Suspected Dead A/C Clutch

Ifixyawata

Ifixyawata

Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Messages
899
Location
NE Ohio
So I took ownership of my 2004 Accord a few years ago. When I started driving it the A/C didn't blow cold. A few pulls from a Wal-Mart can of R134a got the A/C working and blowing cold again. A couple problem free years later and early this summer it became clear the A/C wasn't working again. I figured, no major issue, probably a very slow leak. I added refrigerant on my lunch break one day, watching the gauge on the can/hose and once it hit the 'green' range I stopped. When I checked the vent temperature it didn't seem to be too cold, so I added an additional amount and called it good. Before the end of my 30 minute lunch break the A/C had switched back to blowing hot and the compressor would no longer engage. I tried bleeding some refrigerant off (bad idea, I know) and still nothing would get the A/C compressor running again.

Fast forward to yesterday, I had an opportunity to do some checking and I found that, it seems the A/C compressor clutch, despite receiving 12v while running with A/C on. I tried also sending 12/v to the compressor clutch and no clicking or engagement resulted.

Now, I'm not opposed to replacing the clutch since it definitely seems faulty but is it possible that an overcharge/over oil (the previous can of refrigerant had oil added) contributed to the failure of the clutch?
 
Common on these Hondas. Engage the clutch and knock it in. Often done with it running but ya gotta be creative to not kill yourself or damage something.

You may just need to remove a shim.

And a set of import manifold gauges ain't that expensive. You're flying blind right now....

If it worked briefly after charging then stopped, you may just have a significant leak.
 
Apply +12VDC to the clutch connector to see if it engages. These cars don't like having higher than required refrigerant levels in their AC systems.
 
Do not jump the clutch with the engine running. That can cause an overpressure which will pop the relief valve (or blow a hose) because the condenser fans do not know to start.

It is OK to jump clutch to the battery with the engine stopped. If it doesn't pull in, press the clutch plate toward the pulley (engine NOT running of course) and if that makes it snap down you need to do what @D60 said and remove shim(s) to adjust the gap.
 
I'd just verify it's being triggered electrically while running, then get creative to knock it in with a broomstick or rubber mallet, etc.

If it engages with a little help and starts blowing cold, your gap is almost surely the problem. I recently did this on a 2nd Gen Ram.

But yeah, it's not exactly safe so be careful and don't do anything you're not comfortable with.
 
mk378 said:
Do not jump the clutch with the engine running. That can cause an overpressure which will pop the relief valve (or blow a hose) because the condenser fans do not know to start.

It is OK to jump clutch to the battery with the engine stopped. If it doesn't pull in, press the clutch plate toward the pulley (engine NOT running of course) and if that makes it snap down you need to do what @D60 said and remove shim(s) to adjust the gap.
Click to expand...
+1-Best way to do it is apply power with the engine OFF & listen for a click. Or switch the meter to ohms & see if the coil is open.
 
Ifixyawata said:
So I took ownership of my 2004 Accord a few years ago. When I started driving it the A/C didn't blow cold. A few pulls from a Wal-Mart can of R134a got the A/C working and blowing cold again. A couple problem free years later and early this summer it became clear the A/C wasn't working again. I figured, no major issue, probably a very slow leak. I added refrigerant on my lunch break one day, watching the gauge on the can/hose and once it hit the 'green' range I stopped. When I checked the vent temperature it didn't seem to be too cold, so I added an additional amount and called it good. Before the end of my 30 minute lunch break the A/C had switched back to blowing hot and the compressor would no longer engage. I tried bleeding some refrigerant off (bad idea, I know) and still nothing would get the A/C compressor running again.

Fast forward to yesterday, I had an opportunity to do some checking and I found that, it seems the A/C compressor clutch, despite receiving 12v while running with A/C on. I tried also sending 12/v to the compressor clutch and no clicking or engagement resulted.

Now, I'm not opposed to replacing the clutch since it definitely seems faulty but is it possible that an overcharge/over oil (the previous can of refrigerant had oil added) contributed to the failure of the clutch?
Click to expand...

I went through the pain of changing the clutch on my 2008 CRV and I wouldn't do it again. Just buy a new compressor and vac/recharge. I changed the clutch on the car and didn't unhook it and it was a pain. Also it turned out it wasn't the clutch itself but another temp sensor on the compressor that can kill power to the clutch if it thinks the compressor is to hot.. A real Denso compressor isn't that expensive ($180 on rockauto).
 
nwjones18 said:
I went through the pain of changing the clutch on my 2008 CRV and I wouldn't do it again. Just buy a new compressor and vac/recharge. I changed the clutch on the car and didn't unhook it and it was a pain. Also it turned out it wasn't the clutch itself but another temp sensor on the compressor that can kill power to the clutch if it thinks the compressor is to hot.. A real Denso compressor isn't that expensive ($180 on rockauto).
Click to expand...

GMBoy said:
Replace the compressor, it comes with the clutch and It's 20 years old.
Click to expand...
I like the idea of replacing the compressor entirely a bit better, that should alleviate the concern about too much oil.

I may not have mentioned it clearly but I did testing on the clutch both with it running and without running. Didn't hear a click or anything when applying voltage to the A/C clutch wire. I basically only started it to make sure that, if the call for A/C was there, it was sending 12v to the compressor clutch. My first test was a jumper from battery positive to the clutch, although to be sure I might try this test again while tapping on the clutch to see if it's just a shim issue.

Right now, though, leaning towards compressor replacement as I'm glad to see I can get manifold gauges and a vacuum pump as loaner tools.
 
Ifixyawata said:
I like the idea of replacing the compressor entirely a bit better, that should alleviate the concern about too much oil.

I may not have mentioned it clearly but I did testing on the clutch both with it running and without running. Didn't hear a click or anything when applying voltage to the A/C clutch wire. I basically only started it to make sure that, if the call for A/C was there, it was sending 12v to the compressor clutch. My first test was a jumper from battery positive to the clutch, although to be sure I might try this test again while tapping on the clutch to see if it's just a shim issue.

Right now, though, leaning towards compressor replacement as I'm glad to see I can get manifold gauges and a vacuum pump as loaner tools.
Click to expand...
Try one more thing before replacement. Apply both +12V and Ground to the compressor clutch. Many electronic systems switch ground instead of 12V and this may be one of them.
 
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tcp71 said:
Try one more thing before replacement. Apply both +12V and Ground to the compressor clutch. Many electronic systems switch ground instead of 12V and this may be one of them.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure I verified that it's +12v that's switched coming in because there are 2 wires coming from the clutch, one just goes to a terminal that's bolted/grounded to the body of the compressor, but I will double check.
 
I just removed a shim on 07 CRV and it fixed the issue. Other than removing the plastic front trim, it only requires removal of the accessory belt, four bolts holding the compressor on and repositioning the compressor clutch downward to remove the clutch nut. Not sure if it is more or less complicated on your car as my CRV has a 2.4 4 cylinder. On Civics, you didn't have to remove the compressor at all to remove the clutch.

I would try that first before replacing the entire compressor. Consider it practice for replacing the compressor if you have to go that route.
 
Last edited:
Jango said:
I just removed a shim on 07 CRV and it fixed the issue. Other than removing the plastic front trim, it only requires removal of the accessory belt, four bolts holding the compressor on and repositioning the compressor clutch downward to remove the clutch nut. Not sure if it is more or less complicated on your car as my CRV has a 2.4 4 cylinder. On Civics, you didn't have to remove the compressor at all to remove the clutch.

I would try that first before replacing the entire compressor. Consider it practice for replacing the compressor if you have to go that route.
Click to expand...
I'm hopeful it's not even that involved. I saw one video on YouTube that the guy, on a same gen Accord, just removed the inner fender and then after removing the belt just took the 10mm bolt out and was able to get the clutch and pulley off.
 
I had to remove the shim on my Taurus SHO after several years. Worked like new after that. Worked good when cold but after it got hot and cycled off it would not come back on. I could usually get the engine speed down to idle to get it to kick back in.

An the fans don't necessarily need to be running when the AC is on. Most have pressure switches that turn on the fans now. At any rate my Gen Coupe has no low speed fan, just mine. When the AC high pressure is hit then the high speed fans come on. If it's got a high heat load then it cycles off the compressor and the pressure drops, repeat and recycle. Normal AC operating it bounces off the evap temp sensor at around 38F or so.
 
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