Tell me which oil is best

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I do not no anything about vis improvers or none of that stuff so be gentle with me. Tell me which weight oil is the best for long oil change and least likely to shear. Mobil1 EP 5w30 or 10w30.

I will ask this same question with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and 10w30. I ask because I seen a msds on the 5w20 and 5w30 and 10w30 and in my thinking It looked like the 5w20 would be the best oil but I always thought it would be the other way around the 10w30 would have the most base stock. Fill me in so I can keep up with the discussions here.
 
Not vehicle specific ?, Just curious to the weights vs the vis improvers vs base stock and so on. The add packs should be same in the same brands even with diff weights.
 
10W-30 'tends' to be the most 'stable' grade. In Alabama, it would most likely be perfectly fine for year-round use in any brand.....
 
Usually the rule of thumb is less viscosity spread is more stable as a rule. 0w-30 vs 10w-30, the 10w-30 should be more stable. Assuming all things are equal.......
I know you want all the info wired to your brain but you will form your own best opinions by reading.......a lot.

Then you will find the information that's best for you and your application "Little Grasshopper"

This coming from a more Senior Grasshopper........ If you have no clue about the Grasshopper thing, it's just because I've been around too long.
 
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Originally Posted By: Gator
I do not no anything about vis improvers or none of that stuff so be gentle with me. Tell me which weight oil is the best for long oil change and least likely to shear. Mobil1 EP 5w30 or 10w30.

I will ask this same question with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and 10w30. I ask because I seen a msds on the 5w20 and 5w30 and 10w30 and in my thinking It looked like the 5w20 would be the best oil but I always thought it would be the other way around the 10w30 would have the most base stock. Fill me in so I can keep up with the discussions here.


the best oil really depends on application, 20 and 30 grade makes big difference when the engine hot, 20 weight may cause your engine burning oil on engine not spec'd for it
 
If ur from Alabama then u may know some folks that could recommend an oil for u. Just go to a autoparts place and ask them. There are many fine oils out here. Just go ask or call the dealership of the auto or truck u drive is a good start.
 
How about reading the sticky at the top of this section?

THERE IS NO "BEST" OIL. PERIOD.
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It's always a question of balancing the following:

Vehicle engine traits (predisposition to sludge, etc?)
Planned OCI duration (your maintenance plan)
Planned complimentary components (such as filters, etc)
Environmental concerns (ambient temps)
Operational concerns (severity of use)
Fiscal threshold (how much is "too" much to spend?)
Availability (how easily/quickly do you want or need it?)
OEM specifications
etc.

There simply is no "best" oil that can be named without greatly reducing all the variables to one specific application. And even then, there are very likely several brands/grades that would suffice in the same situation with such fine ability that you'd not be able to tell the difference.

There are "better" decisions that can be made, howeveer. If you plan to do short OCIs, then house brand oils and economy filters will do fine. If moderate OCIs are planned, then brand name oils and filters are likely a good choice. If long OCIs are planned then you'll have to pony up for synthetics with high-end filters. It makes no more sense to put in a PAO synthetic with a ultra-grade filter in for 3k miles, than it does to run house oil with the OCOD filter for 20k miles.

In general, sticking with OEM specifications gives a high degree of confidence that the widest margin of conditions is met. You can certainly successfully venture outside of the specs, but you should work to assure yourself that the benefit you seek is not compromising another characteristic in some other aspect that you didn't consider.

There are many good decisions you can make, and bad ones too.

But there is no "best" oil.
 
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I did a UOA last year on the M1 5-30EP with my Focus at 10,000 mile OCI and it didn't shear a bit. Check the UOA section for gas engines and there are two reports on M15-30EP and neither sheared at all.If youe engine calls for 5-30 then it doesn't matter where you live, use 5-30.
 
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Yeah, sounds good, I like the M1 EP also like the Penn Plat, I will give the 5w30EP a try in a 2006 mustang GT real soon since I already have it. I would like to no more about the viscosity index and such on different oils, When you look at the msds sheets they will show a viscosity index number for the different weights, usually a number between 144 and 160 what is this number, is it something to do with the base stock or something that reflects a additive. The mustang calls for 5w20, I will stay with the 5w but I cannot make myself go with a 20 weight, old school for sure.
 
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Originally Posted By: Gator
Yeah, sounds good, I like the M1 EP also like the Penn Plat, I will give the 5w30EP a try in a 2006 mustang GT real soon since I already have it. I would like to no more about the viscosity index and such on different oils, When you look at the msds sheets they will show a viscosity index number for the different weights, usually a number between 144 and 160 what is this number, is it something to do with the base stock or something that reflects a additive. The mustang calls for 5w20, I will stay with the 5w but I cannot make myself go with a 20 weight, old school for sure.


As for the 5-20EP VS 5-30EP, I understand how you feel. My Fords call for 5-20, but I have been using 5-30EP from the start. Well, Johnny convinced me to try the 5-20EP as he is using it in his Merc GM and really likes it. Being somewhat old school myself I found it hard to change to 5-20. So last OC I put the 5-20EP in the Fusion and I really like it. Not that there was a problem with the 5-30. So I bought 5-20EP for the Focus which I will be putting in very soon as I am approaching 11,000 miles with this OC.
 
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