sway bar and tie rods

[coopns]

02 Grand Caravan with 70k. Could here a little extra thump on some bumps. Took'er in for a look and the sway bar and tie rods on two tires were done. Does that sound right with that amount of miles and age? I thought it would be ok for a while. What exactly does the tie rods and sway bar do? And are the DIY projects for a real rookie?

Thanks.

 

[Willy_G]

They probably mean swaybar bushings. Yes, this might be something a DIY rookie could do. Swaybard are a rod of spring steel that are attached to both wheels (usually at the control arm) that help resist body roll during cornering.

Tie rods are connected to the steering rack and transmit steering wheel inputs to the wheels. This is fancy for saying they keep the wheels steered in the right direction. They have a ball joint (AKA tie rod end) that attaches to the hub or knuckle, and a large nut-end that attaches to the rack, and a threaded rod for alignment adjustments. I would not to tie rods as a DIY rookie. I wouldn’t neglect these. If an end snaps at speed, the wheel will turn 90 degrees possibly bending other suspension components, breaking a CV joint, and even cause a wreck (but most break at low speeds when loads are higher).

Buy or borrow a service manual for you make/model and read the procedures, then make your decision based on your experience and confidence level.

 

[Shaman]

I would not suggest doing a tie rod end replacement unless you are confident. Check the manual, but it isn't for the faint of heart. Also, check out CV boots and other components for stress or wear, as getting the tie rod done will be the perfect time for other repairs that are needed.

Also, remember to get an alignment after replacing the tie rods.

 

[nobadges]

Its not worth tackling tie-rods or related components yourself.
I have replaced tie-rods. It can be a very labor intensive endeavor for the home mechanic as the locking nuts can be seized on to the extent you will swear they have been welded.
Also, a proper alignment is absolutely needed after the work is done.

Take it to a garage. By the time you buy the parts then pay someone to do the alignment you are not much futher ahead. The labor fee for the component replacement is not much anyway.

 

[Gary Allan]

I'd have no issues with doing outer tie rod ends. You just count the threads (or turns) before you remove it. Inners are more of a challenge. Mainly due to location (for me anyway) You're going to have to get an alignment anyway since you had shot tie rods ends. Swaybar bushings? If you can get it in there ..a reciprocating saw or angle grinder really cuts down on the time (which isn't that much anyway).


This is unusual for a vehicle to need these items this early in it's life. My 92 Caravan has the original tie rods and sway bar bushings @ 172k. Maybe if it was used in a strictly urban environment where parking forced lock to lock steering without the wheels turning/moving would it make sense for this type of wear

 

[nobadges]

Ok…didn’t notice the “Caravan”
Chrysler uses really cheap tie rods—they are stamped metal not die cast. The stamping have grooves leaving the threads exposed to the elements

They hold up very well under “normal” use, but wear out very quickly if damaged even slightly hitting heavy bumps etc.

I swapped mine for solid ones.

PS: Counting the exposed threads works very well if replacing identical components.

 

[rpn453]

Ball joints and struts usually wear out before those items. Have you had to replace those yet?

I've done a few tie-rod ends and found them to be very easy to do. I've never done any sway bar bushings though. You'll need an alignment after doing the tie rod ends.

 

[1sttruck]

Tie rods are a pain without the right tools, and you still need to take it in for alignment after replacement. I ended up being able to use a large Craftsman combo wrench to remove and tighten the large nut.

 

[PTBH04]

If it is in fact the "sway bar end links" it is fairly common for them to fail on the newer Chrysler front drive vehicles. I have replaced them on Neons at around the same miles your talking about. It will affect your handling more than anything, but if you wait the link will eventually break.

 

[smeltjr]

i would recommend that you visit a chrysler specific website, namely allpar, and get on the minivan forum which has specific info as opposed to this website for oil-these bushings fail religiously.
fyi, i own two chrysler vehicles and one of them is a 99 voyager. by the time i hit 65K i had been through 2 sets and putting on my third of sway bar bushings-they are a known and popular problem on these vans. fortunately, they are cheap and easy. unless you can reach these with the car down, you will need BOTH wheels off the ground, with the vehicle safely on stands. there are 2 bushings. each is bracketed by 2 bolts/nuts. i believe they are 15mm and they are readily reachable. loosen,but do not take off all 4-if you leave one side completely tight you will not be able to get the bracket on right. very lightly sand off any rust on the sway bar if there is any where the bushing goes. put some vegetable oil on the inside of the bushing. square side faces down and slit in bushing goes facing towards rear. get both sides in place and tighten. factory manual torque is 50 ft/lb.
this job is easy and should take no more than 1 hr once the vehicle is up on stands, even for the novice. 20 min job, really.. fyi, each and every dealer parts department will ALWAYS have these in stock. they are about $7 each. hmmmmmm???? btw, autozone website has chiltons online, go to maintenance and pick your car. factory manuals are best. i recommend 1/2 in drive 6-point sockets for anything under the car.

 

[smeltjr]

by the way parts also ALWAYS has
-serpentine belt tensioners and pulleys (surprised these haven't gone)
-front end links (almost as common as sway bar bushings-get greasable moog aftermarkets)
-power steering pumps (that rust through on the bottom and leak)
-transminnion cooler lines (that leak)
-and transmission input/output sensors (wait till your tranny goes in limp mode due to this $17 part. scary as **** but cheap and easy fix)

aside of these minor qualms (except the steering pump which was a major PITA, this vehicle has been very reliable for me. i'd get another in a second. there is also lots of web knowledge and assistance.

 

[TurboLuver]

Get a set of pickle forks and do it yourself, it is very easy to replace tie-rods and sway bar bushings and end links. As Garry mentioned count the threads or measure. It doesnt have to be exact, just good enought that you can safely drive it to the shop for an alignment.

 

[smeltjr]

i have actually found the easiest way to pop out the tie rod ends was with a cheap harbor freight style 2 jaw puller-tie rods are not in that tight. i agree that this should be a fairly easy job. this is an 02 van so chances are jam nuts may not be that bad. anyway, i have learned to prepare and spray em good with blaster or kroil, then get a propane torch out and heat em good and then splash with cold water after heating before i even try loosening these in any car first.
as said, once loose, just count the turns that this is screwed in by, and alignment will not be that bad till you can get to a shop.
YOU CAN DO THIS. it is worth your investment in time to learn about your car and there is nothing that you can really "break" trying. if you cannot get the jam nut off, put it back together, put the tie rod end back in and tighten it up and then drive to the shop-no biggie, you tried. only thing you have wasted is time jacking car up and trying to loosen something-what you have gained is potentially a couple hundred bucks, knowledge about how your car works, and maybe not having to rely on the oftentimes overpriced ripoff car repair industry that thrives on ignorance and people being intimidated by their cars. refer to the online manual that i noted above, make sure your local parts store has these-they will, and try it.

 

[Nick Bamberger]

I went to a junk yard and found a low mileage same model car wrecked to the front end, took the whole sway bar, and replaced. I think that was easier than just replacing the bushings. I think I paid about $15.