The truth

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Originally Posted By: dparm
Tell her to stop letting the car warm up. Pollutes horribly, dilutes the oil, and accelerates wear. Start it up, wait a few seconds, then drive off slowly.


really.....u think in -40 waiting a few seconds will not cause accelerated wear? LOL...way more wear occurs when driving off with a cold engine. I love people who think this.
 
Tell her to let the car idle unmolested for 30 seconds or more at cold start then drive off slowly. Starting and driving off immediately pollutes horribly, dilutes the oil, and accelerate wear. Modern cars are in cat light-off/pollution control mode for about 25 seconds at 68F...Leave the car alone til it's done.
 
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Originally Posted By: domer10
really.....u think in -40 waiting a few seconds will not cause accelerated wear? LOL...

The OP is NY. How often does the temp drop to -40 there?

Quote:

way more wear occurs when driving off with a cold engine.

Got a link to confirm this?
 
Well I just find it weird that if you read any synthetic oil bottle it will always say that there synthetic oil is superior to there own conventional oil in test. Quaker State Ultimate Durability vs Quaker State Conventional. Whether its in cleaning or against wear they always claim the synthetic is better. Now I know oil companies are out to make money and they tend to claim to be the best whether its mobil. shell or Castrol. But right on the back of the bottle theres always a claim of this test or that test and its always compaired to the conventional they sell.
 
ps is the noack number for Pennzoil Conventional and Quaker State Conventional right on pqia. Its better then the noack number for the syn kind.
 
Originally Posted By: waltywalt
ps is the noack number for Pennzoil Conventional and Quaker State Conventional right on pqia. Its better then the noack number for the syn kind.


A single tested bottle is not representative of the whole population. That is akin to taking one American and one Canadian and saying that Americans are smarter because that person got a better score on the IQ test. A single person is not representative of a country nor is one test always a good indicator of intelligence.

Listen, the answer is: IT DEPENDS.

If you want to label something as "better" you have to qualify that defines "better". What are the conditions, what are the metrics? Are we factoring in cost or are we looking for froghairs? Otherwise, it will go around in circles. Conventional oils are good and are better than their predecessors (and often part-syn anyway). Syns still do a lot better under extreme conditions and offer a bigger window of performance/protection. As to which is better, you have to define what is to be considered "better" and then we can debate it. Otherwise, it is like debating the quality of the weather... as warm and humid summers day in the south is "tolerable" for me but "intolerable" for you. We need metrics.

The "Yes/No" answer does not exist.

Oh, and a guy from Arizona might be better at understanding cold stars, as place does little/nothing for knowledge. "Warming" up a vehicle is more for the driver than the mechanical components. Any "use of fuel" while stationary is going to be the biggest polluter/waste, so basically if the vehicle starts, start driving (and amend your driving style accordingly to the conditions).
 
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Originally Posted By: waltywalt
Well I just find it weird that if you read any synthetic oil bottle it will always say that there synthetic oil is superior to there own conventional oil in test. Quaker State Ultimate Durability vs Quaker State Conventional. Whether its in cleaning or against wear they always claim the synthetic is better. Now I know oil companies are out to make money and they tend to claim to be the best whether its mobil. shell or Castrol. But right on the back of the bottle theres always a claim of this test or that test and its always compaired to the conventional they sell.



It's marketing plain and simple.
If your getting significant fuel dilution it doesn't matter whether your using a syn or a conventional because the end result is the same. Syns don't resist fuel dilution any better than mineral oils do,so if that's your biggest concern a syn isn't helping.
As far as valve deposits lest we forget that mineral oils dissolve deposits better than syns although they also contribute more however deposit formation comes once the tbn is depleted and the oil can no longer disperse any more into itself.
I suggest a 10w30 hdeo and be done with it.
 
Originally Posted By: waltywalt
I Always use ....
I wanna know the truth. Does synthetic oil protect my motor better then dino.


IF there were EVER a better place to say this I don't know it...
...you can't HANDLE the truth...
laugh.gif


It's just too darn complicated, that's why......no that's not it...it's just too darn SIMPLE, that's why...no...complicated, no simple, no compli.....
 
Don't know why no one mentioned synthetic blend? DEXOS rated oil is good, a lot of GM cars are DI now, and it does a good job.

It is a compromise between synthetic and conventional, may be just right in your case.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Fuel diluted PCMO is fuel diluted PCMO. Go ahead use synthetic if the warm buzzy feeling using synthetics use them.


Yes, but synthetic should hold up better in those circumstances.
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Fuel diluted PCMO is fuel diluted PCMO. Go ahead use synthetic if the warm buzzy feeling using synthetics use them.


Yes, but synthetic should hold up better in those circumstances.


Oh please do elaborate on how a synthetic will hold up better when a detergent is added to it with no lubricating properties and that lowers its HT/HS viscosity.
What particular properties of synthetic oil will do such a thing?
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Fuel diluted PCMO is fuel diluted PCMO. Go ahead use synthetic if the warm buzzy feeling using synthetics use them.


Yes, but synthetic should hold up better in those circumstances.


Oh please do elaborate on how a synthetic will hold up better when a detergent is added to it with no lubricating properties and that lowers its HT/HS viscosity.
What particular properties of synthetic oil will do such a thing?



Agreed I don't know why people assume just because the oil is synthetic it'll respond any different to fuel dilution etc.
 
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