Synthetic / seal conditioning
- Thread starter grbr95
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grbr95,
It is quite the opposite. Change the valve cover gaskets on that Caravan, pour in some good dino, and be done with it !
It is quite the opposite. Change the valve cover gaskets on that Caravan, pour in some good dino, and be done with it !
Yes - in my experience. I'm not sure where GR is getting his information, but dino oil tends to do two things:
1) crust up seals and grind at them with the gritty crust
2) dry seals up, main with dino oils with excessive pour point agents, these lighter solvent type agents can be hard on seals over the years.
My experience shows that synthetics tend to keep seals supple.
1) crust up seals and grind at them with the gritty crust
2) dry seals up, main with dino oils with excessive pour point agents, these lighter solvent type agents can be hard on seals over the years.
My experience shows that synthetics tend to keep seals supple.
Pablo,
This is the #1 reason besides cost, that people are afraid of using synthetic oils, myself included. There needs to be more discussion and reassurance from people like yourself.
This is the #1 reason besides cost, that people are afraid of using synthetic oils, myself included. There needs to be more discussion and reassurance from people like yourself.
I will never deny that people with older, less than optitmally cared for cars, can expeience oil leaks when changing to any oil with much better cleaning properties and MUCH better flow properties. It just stands to reason - but this really has nothing to do with "seal conditioning" and everything to do with age and oil properties.
To throw another loop out there - sometimes these leaks can be fixed with AutoRx, which has some positive effects on seals. But if a seal is truly toast, well that's that and a real limitation of shaft-polymer seal technology.
To throw another loop out there - sometimes these leaks can be fixed with AutoRx, which has some positive effects on seals. But if a seal is truly toast, well that's that and a real limitation of shaft-polymer seal technology.
Switched over my Honda accord at 113,000. Did the auto-rx two treatment thing first and no leaks or oil consumption at all. Now at 142,000.
Milage is better, engine is smooth and varnish is gone. 27mpg around town 32 highway with automatic. Also I get to go 8000 miles before having to change this Mobil 1 stuff.
Milage is better, engine is smooth and varnish is gone. 27mpg around town 32 highway with automatic. Also I get to go 8000 miles before having to change this Mobil 1 stuff.
grbr & GoldenRod,
Do a search for the early discussions of synthetic oils cleaning valve seals.
The originator of this website 'Bob the oil guy'
performed a test with synthetic oils, petroleum oils and oil additives with valve seals,
the was some cleaning of the valve seals by the synthetic oils.
Does this pertain to valve cover gaskets?
I do not know but some synthetics do help clean and break down deposits.
I have not had a problem with switching to synthetics.
Do a search for the early discussions of synthetic oils cleaning valve seals.
The originator of this website 'Bob the oil guy'
performed a test with synthetic oils, petroleum oils and oil additives with valve seals,
the was some cleaning of the valve seals by the synthetic oils.
Does this pertain to valve cover gaskets?
I do not know but some synthetics do help clean and break down deposits.
I have not had a problem with switching to synthetics.
I put Redline in my wife's Aerostar. It has 112,000 miles and the Redline has been in 1900 miles and not leaked yet. Previous two OCIs were Group III synthetic. Before that it had a blend most of it's life. But the power steering on this van was seeping when I recently put Redline PS fluid in it and now it leaks and I have to park on cardboard.
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