Crackin' down on the members, hey Ruger?
tires, run them down or replace when worn?
- Thread starter sxg6
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Rubber will usually weather before the tires are legally worn out of tread to the 2/32" wear bars. As the tire ages, even by just sitting exposed to the elements, it will lose its chemistry and the tire compound will lose its grip. Tires also get many heatcycles (from freeway driving etc), further reducing the rubber's ability.
I would not have hesitated to put on new tires in your situation, especially the traction T/A, they are superb tires, just a hair under the RE950 from bridgestone. I'm sure if they were put on, your sis would notice a night and day diff from the half worn michelins. Maybe get em on for he anyways and say its a "happy november gift."
I would not have hesitated to put on new tires in your situation, especially the traction T/A, they are superb tires, just a hair under the RE950 from bridgestone. I'm sure if they were put on, your sis would notice a night and day diff from the half worn michelins. Maybe get em on for he anyways and say its a "happy november gift."
As it is, the MXV4 Plus sucks in the snow, even when new. And it's certainly not any better when it only has 1/4 of its tread remaining. They may be still OK to use during other three seasons, but for winter I would definitely put on a new set of tires with more tread.
Tires become very ineffective in snow when the tread depth gets below 4mm.
Tires become very ineffective in snow when the tread depth gets below 4mm.
sxg6 - just checking to see if im really as stupid as my dad/sister/mechanic/her boyfriend think.
Well let's see, you agree the tires can go another 50,000 miles, the guy who will get paid for changing them says they don't need changing, your Dad is there and leaves.
Maybe you are wrong.
Well let's see, you agree the tires can go another 50,000 miles, the guy who will get paid for changing them says they don't need changing, your Dad is there and leaves.
Maybe you are wrong.
get some steelies from a boneyard and put winter tyres on them. that is the only sensable thing to do.
If I had tires that were crappy and they had 50k left (on all four, if it were only the front or rear, I didn't rotate often enough), I'd still take em off and put new ones on. Remaining tread only means the tire still has life, not that they are any good, and some tires do suck.quote:
Originally posted by Ugly3:
sxg6 - just checking to see if im really as stupid as my dad/sister/mechanic/her boyfriend think.
Well let's see, you agree the tires can go another 50,000 miles, the guy who will get paid for changing them says they don't need changing, your Dad is there and leaves.
Maybe you are wrong.
What you can do is opt to not to pay the tire disposal fee, take the tires yourself and sell them to a used tire shop. Yout won't get a lot of money for them, but at least you got something, and more importantly, safer better tires.
Understeer was thought to be the "safer" of the two possibilities for a long time. The reasoning is that the car will hold the line just a bit longer (at a higher speed) before breaking into understeer, whereas it might experience oversteer earlier. However, understeer is more dangerous, because there is little that you can do besides stand on the brakes, turn the wheel and pray. Oversteer is remarkably easy to deal with (you're not going all the way around unless you don't know how to correct, which is really easy, and you shouldn't have a license without knowing it) by simply turning into the spin and applying some throttle if necessary.
The myth that oversteer is more dangerous has been perpetuated for a long time, but it is almost 100% patently false.
Remember:
Typically, you want to have your higher-treaded tires on your drive wheels, which would mean rear wheels on a RWD and front on a FWD... in an AWD car you need to pay attention to rotation so that you are getting fairly equal tread-wear.
FWIW.
For winter, unless you live in California, swap them out.There's still 10K left on my tires and its downright scary driving on wet roads.
I'm taking advantage of Goodyear's rebates and getting UG GW3s. Woohoo real winter tires!!
Not to be overly dramatic,but its stupid to save money on tires and end up crashed into a tree or dead in a ditch somewhere.
Speed Limit
2/32
And if the steels belts are showing unusually have the alignment checked.
Any respectable tire shop will gladly walk to your car and hand depth gauge your radials for you.
2/32
And if the steels belts are showing unusually have the alignment checked.
Any respectable tire shop will gladly walk to your car and hand depth gauge your radials for you.
So she'd rather drive through a CT winter on a set of worn tires than get a new set now for only the cost of installation? Penny wise, pound foolish imo.
mr
mr
Knowledge is good for you and me.
I always wondered why winter tires looked like 4x4 tires with Deep tread blocks..I learned something today !
Source=TireRack FAQs
If snow covered roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 6/32" of remaining tread depth to maintain good mobility. You need more tread depth in snow because your tires need to compress the snow in their grooves and release it as the they roll. If there isn't sufficient tread depth, the "bites" of snow your tires can take on each revolution will be reduced to "nibbles," and your vehicle's traction and mobility will be sacrificed. Because tread depth is such an important element for snow traction, winter tires usually start with noticeably deeper tread depths than typical All-Season or summer tires.
[ November 23, 2004, 12:17 AM: Message edited by: 98AV6 ]
I always wondered why winter tires looked like 4x4 tires with Deep tread blocks..I learned something today !
Source=TireRack FAQs
If snow covered roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 6/32" of remaining tread depth to maintain good mobility. You need more tread depth in snow because your tires need to compress the snow in their grooves and release it as the they roll. If there isn't sufficient tread depth, the "bites" of snow your tires can take on each revolution will be reduced to "nibbles," and your vehicle's traction and mobility will be sacrificed. Because tread depth is such an important element for snow traction, winter tires usually start with noticeably deeper tread depths than typical All-Season or summer tires.
[ November 23, 2004, 12:17 AM: Message edited by: 98AV6 ]
I am ignoring other threads and just saying what is on my mind. If you drive over 12k a year, on a FWD, buy 2 new tires every year (Nov or Dec) and put them on the front and rotate whatever set is 2nd best to rear. 80% of braking is in front and they wipe the water away from rear. What *** would want to be stuck in snow with their good tires on the rear of a FWD car? Maybe if you cut the wheel hard on the hwy in wet like an ***** better tires on rear is helpfull. I suck it up and put new tires on my mom's and wife's car when needed. Personally, I use 3 sets of all-seasons on rims. A nearly new set for winter, an intermediate set for spring and fall, and summer "smokers" that I abuse and burn on the hot summer pavment that kills new rubber. I never throw out a tire before I see belts and always have the tread I need for the time of year. Otherwise, I'd need a new set of 4 every year (quattro= 4 same tires)
I can't ever remember lacking traction on pavement with a FWD. True, I have gotten hung up a few times in snow so deep that all the weight was on the floor pan, in which case the tires make little difference. Good tires don't help a whole lot in loose gravel either.
As extensively as the advantages of better tires for better control on the rear have been discussed, it is obvious that more logic would be a waste. Although ABS or a skilled driver, should keep the unweighted back end from coming around, it does so by reducing the braking in the front. For either starting or stopping, the weight on FWD will compensate for all but the worst tires in the front.
As extensively as the advantages of better tires for better control on the rear have been discussed, it is obvious that more logic would be a waste. Although ABS or a skilled driver, should keep the unweighted back end from coming around, it does so by reducing the braking in the front. For either starting or stopping, the weight on FWD will compensate for all but the worst tires in the front.
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