Tip for cleaning sludge out of motor before swapping

[StevieC]

I'd remove as much sludge from the top and bottom of the engine manually by hand first and make sure the pick-up is clear or you might end up with a dead engine.

I'd fill the engine with regular oil and a new oil filter. Fire up the engine and once it's to temperature shut it down and add a solvent based flush product and idle the engine (don't rev it) for 10 minutes.
Drain the oil and change the filter and refill with fresh oil.

Keep OCI's very conservative for the next few changes.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Yikes!

If it can't be returned, I'd do some serious cleaning. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that one until I at least pulled the pan and camchain cover off to clean. I have to imagine the tensioners are not happy with that oil.

I almost wonder if it'd be worth pulling the plugs and dumping in some kero and spinning the crank with a drill?

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted by oldhp
I would call and explain time lapse, and ask for my money back. The way the top end looks.......wonder what the bearings look like??? Good Luck.


This first. Provide photos and documentation. You might also articulately state that if they do not take this engine back, you will be providing detailed reviews on Google and other review services about the sludge-pot they sent you as well as submiting a complaint to the BBB.

Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Good plan. Once you get it running you might want to add Rislone engine oil motor flush or a similar product and do early drains using cheap filters and tossing them with each drain.

If not, then I would skip a harsh flush and use Rislone Engine Treatment with a couple short OCI's. Then maybe start with using Rotella T5 10W-30 for a few changes after...

 

[KGMtech]

I agree that the seller was not aware of this sludge situation - unless there was evidence the valve covers were off before you got inside. If the price was right, proceed with a top and bottom cleaning - mechanically and with solvents. Then use regular dino oil with multiple changes in the first 1000 miles, change the oil filter after 300 miles. Cut open the oil filter to see how much sludge was collected, send pictures for us filter C&P fans!

 

[rideahorse]

This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.

 

[BigShug681]

Originally Posted by rideahorse
This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.

Sources please

 

[Driz]

Originally Posted by dishdude
Why would you even consider installing that engine?



Ughhhhh. Just what you said. I wouldn't buy anything expensive like that sight unseen unless it's a reputable company. Other than that I demand they are in punching distance when th money exchanges hands. Good luck brother, that's a ton of fudge you got there for an engine with nothing 🤨 major going on internally and 80K. I'd put a big drill on a half inch extension and comp test that before putting it in if it was me. That would be a good way to do the clean up as well. I'd also yank the pan if I saw all that spooge . Easy to do wth a cheap HF engine stand and well worth the effort if you see crud like that on top. At least then you🤞ðŸ»Hopefully know what you've got before going to all the hassle of installing.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by rideahorse
This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.

Nonsense. There is plenty of sludgers with far shorter intervals and non-sludgers with the 10K or longer OCI's. It's not the 1970's any longer.

 

[Ifixyawata]

Originally Posted by rideahorse
This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.


lol

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by rideahorse
This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.

I would say that is an example of what "might" happen following blanket statements. Or what neglect leads to. Nothing wrong with 10K OCI's in the right application under the right conditions, just don't follow blanket statements w/o a UOA or two to back them up.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by rideahorse
This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.

Here is my 1NZ-FE at 280,000 miles run on synthetic (mostly M1) with a 10,000 mile OCI. By your standard it should have been "junk" at nearly 1/3 the current miles.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...5/1nz-fe-under-valve-cover-280-000-miles

To be honest I don't even remember when any of my cars had only 100,000 miles. It was a long time ago.

 

[Dufus2]

How did you pay? Debit card? Credit card?
Most Credit card companies offer buyer protection beyond the 60 day transaction requirement (the BullHockey from PayPal/eBay). Give them a call if the merchandise is unreasonable.
If you paid with a debit card, you may be out of luck.

You can use a parts brush with penetrating oil, ATF, and other cleaners to break down the coked up crud.

I would run the engine with HDEO and dilute it with MMO. Here is my reasoning: HDEO is a high detergent developed to carry away soot and other contamination. MMO is a very good solvent and micro lubricant that will dissolve that crud over time.

I had sludge like this in a differential and added 4-oz MMO for every QT of gear oil, drove the vehicle about 1K miles. When I pulled the cover, the heavy deposits would wipe off with a paper towel. The MMO really cleaned up the sludge with very little effort or expense.

I use MMO is P/S and the crankcase before changing the fluids, its always cleaner. Just allow it to work for at least two weeks before changing the oil.

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted by rideahorse
This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.


No, if you run synthetic at 10K this won't happen. It is likely a head gasket leak or someone running dino for 20k or not changing at all.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by PandaBear
Originally Posted by rideahorse
This is exactly what the industry is causing by telling the public that they can run syn oil on 10,000 oil changes or longer. They are helping the car industry to make throw away cars because they are junk at 100,000 miles.


No, if you run synthetic at 10K this probably won't happen. It is likely a head gasket leak or someone running dino for 20k or not changing at all.


Fixed it for you....known sludgers excluded. And the 4.7 (certain years) is among the known sludgers...

I'm betting this 4.7 was neglected and OP will have it right in...about 3000 miles.

 

[Snagglefoot]

So what's " the end of the story" here?