Synthetic Mercon from Ford

[Whimsey]

I've seen it for many years at the local dealer. It's probably expensive and most likely a Group III. You'd be better off with Mobil 1 Mercon. By the way did they update the Motorcraft site or is it still showing SJ oil specs

.

Whimsey

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

I went to www.motorcraft.com to read about the new synthetic blend 5W30 Motorcraft oil and decided to read up on there transmission fluids.They now make a full synthetic Mercon/Dexron III transmission fluid.Has anyone tried this fluid yet? Opinions?

 

[mf150]

Blue Oval... which transmission do you have?

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

4R70W,and I use Ford MerconV in it.

 

[Schmoe]

Your using the Mobil Mercon in your 4r70w trans??? Wow. Your braver than I am. How many miles to you have on it with this stuff so far?

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

I bought my truck used with 64k miles on it.I did a converter/pan/filter/cooler and lines flush when I first got it.I used AAMCO synthetic blend MerconV and again at 82k miles.With 103k miles now,I just recently did the same but this time with Ford Motorcraft MerconV fluid.Transmission shifts great and no shudder or slippage.

 

[xwhaler]

in my owners manual for the 4r70w transmission (2000 Ford Explorer) they specify the use of Mercon V.

I bought it with 28k a year ago, immediately did the 30,000 mile service (drop the pan, change the filter)

Now at 51,000, I'm thinking about doing it again (@ 60k when they reccomend again)
The 1st time I used Kendall Mercon V but this time I will most likely use the Castrol Mercon V which can be had at Wal-mart for around $2.50/qt.

Thoughts? Would I be better off getting a full flush done? Truck shifts fine, I very rarely tow with it and use 4x4 in the winter somewhat frequently.

 

[RF Overlord]

Since you've already done the 30,000-mile service, and you say you don't tow (or plow?) with it, just doing the pan-drop service again at 60,000 will be fine. Although a full flush certainly won't hurt, it's probably over-kill.

You might want to consider installing a drain plug, or getting the Ford pan with one already installed, and just doing a simple drain-and-refill in between the service intervals; i.e. change the fluid-only every 15,000, and drop the pan every other time.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

xwhaler,if I were you ide drop the pan,change the filter,and drain the converter.This procedure will take 11-12 quarts of fluid.You can go a step farther,like I do,and disconnect the trans cooler lines and blow the fluid from the cooler and the lines.Use very low pressure.This will rid the system of almost 2 more quarts of fluid.

 

[Mickey_M]

quote:

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Originally posted by StanW:
Here is a spec sheet from EXXON and it looks like their's is a Group IV.
http://www.exxon.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2PVLEXSuperflo_Mercon_V.asp#SpecsApprovalsTitle

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It's discontinued. It's now being sold under the Mobil and AAMCO brands:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil_Mercon_V_Synthetic_Blend_ATF.asp

It's a synthetic blend, and it's recommended for Mercon and Mercon V, Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4, and Dexron-II or Dexron-III use.

 

[StanW]

Here is a spec sheet from EXXON and it looks like their's is a Group IV.
http://www.exxon.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2PVLEXSuperflo_Mercon_V.asp#SpecsApprovalsTitle

 

[SHOZ]

From what I have seen of the MotorCrap Mercon V in Taurus SHOs it doesn't hold up. I bring an extra gallon of my Amsoil ATX fluid for a buddy who will always end up over heating the Mercon V fluid and boiling it out.

There is also an easy way to flush the entire system on Fords, factory approved too.

quote:

---

1) disconnect the lower transaxle fluid cooler line.

2) start engine, keep at idle, and fluid will drain from the open cooler line.

3) stop engine immediately when steady stream stops flowing (2 to 3 quarts will drain)

4) With engine stopped, add 10 quarts of new fluid to transmission. Don't worry, it won't overflow or damage anything.

5) start engine again and fluid will again drain from open cooler line.

6) stop engine when steady stream stops flowing (10 quarts will drain)

7) reconnect trans cooler line.

8) add 2 quarts of new fluid to transmission

9) check fluid level under normal operating temp and add in 1/2 pint increments until full.

---

If you want to drop the pan and change the filter do it between steps 3 & 4. There will still be about 3 quarts of fluid in the pan.

 

[Jackpot01]

I know some of the MTX-75 manual transmission guys on the Focus site say that the Syn Mercon from Motorcraft is excellent...but its about 20 something a quart so thats a lil rough.

Eric

 

[JohnnyO]

I got some M1 to change my transfer case lube, which calls for Mercon. As far as I can see from the label, M1 ATF is not a sub for Mercon V which my transmission calls for. From what I can tell you can use Mercon V in place of Mercon but not Mercon instead of Mercon V.

 

[Whimsey]

quote:

---

Originally posted by JohnnyO:
From what I can tell you can use Mercon V in place of Mercon but not Mercon instead of Mercon V.

---

Not sure about that. If you have a newer Ford that requires Mercon in the transmission they specifically state not to use Mercon V. Also the Ford transfer cases up unto at least 2003 required Mercon while the auto transmissions used Mercon V in the same vehicle. If Mercon V was ok to use in the transfer case why did they spec Mercon in there while the transmission used Mercon V

. If Mercon V was ok to use in the transer case you'd think they would have spec'd it since it was already being used in the transmission

.

Whimsey

 

[JohnnyO]

I agree, I'm just going by what I read on the labels.

 

[Schmoe]

quote:

---

Originally posted by SHOZ:
There is also an easy way to flush the entire system on Fords, factory approved too.

quote:

---

1) disconnect the lower transaxle fluid cooler line.

2) start engine, keep at idle, and fluid will drain from the open cooler line.

3) stop engine immediately when steady stream stops flowing (2 to 3 quarts will drain)

4) With engine stopped, add 10 quarts of new fluid to transmission. Don't worry, it won't overflow or damage anything.

5) start engine again and fluid will again drain from open cooler line.

6) stop engine when steady stream stops flowing (10 quarts will drain)

7) reconnect trans cooler line.

8) add 2 quarts of new fluid to transmission

9) check fluid level under normal operating temp and add in 1/2 pint increments until full.

---

If you want to drop the pan and change the filter do it between steps 3 & 4. There will still be about 3 quarts of fluid in the pan.

---

First time I've read this methodology. So, your basically diluting the old stuff with the new, as adding ten quarts and then draining ten quarts, but 10 minus the intial 3 gives 7 quarts on a 12 or so quart system. Does this also get into the torque converter? Maybe it's just me, but these sure seems like a cheesy way of replacing your atf and also seems like you'd be wasting a lot of good atf with all the flushing going on.

 

[MolaKule]

quote:

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Does this also get into the torque converter? Maybe it's just me, but these sure seems like a cheesy way of replacing your atf and also seems like you'd be wasting a lot of good atf with all the flushing going on.

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Fluid from the internal pumps applies pressure to the fluid and causes it to circulate through the torque converter, otherwise, the torque converter and its needle bearings would overheat.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission14.htm


See also:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission1.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission2.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission4.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission10.htm


It is a good way of slow cleaning without flaking off small pieces of varnish and carbon and getting them in:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission13.htm

[ November 08, 2004, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]