The Right Oil For Lexus

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I’ve been browsing a lot here but couldn’t find the answer that I need. This is for a SC300 and an RX300 and both cars do not consume or leak any oil. The manual calls for 5W-30 API SH Energy Conserving II or SJ Energy Conserving multigrade engine oil or ILSAC multigrade engine oil. I already know that I should go with 5W-30 oil but I am not sure about the importance of TYPE II or type III or SJ and SH. I’m currently running Castrol GTX. Here is what I found from the oil websites whose products that I would like to use but I really want to try Pennzoil Yellow Bottle because it is will received here in BITOG. Castrol GTX - SAE 5W-30 exceeds API Service SM, SL SJ and SH as well as exceeding all the requirements of ILSAC FG-3/GF-2 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils nd meets Energy Conseving Standards. Pennzoil Yellow Bottle – SAE 5W-30 API Service SM, ILSAC GF-4- Meets or exceeds API SM Service Classification (all grades). Exceeds ILSAC GF-4, GF 3 and GF 2 requirements. Valvoline Maxlife – SAE 5W-30. MaxLife is formulated with extra anti-wear additives to exceed the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 and GF-4, and API SL/SM standards and is safe for use in new and rebuilt engines, and will not void new car warranties. Thanks in advance.
 
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Two different engines, I believe. Do they have the same oil spec from Lexus? API SH/SJ is an outdated spec, superceded by the current API SM. Since motor oils are backward compatible, you can use any current product without issues. ILSAC GF-4 is an energy-conserving, "fuel economy" spec but it'll be fine for use in your cars, as will GF-3 spec'd oils. No worries there. My suggestion is to use whatever brand you're most comfortable with and what fits your budget. Any of the three you chose will be fine for your needs.
 
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Personally in your RX300 I would use a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Those engines are known to sludge(1MZ-FE) because they tend to run a little hot. I have a ES330 and I use Pennzoil Platinum with great results.
 

kits73

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Thanks deven-I have heard a lot of good things about Pennzoil Platinum. That's someting that I would consider for the RX engine.
 
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In the RX, I'd use a syn or at least a 5000 mile OCI. In the SC any oil will do. 5w-30 in both. Chicago is a cold place, and cold weather performance isn't one of GTX's strengths, but it's otherwise a fine oil. All you'll find now is SM oil, which are all pretty good. PYB and Maxlife are both fine examples.
 

kits73

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I'm torn between PP and YB. I know my engine is one of those that are prone to produce sludge and it has 74k miles with no leaks. I really like to try the PP but all my engine has ever had is conventional oil. Should I be worried?
 
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 Originally Posted By: kits73
I'm torn between PP and YB. I know my engine is one of those that are prone to produce sludge and it has 74k miles with no leaks. I really like to try the PP but all my engine has ever had is conventional oil. Should I be worried?
Worried, no. Concerned maybe. You got good responses to your questions, YB and PP are both great oils. That 1MZ-FE in the RX300 however is a potential issue. I'd do a lot of reading - amsoil.com for one source, to get the OCI and type of oil to address that sludge potential. The "Search" here will bring you a lot of material and threads with active users of that engine. Including me. A pure synthetic and a 5k OCI is the way I've successfully handled the threat, but to each his own. Auto-Rx.com will be mentioned a lot too in your readings I expect.
 
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My daughter had a 99 RX300. I changed the oil for her and used M1 10-30, 10,000OCIs and it seemed to work great. She traded it in with 90,000 miles. Hardest oil filter to replace on this or any other planet. First time I changed it took me one full hour to get it done.
 

PT1

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 Originally Posted By: Johnny
 Originally Posted By: ctc
Oil opinions are like aholes :).
And it's a good thing I only have one of each.
FWIW to the OP...I have had excellent results and no sludge issues with an RX330 and PP 5w30.
 

PT1

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 Originally Posted By: kits73
I'm torn between PP and YB. I know my engine is one of those that are prone to produce sludge and it has 74k miles with no leaks. I really like to try the PP but all my engine has ever had is conventional oil. Should I be worried?
No, PP & 5000 OCI's will take you past 200k easy. Just pay attention to the timing belt replacement and get the RX trans flushed before 100k.
 
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 Originally Posted By: kits73
I'm torn between PP and YB. I know my engine is one of those that are prone to produce sludge and it has 74k miles with no leaks. I really like to try the PP but all my engine has ever had is conventional oil. Should I be worried?
I had a 98 Camry V6 for 11 years and ran M1 5W-30. Engine ran perfectly until the day I sold it. I would definitely recommend a synthetic for that engine. Even Walmart SuperTech synthetic would be a big help. If you are concerned about switching to a synthetic at 74K miles, then I would recommend you make your own synthetic blend to start out with. Maybe 2 quarts of PP and 3 quarts of YB, and then work up to 5 quarts of PP if there are no problems.
 
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 Originally Posted By: kits73
True about the oil filter tig1. I purchased a filter cap wrench and that solved the problem.
Me to. Also a 1 inch extension and a swivel head ratchet. I sure was glad when she sold that car.
 

PT1

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 Originally Posted By: tig1
 Originally Posted By: kits73
True about the oil filter tig1. I purchased a filter cap wrench and that solved the problem.
Me to. Also a 1 inch extension and a swivel head ratchet. I sure was glad when she sold that car.
My Harley TC88 steel oil filter cap wrench & a stubby 5" swivel head ratchet makes very short work of the RX300 or RX330 oil filter removal. I can change one without even looking at it just by feel because the HD cap wrench fits snug over the filter but pulls right off easily.
 

kits73

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Some people reverse the postion of the horn to the other side to make the RX300 filter more accessible. Went to WM last night and saw one last 5w30 5qt jug of PP on the shelf hidden behind the 10w30's. This makes my decision making much easier..
 

PT1

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 Originally Posted By: kits73
Some people reverse the postion of the horn to the other side to make the RX300 filter more accessible. Went to WM last night and saw one last 5w30 5qt jug of PP on the shelf hidden behind the 10w30's. This makes my decision making much easier..
On the RX330 you take off the plastic front underpanel (6 screws) and it is right there. Even has a built in oil filter drain catch which routes the used oil into your collection pan. I was going to attach a piece of clear tubing to the oil catch and drill a hole in the plastic pan to make it even easier but traded it in on a new Rav4 for my daughter.
 
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 Originally Posted By: tig1
Hardest oil filter to replace on this or any other planet. First time I changed it took me one full hour to get it done.
I haven't had that privilege. My worst was a 97 Nissan HB pickup. Could barely see it from top or bottom.
 
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I have found that by using a larger filter,I.E K&N 2009,you can wait till the motor cools down a little (drain the oil hot)and easily access the filter from under the hood.Beats undoing all of the bolts to get that plastic cover underneath off.
 
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