TCW3 in lawnmower maintenance dose

So to make sure I understand, even if I drain the tank and let it run to empty out and die on its own, I still should drain the carb bowl?
I have never gone through any wintertime voodoo . I fill the tank and next spring fire it up IOf there is a problem I will drain the float bowl a till the gas runs clean and the machine is ready to go.
 
I have never gone through any wintertime voodoo . I fill the tank and next spring fire it up IOf there is a problem I will drain the float bowl a till the gas runs clean and the machine is ready to go.
Right, that is what I do with my lawn mower and I have never had a problem with us sitting all winter in the shed. It’s probably at least 10 years old and always starts first or second pull first run after sitting.

On my snow blower, I’ve never had a problem with it starting either until a few weeks ago. I wanted to make sure it was gonna fire up. I fixed the issue but would rather deal with it now instead of trying to mess around with it trying to get it to start in 20 degree weather and have to shovel instead of use the blower
 
Watch the youtube videos on how to clean your GVC160 carburetor. When the carb is off, shoot b12 into the intake to clean the varnish from the intake valve stem. (or use seafom).

Then follow the carb cleaning to the letter even if it does not look dirty, just go thru poking out the holes and spraying it with carb cleaner. Install in gaskets for the carburetor to the engine and you should be good.
Would putting sea foam in the gas each tank do essentially the same without having to take it apart??
 
Would putting sea foam in the gas each tank do essentially the same without having to take it apart??
Seafoam works if the carb is not totally blocked and if the problem is "varnish" or some other "dissolvable" particles. If the issue is dirt or rubber bits from a deteriorating fuel line or corrosion, or the varnish is totally blocking the fuel flow through the carb, the only remedy is to take it apart and clean it.

Seafoam (or other cleaner) is usually the first step because it is easy to try. Put some in the tank and run it through while mowing the lawn. It dissolves the restrictions as it flows through the carb. Often, this is all you need if the engine is running, but just running poorly.
 
Considering my Honda 160 is 14 years old and haven’t taken the carb a part. It’s always ran well till this past summer. I only use 93 octane and a stabilizer for three months then I get fresh gas.

It’s starting to sputter after I start it and after a while it gets going it runs ok.

Is it worth a shot to run TCw3 in the gas to clean the carb out?
Startron by Starbrite is a very good additive that I've had real good luck with. It is designed to combat the uglies associated with ethanol fuel. If you think the carb is dirty, I like Berryman B12 injection cleaner.
 
I've used Seafoam as a cleaner/fuel stabilizer. Presently using TCW3. I'm going back to Seafoam. Tried TCW3 in the vehicles with the same, poor, results.
 
A little update. Today the Honda would only run with the choke open. So I decided to pull the bowl. Mind you it’s 14 years old. There was a bunch of crud. Power foamed it and wiped it as good as I could. Shot more power foam into bowl after installing. It’s running smooth now.
 
Seafoam does work but caution is needed if the entire fuel system is dirty.
Used it in a '96 SeaDoo that I got used. It loosened up the green algae in the fuel system and plugged the little filters in the Mikuni BN carb inlets on it. No fun idling back to the dock.
What a PITA to pull those carbs and clean them.
Tank dirty, pull and flush everything for a once and done. Carb dirty, pull it and clean. ''Mechanic in a can'' has its pros and cons.
Stabilize your fuel cans when you fill the cans, I call it ''self-proofing''.
Marine grade stabilizers are all I use in all my equipment.
 
Seafoam does work but caution is needed if the entire fuel system is dirty.
Used it in a '96 SeaDoo that I got used. It loosened up the green algae in the fuel system and plugged the little filters in the Mikuni BN carb inlets on it. No fun idling back to the dock.
What a PITA to pull those carbs and clean them.
Tank dirty, pull and flush everything for a once and done. Carb dirty, pull it and clean. ''Mechanic in a can'' has its pros and cons.
Stabilize your fuel cans when you fill the cans, I call it ''self-proofing''.
Marine grade stabilizers are all I use in all my equipment.
Thanks for the tip. At the end of the fall season I run the tank dry. Use a stabilizer and fresh gas every three months. I should wipe the bowl down every year.
 
Back
Top