Interested in a new beater to drive and I'm tired of throwing money at the Volvo. Found a 93 Honda wagon with 244k and will be test driving tomorrow. Are there known issues with this model, what to look for? Thanks.
Test driving a 93 Accord tomorrow,what to look for
- Thread starter Brandon Gatz
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Not too much
Note the feel of shifting, a overall fluid refresh is probably a given should you buy.
Listen and feel the steering, creaky suspension bushings or ball joints can happen.
Feel, look at the lights on the dash when switching the ignition/cranking, ignition switches can be a problem
If this engine is distributor equipped, listen to/near it, sometimes the bearings go and you get a grinding sound from it
90's Honda product......... So think about rust, but as it's gonna be a beater, don't be expecting perfection, just sound structure
Then all your standard used car checks
Don't get suckered into a ridiculously high price because "It's a Honda, IT'LL LAST FOREVER!"
.......just no, its still a 20+ year old car with 200k+ on it, remember this
Happy hunting
Note the feel of shifting, a overall fluid refresh is probably a given should you buy.
Listen and feel the steering, creaky suspension bushings or ball joints can happen.
Feel, look at the lights on the dash when switching the ignition/cranking, ignition switches can be a problem
If this engine is distributor equipped, listen to/near it, sometimes the bearings go and you get a grinding sound from it
90's Honda product......... So think about rust, but as it's gonna be a beater, don't be expecting perfection, just sound structure
Then all your standard used car checks
Don't get suckered into a ridiculously high price because "It's a Honda, IT'LL LAST FOREVER!"
.......just no, its still a 20+ year old car with 200k+ on it, remember this
Happy hunting
F22 2.2L 4 cylinder? The usual worries of timing belt and water pump being changed every 100k as well as check atf stick to make sure fluid isnt nasty. Just drain and refill with a basic high mileage atf fluid that isnt too detergenty as it might clean too much and create new leaks. For oil go with valvoline maxlife 10w30 with Liquimoly Mos2 or straight 10w40 Liquimoly Mos2. Castrol HM would be good in the 10w30/40 as it had good burnoff protection also. Check radiator for contamination and know what brakes it uses as they had either nissin or akebono available for that generation. Mine seeped/leaker around distributor so check that too. If dipstick has dark burn marks on stick either walk away or ask them to pay you to take the car off their hands. Good luck
On average, few of the little things start going wrong on them at 200k+ miles
Such as , window motors, blower motor, alternator, ignition switch, main relay, thermostat, ignitor...maybe a few others, other than that SOLID CAR.
Main thing...make sure brakes are good, because rotors are a pain to remove.
Such as , window motors, blower motor, alternator, ignition switch, main relay, thermostat, ignitor...maybe a few others, other than that SOLID CAR.
Main thing...make sure brakes are good, because rotors are a pain to remove.
My biggest concern would be if it is rusted out. If it has lived its whole life in your area then ur fine. If it spent a few winters 3 states north of you it may be in terrible shape.
owner states that it is rust free.
Timing belt -done @ 210000 miles
radiator -upper and lower hoses changed, thermostat
front axles
rear brakes -both had new rotors and pads installed
new spark plugs and cables. ignition coil replaced about 1 year ago
4 new tires installed -by the end of December 2013
needs front brakes and rotors, which are being provided as part of sale.
Timing belt -done @ 210000 miles
radiator -upper and lower hoses changed, thermostat
front axles
rear brakes -both had new rotors and pads installed
new spark plugs and cables. ignition coil replaced about 1 year ago
4 new tires installed -by the end of December 2013
needs front brakes and rotors, which are being provided as part of sale.
Buy some new spindle nuts for the brake job; you're gonna need to remove them and they're one time use only. Be prepared to remove the whole steering knuckle to replace the rotors.
I have a 92 Accord, and while I've had to replace a bunch of stuff over the years, I wouldn't say any of the repairs were due to typical/common issues. These are really solid cars.
I have a 92 Accord, and while I've had to replace a bunch of stuff over the years, I wouldn't say any of the repairs were due to typical/common issues. These are really solid cars.
You will likely need new bearings for the front rotor job, I've never had the bearing come out of the hub in one piece. Usually it takes a bit of force and that makes the bearing separate.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Buy some new spindle nuts for the brake job; you're gonna need to remove them and they're one time use only. Be prepared to remove the whole steering knuckle to replace the rotors.
I have a 92 Accord, and while I've had to replace a bunch of stuff over the years, I wouldn't say any of the repairs were due to typical/common issues. These are really solid cars.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Buy some new spindle nuts for the brake job; you're gonna need to remove them and they're one time use only. Be prepared to remove the whole steering knuckle to replace the rotors.
I have a 92 Accord, and while I've had to replace a bunch of stuff over the years, I wouldn't say any of the repairs were due to typical/common issues. These are really solid cars.
I've replaced the rotors without needing new bearings. Just remove the knuckle, unbolt the bearing from the knuckle, and knock the whole bearing/hub/rotor assembly out of the knuckle. Then you can unbolt the rotor from the hub, and leave the hub and bearing together.
I had a 94 Accord which ran like a champ. Already mentioned by others, timing belt brakes, ATF etc. The other thing to check is rust in the rear wheel wells.
My Accord started to develop an engine block crack near the exhaust manifold. I'm not sure if that also applies to a 93 accord since the body style changed in 94.
You can remove that silver cover on the manifold and check underneath it to see if there is an oil leak. I ended up removing the bolt from the manifold to the block and that removed most of the stress which caused the crack. I put some JB weld on the crack, which might have helped. The leak was probably only half a quart of oil in 3,000 miles.
Here is a link to the topic.
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/showthread.php?170144-Cracked-Engine-Block
You can easily run an accord for 400,000 miles if you properly maintain it.
Regards, JC.
My Accord started to develop an engine block crack near the exhaust manifold. I'm not sure if that also applies to a 93 accord since the body style changed in 94.
You can remove that silver cover on the manifold and check underneath it to see if there is an oil leak. I ended up removing the bolt from the manifold to the block and that removed most of the stress which caused the crack. I put some JB weld on the crack, which might have helped. The leak was probably only half a quart of oil in 3,000 miles.
Here is a link to the topic.
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/showthread.php?170144-Cracked-Engine-Block
You can easily run an accord for 400,000 miles if you properly maintain it.
Regards, JC.
I wanted to look at a '96 Accord wagon 5-sp with 280,000 miles, but my wife doesn't like the mileage. I actually did physically look at it; the interior honestly looks like new. I wish her mind were more open to the miles. The guy is asking $1,900. I told him that I'm comfortable at $800, because it does need a timing belt and it does need tires. No sale, but it would have been a good deal at $800.
How much is the gent asking for the one you're going to see?
How much is the gent asking for the one you're going to see?
Sounds like they have kept it up, if their price isn't retarded it's probably a good buy.
A coworker just bought a '97 Accord with trans issues, and another '97 that plowed into a deer, but runs and drives good. I think he spent something like $800 on both cars ($400 ea, not $800 ea). One good car will be constructed, and remains will be scrapped.
A coworker just bought a '97 Accord with trans issues, and another '97 that plowed into a deer, but runs and drives good. I think he spent something like $800 on both cars ($400 ea, not $800 ea). One good car will be constructed, and remains will be scrapped.
Another tip on these cars (Honda F22 engines in general): If the EGR ports in the intake manifold are clogged up with carbon, the engine may spark knock/ping under load and run poorly. Cleaning out the ports is not too difficult and can solve these problems if they exist. You can find write-ups on the Internet on this topic.
I had a '90 Accord LX 5 speed coupe and I loved that car. I had a '94 Accord LX 5 speed wagon and that was a good car as well, but I felt that the '90 - '93 bodystyle was the best built and nicest looking of the two.
Andrew S.
I had a '90 Accord LX 5 speed coupe and I loved that car. I had a '94 Accord LX 5 speed wagon and that was a good car as well, but I felt that the '90 - '93 bodystyle was the best built and nicest looking of the two.
Andrew S.
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Oh,I just thought of a common problem on these cars. Oil in the spark plug tubes. There are o-rings at the bottom of the tubes that get hard and brittle and they leak. It's not really a big deal and shouldn't affect the way it runs at all though. Eric the Car Guy has a how-to video on how to replace them.
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