Looking to invest in some buffing equiptment recommendations please on products including polishes waxes and the such
Swirl marks
- Thread starter kyxtremetuber
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How serious are you in learning how to polish cars?
If you're just starting out and aren't sure the least expensive way to do a decent job would be to get the Harbor Freight DA polisher and a couple polishing and finishing pads.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools...sher-69924.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8936/category/690/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8937/category/690/
This ought to get you started pretty good. Don't forget to get a set of decent microfibers. The ones from Costco are excellent.
As for other items. You'll definitely want to get a clay bar or two. You can get them from your local auto store or order them quite inexpensively online. I use some generic blue ones that are only about $5 each shipped. I split them into thirds and 1/3 can easily do several cars before they're too contaminated.
Polishes, I would start out with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate polish. Those two are in my opinion the best OTC polishes available and put to shame pretty much anything previously available OTC. They use the same micro-abrasives that were previously available only for professional use, but are made much easier to use for amateurs now.
Waxes, pick anything you like but if you want a very long lasting and yet still easy to use wax, Collinite 845 Liquid Wax is old school and smells like gasoline but it's easy to use and you'll not find a wax much more durable and on top of that it looks great. Remember apply it thinly, less is more.
Be sure to read up on polishing and waxing techniques on this site and the autopia forum. It takes a little practice but with modern polishes and especially the wealth of online info available even a rank amateur can turn out almost professional results within a few hours of training.
If you're just starting out and aren't sure the least expensive way to do a decent job would be to get the Harbor Freight DA polisher and a couple polishing and finishing pads.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools...sher-69924.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8936/category/690/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8937/category/690/
This ought to get you started pretty good. Don't forget to get a set of decent microfibers. The ones from Costco are excellent.
As for other items. You'll definitely want to get a clay bar or two. You can get them from your local auto store or order them quite inexpensively online. I use some generic blue ones that are only about $5 each shipped. I split them into thirds and 1/3 can easily do several cars before they're too contaminated.
Polishes, I would start out with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate polish. Those two are in my opinion the best OTC polishes available and put to shame pretty much anything previously available OTC. They use the same micro-abrasives that were previously available only for professional use, but are made much easier to use for amateurs now.
Waxes, pick anything you like but if you want a very long lasting and yet still easy to use wax, Collinite 845 Liquid Wax is old school and smells like gasoline but it's easy to use and you'll not find a wax much more durable and on top of that it looks great. Remember apply it thinly, less is more.
Be sure to read up on polishing and waxing techniques on this site and the autopia forum. It takes a little practice but with modern polishes and especially the wealth of online info available even a rank amateur can turn out almost professional results within a few hours of training.
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Nice call on the collinite. I dicovered this wax a year ago and i love the way it goes on & off and how well it works. Lasts along time too. And yes it does have a weird smell so it must be good right!! Not like the waxes that smell good so they must be good to use huh?? Cant find in any auto part shops. I found it on amazon and took a shot, great product!
For a polisher, get a Porter Cable 7424 (or one of the many copies of it). Also get a "polishing pad" and a "finishing pad" (colors of said pads vary by company).
For a beginner, get what you can locally. Meguiar's products are a solid value and are available in many places such as Walmart. Gold Class soap and Gold Class wax work well. Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is another good choice for a beginner (even if it's a bit over-hyped).
I like the micofiber towels from Pak Shak and Autogeek (incidentally, Autogeek should have everything you want/need).
There are tons of choices and everyone will tout their favorites. This will lead to paralysis by analysis as you search for the best polish, best wax, best sealant, best whatever. Process and technique are more important than specific products.
For a beginner, get what you can locally. Meguiar's products are a solid value and are available in many places such as Walmart. Gold Class soap and Gold Class wax work well. Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is another good choice for a beginner (even if it's a bit over-hyped).
I like the micofiber towels from Pak Shak and Autogeek (incidentally, Autogeek should have everything you want/need).
There are tons of choices and everyone will tout their favorites. This will lead to paralysis by analysis as you search for the best polish, best wax, best sealant, best whatever. Process and technique are more important than specific products.
Hide swirls by hand:
clay bar with Optimum No-Rinse
Mother's Step 1: Pure Polish
Mother's Step 2: Micro-Polishing Glaze
Remove swirls by machine:
clay bar with Optimum No-Rinse
Meguiar's Power DA system (burgundy and yellow pad)
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
Meguiar's Ultimate Polish
All that is to remove contaminants, clean the paint and deal with swirls. The Optimum No-Rinse is cost effective since I usually go through almost half a gallon of detailer (lube) for one car. ONR is $16 for 32oz. You use 2 ounces to make a gallon of lube... so half a gallon is $1.5 $.5 (ONR) + $1 for distilled water. Detailer in spray quantities is often $8 for 16oz. When claying you are safer off with more lube and there is nothing wrong with more.
Meguiar's Power DA is $50 and attaches to your drill. Use a corded drill for your entire car. A cordless's battery is only enough to deal with a panel or two if you are lucky.
After you are done with the above you then can wax. I recommend two methods:
Meguiar's Ultimate Wax [just to complete the line
]
or
Armor-All Extreme Shield Wax topped with Meguiar's Hi-Tech Yellow Wax #26
Ultimate Wax is so easy to use that I am usually tempted time permitting after every wash to add just a bit more wax.
On the other hand Armor-All's Extreme Shield Wax has lasted me about 9 months. In another car that's garaged and not driven often it lasted more than a year!
Extreme Shield is not known for it's appearance, but shine doesn't come from wax. Since you are doing three steps for paint prep your car will be shiny already. Regardless you can top it with a pure carnauaba wax like Meguiar's #26.
If you layer, do synthetic then carnauba. Most waxes have some cleaner in it so it weakens or removes the previous layer. That Meguiars is a pure wax. I believe Mother's also has a pure wax. You'll have to check.
You'll be looking at about 4-6 hours so set aside an afternoon and eat a hardy breakfast!
clay bar with Optimum No-Rinse
Mother's Step 1: Pure Polish
Mother's Step 2: Micro-Polishing Glaze
Remove swirls by machine:
clay bar with Optimum No-Rinse
Meguiar's Power DA system (burgundy and yellow pad)
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
Meguiar's Ultimate Polish
All that is to remove contaminants, clean the paint and deal with swirls. The Optimum No-Rinse is cost effective since I usually go through almost half a gallon of detailer (lube) for one car. ONR is $16 for 32oz. You use 2 ounces to make a gallon of lube... so half a gallon is $1.5 $.5 (ONR) + $1 for distilled water. Detailer in spray quantities is often $8 for 16oz. When claying you are safer off with more lube and there is nothing wrong with more.
Meguiar's Power DA is $50 and attaches to your drill. Use a corded drill for your entire car. A cordless's battery is only enough to deal with a panel or two if you are lucky.
After you are done with the above you then can wax. I recommend two methods:
Meguiar's Ultimate Wax [just to complete the line
]or
Armor-All Extreme Shield Wax topped with Meguiar's Hi-Tech Yellow Wax #26
Ultimate Wax is so easy to use that I am usually tempted time permitting after every wash to add just a bit more wax.
Extreme Shield is not known for it's appearance, but shine doesn't come from wax. Since you are doing three steps for paint prep your car will be shiny already. Regardless you can top it with a pure carnauaba wax like Meguiar's #26.
If you layer, do synthetic then carnauba. Most waxes have some cleaner in it so it weakens or removes the previous layer. That Meguiars is a pure wax. I believe Mother's also has a pure wax. You'll have to check.
You'll be looking at about 4-6 hours so set aside an afternoon and eat a hardy breakfast!
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Originally Posted By: qwertydude
How serious are you in learning how to polish cars?
If you're just starting out and aren't sure the least expensive way to do a decent job would be to get the Harbor Freight DA polisher and a couple polishing and finishing pads.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools...sher-69924.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8936/category/690/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8937/category/690/
This ought to get you started pretty good. Don't forget to get a set of decent microfibers. The ones from Costco are excellent.
As for other items. You'll definitely want to get a clay bar or two. You can get them from your local auto store or order them quite inexpensively online. I use some generic blue ones that are only about $5 each shipped. I split them into thirds and 1/3 can easily do several cars before they're too contaminated.
Polishes, I would start out with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate polish. Those two are in my opinion the best OTC polishes available and put to shame pretty much anything previously available OTC. They use the same micro-abrasives that were previously available only for professional use, but are made much easier to use for amateurs now.
Waxes, pick anything you like but if you want a very long lasting and yet still easy to use wax, Collinite 845 Liquid Wax is old school and smells like gasoline but it's easy to use and you'll not find a wax much more durable and on top of that it looks great. Remember apply it thinly, less is more.
Be sure to read up on polishing and waxing techniques on this site and the autopia forum. It takes a little practice but with modern polishes and especially the wealth of online info available even a rank amateur can turn out almost professional results within a few hours of training.
Good advice, I think. I would avoid doing any more grinding than necessary. Once you get it looking right, just use wax.
If you have a Dual Action polisher, you might as well use paste wax. Its easier to apply than liquid wax, which is for people without polishers. Collinite sells the 845 in pastewax form, called Collinite 476.
I like the one bucket "Garry Dean" method for washing, but be sure you have plenty of el cheapo microfiber towels. Its easier to youtube than it is to describe.
How serious are you in learning how to polish cars?
If you're just starting out and aren't sure the least expensive way to do a decent job would be to get the Harbor Freight DA polisher and a couple polishing and finishing pads.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools...sher-69924.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8936/category/690/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/8937/category/690/
This ought to get you started pretty good. Don't forget to get a set of decent microfibers. The ones from Costco are excellent.
As for other items. You'll definitely want to get a clay bar or two. You can get them from your local auto store or order them quite inexpensively online. I use some generic blue ones that are only about $5 each shipped. I split them into thirds and 1/3 can easily do several cars before they're too contaminated.
Polishes, I would start out with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate polish. Those two are in my opinion the best OTC polishes available and put to shame pretty much anything previously available OTC. They use the same micro-abrasives that were previously available only for professional use, but are made much easier to use for amateurs now.
Waxes, pick anything you like but if you want a very long lasting and yet still easy to use wax, Collinite 845 Liquid Wax is old school and smells like gasoline but it's easy to use and you'll not find a wax much more durable and on top of that it looks great. Remember apply it thinly, less is more.
Be sure to read up on polishing and waxing techniques on this site and the autopia forum. It takes a little practice but with modern polishes and especially the wealth of online info available even a rank amateur can turn out almost professional results within a few hours of training.
Good advice, I think. I would avoid doing any more grinding than necessary. Once you get it looking right, just use wax.
If you have a Dual Action polisher, you might as well use paste wax. Its easier to apply than liquid wax, which is for people without polishers. Collinite sells the 845 in pastewax form, called Collinite 476.
I like the one bucket "Garry Dean" method for washing, but be sure you have plenty of el cheapo microfiber towels. Its easier to youtube than it is to describe.
Originally Posted By: razel
You'll be looking at about 4-6 hours so set aside an afternoon and eat a hardy breakfast!
Especially with the Meg DA system, I seriously doubt that you can achieve decent results in 4-6 hours. He's probably looking at double that, at a minimum.
You'll be looking at about 4-6 hours so set aside an afternoon and eat a hardy breakfast!
Especially with the Meg DA system, I seriously doubt that you can achieve decent results in 4-6 hours. He's probably looking at double that, at a minimum.
Yes. 4-6 hours is for machine removal of light-ish swirls. If your try hand removal... then good luck for the entire car!
For completion. The two options are for you to decide how to deal with swirls based on the condition of your paint. If it's parked outside 24/7 in the sun and the clear coat is showing signs of failure then I don't recommend removing swirls. Removing swirls requires removing clear coat. Even if that layer is immeasurable by machine, I wouldn't want to remove more.
If it's failing, I recommend cleaning the paint and conditioning it which is what Mother's Step 1+2 and Ultimate Polish do. Micro Glaze has the advantage of specifically being able to fill in swirls while UP is incidental.
As for the topping yes you can top carnauba over synthetic. Synthetics are sealants and require 12 hours for it to cross-link. So wait the 12 hours then top with carnauba, only if you like. It is not required and it for sure will not last long.
My recommendation is due to the fact that when you wax you probably aren't getting 100% molecular coverage the 1st time. You really cannot layer the same type of wax over itself. A wise Meguiar's employee stated that you are just moving molecules around. They only recommend 2nd applications to better ensure full coverage.
So instead of moving molecules around, another former Meguiar's employee suggests topping synthetic sealant with pure carnauba wax. The key is pure wax. The carnauba not only will help ensure better coverage, but will also add a depth that synthetic sealants often lack. Of course carnauba over synthetic will not bond as well as over unwaxed paint, but given the choice of how to deal with ensuring full coverage, I feel it's the best one.
All products I mentioned I've seen at auto parts stores except ONR. ONR is still worth ordering it since it can be used as a detailer, clay lube, and wash. It even softens your wash water.
Have fun.
For completion. The two options are for you to decide how to deal with swirls based on the condition of your paint. If it's parked outside 24/7 in the sun and the clear coat is showing signs of failure then I don't recommend removing swirls. Removing swirls requires removing clear coat. Even if that layer is immeasurable by machine, I wouldn't want to remove more.
If it's failing, I recommend cleaning the paint and conditioning it which is what Mother's Step 1+2 and Ultimate Polish do. Micro Glaze has the advantage of specifically being able to fill in swirls while UP is incidental.
As for the topping yes you can top carnauba over synthetic. Synthetics are sealants and require 12 hours for it to cross-link. So wait the 12 hours then top with carnauba, only if you like. It is not required and it for sure will not last long.
My recommendation is due to the fact that when you wax you probably aren't getting 100% molecular coverage the 1st time. You really cannot layer the same type of wax over itself. A wise Meguiar's employee stated that you are just moving molecules around. They only recommend 2nd applications to better ensure full coverage.
So instead of moving molecules around, another former Meguiar's employee suggests topping synthetic sealant with pure carnauba wax. The key is pure wax. The carnauba not only will help ensure better coverage, but will also add a depth that synthetic sealants often lack. Of course carnauba over synthetic will not bond as well as over unwaxed paint, but given the choice of how to deal with ensuring full coverage, I feel it's the best one.
All products I mentioned I've seen at auto parts stores except ONR. ONR is still worth ordering it since it can be used as a detailer, clay lube, and wash. It even softens your wash water.
Have fun.
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