02 Camry (100k)and 02 Carvan (130k). Should I replace the PCV valve on both rigs? Wouldn't hurt would it? I was just trying to think of some cheap quick replacements. Both are running fine.
Take the hose off the hose and run some brake cleaner through it to clean out any oil residue. You can do the same with the PCV's on vehicles equipped with them, then I follow up with a good penetrating fluid and put it back in the car.
The 3.3 in your dodge is a great engine and you can't kill it easily.
I have never once seen one stop working, clog up what have you... I also think it's a huge waste of money replacing a perfectly good working part that does not filter anything, and it either works or doesn't and is easily cleaned. Make sure you use a mild brake cleaner as to not damage any of the plastic etc.. the gunk inside is fairly easy to flush out.
I changed PCV in the LS400 at around 200K miles. My mechanic kept telling the OEM PCV was working no need to change, I bought a Fram PCV asked him to change it, he showed me the OEM was working and no sludge in the PCV. I should not change it.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I changed PCV in the LS400 at around 200K miles. My mechanic kept telling the OEM PCV was working no need to change, I bought a Fram PCV asked him to change it, he showed me the OEM was working and no sludge in the PCV. I should not change it.
Best to stick with OE when it comes to PCV valves.
I wish I could change my PCV as easy as some on here. I have to remove the throttle body and intake manifold to replace mine. I'll probably just have the dealer do it at 100k along with the hose and be done with it.
It's such a pain on the 351 in my '96 bronco that I'll probably never worry about it. It's between the intake runner and the firewall and it's held in by a worm gear hose clamp.
Completely agree. A bad PCV valve can result in engine sludge. I should know since I suspect I had a bad valve on a Ford 4.0L SOHC motor which I am treating for sludge right now. Initially bought a Fram from Advanced and either Fram or Advanced has the wrong part # in their system. Went to AutoZone and they carry Champion which matched the OEM perfectly. Fram was $3 and did not fit. Champion $7 and it fits. I would replace or clean every 40K - 50K. More frequently on older vehicles.
Well I'm glad I'm not the only one who has a bronco with a 351 and decided it wasn't worth it! I just got the truck a few months ago and bought some standard tune up stuff at the store, including a pcv valve. When I finally figured out where it was I decided not to mess with it.. Its running fine..
I just replaced my Infiniti PCV valve at 100k because suddenly i was burning lots of oil. It still rattled, but would not seal. Tried cleaning it, would not seal. The floating center piece had broken. I guess that is better than my wifes. Her Old Audi 1.8t the complex PCV system failed at 40k - just out of warranty. The main PCV valve stuck shut, some other check valves melted and turbo pressure pressurized the crankcase and made oil leak out of every seal. After about $800 in parts it was good until it failed again at 65k. That was a car that you should really pull the intake manfold off to replace the pcv valve. The dealer wanted almost $2,000 to do the first job. Needless to say I did it myself both times. We sold it shortly after the second PCV valve failure and second set of replacement gaskets for the whole engine.