Thanks to BITOG for battery

[patel]

As My Old battery had almost four years and I was looking for new best battery. As search button helps me as COSTCO kirkland battery with high CCA is better which cost me $63. I bought 1000 CCA but manual says only 680 CCA. My old battery had 800 CCA.

COSTCO has 3 yr replacement and 100 month warrenty.

All I did two weeks ago, Clean terminal and apply grease to screw and charge for 4 hrs with trickle charge because I had not strong crank to my car with that battery.

DID I anything wrong? I thought old Battery will be good my for coming winter.

 

[tmorris1]

I'm having a hard time understanding what you did. Did you buy a battery or just clean the terminals?

 

[Ray H]

I'd be willing to bet that the majority of OEM batteries are just good enough to last the typical 3 year OEM battery warranty period and not a whole lot more. If you got nearly 4 years from the original battery, you're ahead of the game. Summer air-conditioning demands probably finished it off - especially if you're stuck in stop-and-go city traffic or freeway gridlock with any regularity. An illinois winter wouldn't have been a picnic for the old battery, either. (If you think replacing a battery in summer heat is a nuisance, try it when your fingers are freezing to the bone!) Buying 1,000 CCAs was NOT a mistake.

 

[patel]

quote:

---

Originally posted by tmorris1:
I'm having a hard time understanding what you did. Did you buy a battery or just clean the terminals?

---

I cleaned my battery terminal and put grease and put tickle charge for 4 hrs. But after two week battery died withought any warning. SO I had to go COSTCO and bought kirkland battery with 1000 CCA which was about $60..................

Sorry about confusion.

 

[patel]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ray H:
I'd be willing to bet that the majority of OEM batteries are just good enough to last the typical 3 year OEM battery warranty period and not a whole lot more. If you got nearly 4 years from the original battery, you're ahead of the game. Summer air-conditioning demands probably finished it off - especially if you're stuck in stop-and-go city traffic or freeway gridlock with any regularity. An illinois winter wouldn't have been a picnic for the old battery, either. (If you think replacing a battery in summer heat is a nuisance, try it when your fingers are freezing to the bone!) Buying 1,000 CCAs was NOT a mistake.

---

Well My old battery was from local store "Farm and Fleet" BRAND. It got my almost 4 yrs. But My question was I could get may be more time If I did not put grease on thread of the terminals of wire................

 

[patel]

I searched on consumer report on yahoo and it says
Buying more CCA than need can lead to short life because of battery is more fragile.

Yahoo Consumer guide . Other factors being equal, batteries with a higher CCA often cost more but are more fragile, resulting in a shorter life.

 

[Ray H]

The "increased fragility" of high capacity batteries is circumspect. It is possible to design the grids and insulators for strength AND thin spacing. A conventional lead-acid battery is just as likely to suffer internal shorting from clamping it too tightly with the hooked threaded studs that attach to the battery support plate. (Mechanically stressing the plastic case with the hold-down clamps will warp it.) Greasing the terminals is generally a good idea to ward off corrosion in my opinion and experience. It could also be argued that your "Farm and Fleet" brand battery wouldn't have lasted as long as it did had you not taken the step to grease the terminals.

 

[Ray H]

Well, then, patel, I guess our opinions on the advisability of protecting battery terminal connections with a layer of calcium soap-based chassis grease, and the alleged fragility of high cold cranking current designs differ, eh? Good luck with your new battery, my skeptical friend.

 

[patel]

Thanks for reply RAY
Appreciated......
I also had some grease on thread of terminal because I had it two weekd before. I did just leave it on. Next summer I will grease again.

 

[patel]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ray H:
The "increased fragility" of high capacity batteries is circumspect. It is possible to design the grids and insulators for strength AND thin spacing. A conventional lead-acid battery is just as likely to suffer internal shorting from clamping it too tightly with the hooked threaded studs that attach to the battery support plate. (Mechanically stressing the plastic case with the hold-down clamps will warp it.) Greasing the terminals is generally a good idea to ward off corrosion in my opinion and experience. It could also be argued that your "Farm and Fleet" brand battery wouldn't have lasted as long as it did had you not taken the step to grease the terminals.

---

In 4 yr I never touch my old battery. But reading this forum, I did put grease on thread of posotive and negative cable screw........

 

[Jelly]

I've found the best solution to keep your battery clean are the .99 cent red and green pads.

Work great!

 

[Russ]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jelly:
I've found the best solution to keep your battery clean are the .99 cent red and green pads.

Work great!

---

Yep, sure seems like it.

 

[Jim Spahr]

Those red and green felt discs may help a regular post type battery, but the GM style side terminals need help too. In fact, they probably are more prone to hidden corrosion than the top post style batteries. When applying any grease, you need to be aware of insulating or reducing conductivity. That's good on the out side but not inline.

 

[patel]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jim Spahr:
Those red and green felt discs may help a regular post type battery, but the GM style side terminals need help too. In fact, they probably are more prone to hidden corrosion than the top post style batteries. When applying any grease, you need to be aware of insulating or reducing conductivity. That's good on the out side but not inline.

---

Good that I apply Grease outside but not inline.
Thanks guys