my local dealer for $21.95 a gallon, did the dealer say it was discontinued?
And if that is what you're paying for the pink 50/50 you should look for a different dealer, it is $18 at mine.
Concentrate is no longer available through Toyota, Toyota 50/50 is at $25/gallon! Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. Essentially it's free of silica and phosphates. I don't know any other differences.
Since when? I just got some recently at my local dealer for $21.95 a gallon, did the dealer say it was discontinued?
And if that is what you're paying for the pink 50/50 you should look for a different dealer, it is $18 at mine.
Quote
… Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. .
I would use Valvoline Asian Vehicle AF in place of SLLC in a Toyota with no hesitation. Like SLLC it's a long service interval Asian PHOAT AF, and same as Zerex Asian Formula. Comes in red/pink tint to match SLLC. Haven't priced SLLC lately, but at less than half the quote above, VAV an easy choice imo.
… Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. .
I would use Valvoline Asian Vehicle AF in place of SLLC in a Toyota with no hesitation. Like SLLC it's a long service interval Asian PHOAT AF, and same as Zerex Asian Formula. Comes in red/pink tint to match SLLC. Haven't priced SLLC lately, but at less than half the quote above, VAV an easy choice imo.
As they suggest using de-ionized water with the coolant for the proper mixture I have found it easier to do the following rather than using hard water from the hose or needing lots of de-ionized water on hand and mixing measuring jugs etc.
1) Drain the radiator (cold) and refill with the appropriate pre-mix coolant for your vehicle.
2) Empty and refill the over-flow bottle with new pre-mix.
3) Take it for a drive and let it get to operating temperature. Turn on the heat for a little while as well. (Fan doesn't need to be high, just have the heat on).
4) Park it, let it cool. Drain and refill the radiator again.
5) Take it for another drive to bleed the system.
6) Check your overflow bottle over the next couple of weeks and keep it topped up with pre-mix.
This usually replaces nearly all the coolant in a system with these 2 refills and no flush is necessary if the coolant being replaced was in fair condition when it was drained.
I just change my coolant in the radiator at 1/2 the interval that it's good for so that I always have enough fresh coolant in the system a whole exchange isn't necessary.
If the coolant was abused prior well that's a different story and a flush/fill is required, sometimes with a descaling treatment as well.
1) Drain the radiator (cold) and refill with the appropriate pre-mix coolant for your vehicle.
2) Empty and refill the over-flow bottle with new pre-mix.
3) Take it for a drive and let it get to operating temperature. Turn on the heat for a little while as well. (Fan doesn't need to be high, just have the heat on).
4) Park it, let it cool. Drain and refill the radiator again.
5) Take it for another drive to bleed the system.
6) Check your overflow bottle over the next couple of weeks and keep it topped up with pre-mix.
This usually replaces nearly all the coolant in a system with these 2 refills and no flush is necessary if the coolant being replaced was in fair condition when it was drained.
I just change my coolant in the radiator at 1/2 the interval that it's good for so that I always have enough fresh coolant in the system a whole exchange isn't necessary.
If the coolant was abused prior well that's a different story and a flush/fill is required, sometimes with a descaling treatment as well.
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the engine is the 2.7l 4 cylinder, I got the Toyota SLLC for $20 a jug on EBAY and don't want to waste any that stuff isn't cheap, I may just do the drain and fill method and at the 50k mile increments Flush with distilled water and use the cheaper ASIAN Valvoline or equivalent. also another option ive read is to drain rad. and block and leave the drains open and just pour the distilled water into the rad. and directly out into the catch pan WITHOUT running the engine, theres only a few ounces of old coolant left in the heater core that should mix with the majority of new coolant and dilute it to where it wont lead to any issues.
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if im reading this method right the radiator and engine block are getting flushed out http://toyotaradiatorexperts.com/radiators/?p=15
I have a 2.7 Toyota that i gave to my son and The 2.7 is a great engine.there is a drain on the side of the block . Drain the block and a petcock the radiator . Refill etc . Unless the coolant looks crudded up. rusty or muddy there in no need to flush it.
on a car that I have owned since new, a drain and fill is sufficient for me. thats what I did with my wife's yaris when it hit 100k. It didn't come out dirty, just a little darker than the new pink stuff. Now, on a car I wasn't the original owner or am switching antifreeze I do the flush. I flushed the Buick with distilled water and used fresh dexcool. I am going to flush the truck too because I think I am going to switch coolants. On the mazda, think I will just do a drain and fill.
I called the dealer
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by JLawrence08648
Concentrate is no longer available through Toyota, Toyota 50/50 is at $25/gallon! Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. Essentially it's free of silica and phosphates. I don't know any other differences.
Since when? I just got some recently at my local dealer for $21.95 a gallon, did the dealer say it was discontinued?
And if that is what you're paying for the pink 50/50 you should look for a different dealer, it is $18 at mine.
I called the dealer few weeks ago however last year or the year before they didn't have it. The Parts Dept told me Toyota discontinued it and they didn't know why.It
Because of your post, I'm going to call some other Toyota dealers. Thanks.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by JLawrence08648
Concentrate is no longer available through Toyota, Toyota 50/50 is at $25/gallon! Yesterday I bought Valvoline for Asian cars, Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, for $12/gallon at Wal-Mart. Essentially it's free of silica and phosphates. I don't know any other differences.
Since when? I just got some recently at my local dealer for $21.95 a gallon, did the dealer say it was discontinued?
And if that is what you're paying for the pink 50/50 you should look for a different dealer, it is $18 at mine.
I called the dealer few weeks ago however last year or the year before they didn't have it. The Parts Dept told me Toyota discontinued it and they didn't know why.It
Because of your post, I'm going to call some other Toyota dealers. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by E150GT
on a car that I have owned since new, a drain and fill is sufficient for me. thats what I did with my wife's yaris when it hit 100k. It didn't come out dirty, just a little darker than the new pink stuff. Now, on a car I wasn't the original owner or am switching antifreeze I do the flush. I flushed the Buick with distilled water and used fresh dexcool. I am going to flush the truck too because I think I am going to switch coolants. On the mazda, think I will just do a drain and fill.
this is how mine looks, not cruddy at all, just deeper looking pink, I think im going to call a few Toyota dealership service departments to see what they do at the 100k mark with coolant. like I said I cannot find any information from Toyota corp. on flushing the coolant system as part of required maintainence on drain and refill, these instructions I found on the FSM http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...m/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/01700210.pdf
on a car that I have owned since new, a drain and fill is sufficient for me. thats what I did with my wife's yaris when it hit 100k. It didn't come out dirty, just a little darker than the new pink stuff. Now, on a car I wasn't the original owner or am switching antifreeze I do the flush. I flushed the Buick with distilled water and used fresh dexcool. I am going to flush the truck too because I think I am going to switch coolants. On the mazda, think I will just do a drain and fill.
this is how mine looks, not cruddy at all, just deeper looking pink, I think im going to call a few Toyota dealership service departments to see what they do at the 100k mark with coolant. like I said I cannot find any information from Toyota corp. on flushing the coolant system as part of required maintainence on drain and refill, these instructions I found on the FSM http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...m/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/01700210.pdf
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I just called 2 Toyota dealers in my area one says no flush just a drain and refill for $100 the other says at 100k miles we recommend a full flush with our machine at 100k miles for $140 [censored]??? I cant even get an accurate concensus from Toyota service departments.
just called a 3rd Toyota dealership they say just a drain and refill is necessary cause the SLLC coolant is an enchanced antifreeze that can keep the system cleaned and waterpump lubed for longer periods than normal coolant can, and I also asked what is Toyota corps. position on the 100k coolant maintainence, they said its what ever the FSManual says to do which is drain and refill. and they would do the drain and refill for $90, to add the service person says if u have introduced any foreign coolant other than Toyota SLLC to the system or have used the vehicle in heavy duty situations than the system should be flushed at that point. and this service tech also said that they don't like to pressurize the system with a flushing machine which could in turn open a possibility of leaks.
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