Tesla Maintenance

I'm going to test drive an M3 soon. I can't find any negatives with an EV for my situation and area. Plenty of charging stations around.
I hope you have an opportunity for at-home charging (ideally 240V but 120V works surprisingly well). At-home charging is what makes an EV truly useful. If I didn't have that I'm not at all sure I'd want an EV.

Waiting around at charging stations isn't my idea of a good time. They work well enough for occasional long trips but I wouldn't want to rely on them for everyday use.
 
I'm going to test drive an M3 soon. I can't find any negatives with an EV for my situation and area. Plenty of charging stations around.
Welcome to the dark side...
As @ecotourist posted, make sure you have a clear home charging plan. I know of people who only use 110v, charge mainly at work, etc, but I would not own an EV if I couldn't charge at home with a nice big fat NEMA 14-50.

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I just couldnt fathom going 180k w/out an alignment and yet it seemed clear the car didnt need one that entire time. The roads around here aren't great. I wonder if a tesla can hold an alignment better than traditional cars for some reason?
2001 Tacoma 246k, never needed one. Michelins always wear perfect, drives straight. Lucky I guess.
 
I hope you have an opportunity for at-home charging (ideally 240V but 120V works surprisingly well). At-home charging is what makes an EV truly useful. If I didn't have that I'm not at all sure I'd want an EV.

Waiting around at charging stations isn't my idea of a good time. They work well enough for occasional long trips but I wouldn't want to rely on them for everyday use.
I do 240v 24a. Most of the time I leave it turned down to 20a. Meets our needs. After my wife's run and a few Supercharger stops today for the animal rescue.

Screenshot-20251207-184420-Tesla.jpg
 
I do 240v 24a. Most of the time I leave it turned down to 20a. Meets our needs. After my wife's run and a few Supercharger stops today for the animal rescue.

Screenshot-20251207-184420-Tesla.jpg
Good plan. It sounds like you have a 30 Amp circuit and 80% of that (the apparently safe continuous load) would be 24 Amps.

I have a 40 Amp breaker and 80% of that should safely give me 32 Amps continuous - which is also my Model 3s maximum rate. I have charged at that rate in the past but I don't have any need to charge that fast, so I have my charging rate cut back a bit too, in my case to 24 Amps. Charging at a slower rate is probably better for the battery as well.
 
It is hard to bash Tesla about declining quality when the company never had any in the first place. LOL
You aren't kidding. Wasn't Jeff the one that showed a brand new Tesla in the showroom with tail light condensation?
 
Good plan. It sounds like you have a 30 Amp circuit and 80% of that (the apparently safe continuous load) would be 24 Amps.

I have a 40 Amp breaker and 80% of that should safely give me 32 Amps continuous - which is also my Model 3s maximum rate. I have charged at that rate in the past but I don't have any need to charge that fast, so I have my charging rate cut back a bit too, in my case to 24 Amps. Charging at a slower rate is probably better for the battery as well.
Yep, that's my setup. I basically hit the limit of the supply to my garage and I was going to have to upgrade the supply of it to go higher. I figured I'd try this out at 30a and it's been enough to cover two cars for a year now. If it wasn't enough I'd upgrade it. That said, I've thought of adding solar and actual Tesla Home Chargers for both sides of the garage just to fully overkill the setup. It's just not necessary even with my 80 mile commute.
 
The 6 month premium used to be less than the '13 GS350 F Sport which is like $540. I think it was maybe $450. Now it is about $1000.
I did have 1 payout; my friend opened the passenger door as an old Accord was pulling in the the next parking lot stall. Very minor damage to the beater Accord and nothing to the '18 Model 3. The M3P started lower than the earlier car, but recently more than doubled.

My rates are generally really low. Heck the RX450h F Sport is $20K more expensive than the M3P and is only $350 for 6 months.
Sheesh, what's a poor boy to do?
My premiums for my crown vic are around $550 6mo, lol!
 
Batteries and the electric motors don't get as hot so it's not under as much pressure. Whether that actually prolongs life is another thing.
Really? Under a load electric motors and batteries can get pretty hot, if the cooling system is not maintained properly it can suffer thermal runaway just like an ICE.

There may also be some gaps in the design of traditional automakers in terms of motor temperatures compared to Tesla Model Y. For example, the new Kia EV6 electric car has a maximum motor operating temperature of 140°C, while the Tesla Model Y has a maximum motor operating temperature of around 200°C. This may be because Tesla Model Y’s motor uses a more advanced cooling design, while Kia uses a traditional fan cooling system.
 
Really? Under a load electric motors and batteries can get pretty hot, if the cooling system is not maintained properly it can suffer thermal runaway just like an ICE.
Thermal runaway is a failure event. No amount of cooling is going to fix that. Operating normally the coolant does not get anywhere near as hot as an ICE vehicle and for that reason the pressure is lower. This is information given to me from an EV tech. Even the guy that runs Electrified Garage has said as much on a YouTube video and he used to work for Tesla.

Might it get hotter? Sure. It's not sustained at that level in a commute situation.
 
How much pressure in the Tesla? What does the pressure have to do with it anyway? Who are you trying to convince you or me? Personally I couldn't care less.
 
How much pressure in the Tesla? What does the pressure have to do with it anyway? Who are you trying to convince you or me? Personally I couldn't care less.
Higher temperatures equal higher coolant pressures. I'm just referencing what I was told. EV coolant rarely sees higher temperatures. I'd like to hear more of your claim of temperatures. Let's look at ICE for example. Most newer cars want to be at 190-220F coolant temperature. Teslas for example wants to be at 135F for a battery pack temperature for Supercharging. For any time other than the heat of summer that usually means having to heat the battery. It rarely needs to be cooled to get there unless someone is really beating on the car with lots of continuous heavy throttle.
 
Really? Under a load electric motors and batteries can get pretty hot, if the cooling system is not maintained properly it can suffer thermal runaway just like an ICE.
There have been EV problems with coolant leaks, like any car. Service interval problems are almost non-existant.
Having said that, not servicing any vehicle is asking for trouble.
 
How much pressure in the Tesla? What does the pressure have to do with it anyway? Who are you trying to convince you or me? Personally I couldn't care less.
(P1 * V1) / T1 = (P2 * V2) / T2

If you don't care, why do you keep posting? Just a question...
Don't get me wrong; your KSAs and contributions to this forum, and to me, are on another level.

FYI, "KSA" is Silicon Valley speak for, "Knowledge, Skills and Abilities".
 
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Really? Under a load electric motors and batteries can get pretty hot, if the cooling system is not maintained properly it can suffer thermal runaway just like an ICE.
I was dealing with some of the design of this back in school in the cooling loop control. There will always be a thermal shutdown in the software if the temp sensor detect overheat in both engine and electric motor.

The problem with cooling is not really the heat but the high pressure. Most electronics system cooling are below boiling point at atmospheric pressure and are not pressurized.

Most importantly if the coolant last longer than the battery then you can treat it as a lifetime coolant. You have to drain it to replace the battery anyways.
 
(P1 * V1) / T1 = (P2 * V2) / T2
That formula is correct, but only for gases. It's a derivative of the universal gas law PV=nRT.
P is Pressure​
V is Volume​
n is the number of moles of gas​
R is a constant, value depends on type of units​
T is absolute temperature (ie in degrees Rankin or Kelvin)​

Since n and R will both be constants in any constrained system, by rearranging the terms, PV/T = nR (which is a constant).
Which means that (P1 * V1) / T1 = (P2 * V2) / T2
 
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That formula is correct, but only for gases. It's a derivative of the universal gas law PV=nRT.
P is Pressure​
V is Volume​
n is the number of moles of gas​
R is a constant, value depends on type of units​
T is absolute temperature (ie in degrees Rankin or Kelvin)​

Since n and R will both be constants in any constrained system, by rearranging the terms, PV/T = nR (which is a constant).
Which means that (P1 * V1) / T1 = (P2 * V2) / T2
I learned that formula in HS Chem, perhaps 1969. For the life of me, I don't remember learning it applied only to gasses. I learned something today!
 
I learned that formula in HS Chem, perhaps 1969. For the life of me, I don't remember learning it applied only to gasses. I learned something today!

It can't apply to liquids because it assumes ideal gaseous compression. Liquids can be compressed, but not like gases. A piston with a perfect seal can compress gas to half the volume where the pressure increases. But it can't do that with water.
 
I was dealing with some of the design of this back in school in the cooling loop control. There will always be a thermal shutdown in the software if the temp sensor detect overheat in both engine and electric motor.

The problem with cooling is not really the heat but the high pressure. Most electronics system cooling are below boiling point at atmospheric pressure and are not pressurized.

Most importantly if the coolant last longer than the battery then you can treat it as a lifetime coolant. You have to drain it to replace the battery anyways.
Then there is this..

Antifreeze and coolant in a vehicle break down more quickly than when stored due to several conditions. Constant cycling between heating and cooling can cause the breakdown of additives.
Other things of concern are flow erosion and electrolysis which in an EV or hybrid may be the greater concern as the vehicle ages.
(P1 * V1) / T1 = (P2 * V2) / T2

If you don't care, why do you keep posting? Just a question...
Don't get me wrong; your KSAs and contributions to this forum, and to me, are on another level.

FYI, "KSA" is Silicon Valley speak for, "Knowledge, Skills and Abilities".
This is not about ev it is about coolant/antifreeze. posters have stated it is all about pressure and because the ICE may produce more heat and more pressure (I don't really buy into this theory) the Tesla does not need as much if any servicing of its cooling system.
How much heat does the EV electric motor generate under operating load, how much heat is at the main battery that the cooling system has to absorb to keep it at a lower temp? I find this interesting but also don't buy it 100% either.

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10694-025-01717-x
 
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