Supertech syn 15k mi; 2009 Focus 2.0L
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Originally Posted by bulwnkl
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Am I the only one not seeing the 100c kv?
I see 59.7 SUS. Do you not? That's right close to 10 cSt.
Tx for doing the math (conversion) ...
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Am I the only one not seeing the 100c kv?
I see 59.7 SUS. Do you not? That's right close to 10 cSt.
Tx for doing the math (conversion) ...
dnewton3
Staff member
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
None the less, impressive UOA. Knew ST was a capable lube.. just not 15k capable.ðŸ‘
I've run dino ST for 15k miles before in my wife's Villager VG30E. Nothing but stellar results in the UOA.
I've routinely run ST dino for 10k miles in my 4.6L Fords. Again - nothing but great results in the analysis data.
I'm running ST dino for 10k miles in my 3.5L Fords; UOAs pending after break-in.
The evidence I've seen is that, as long as the engine is otherwise in good shape, 15k miles is completely doable and wear rates continue to trend downward out to that mark. I've probably got 15k UOAs from all manner of engines and applications in my database; so much so that I've lost interest in collecting more data. The generalization is legit and proven beyond any reasonable doubt. Most any lube can easily sustain 15k miles in a well-running engine. You don't need a HM-syn lube to do it, either. Conventional lubes do just as well, overall.
None the less, impressive UOA. Knew ST was a capable lube.. just not 15k capable.ðŸ‘
I've run dino ST for 15k miles before in my wife's Villager VG30E. Nothing but stellar results in the UOA.
I've routinely run ST dino for 10k miles in my 4.6L Fords. Again - nothing but great results in the analysis data.
I'm running ST dino for 10k miles in my 3.5L Fords; UOAs pending after break-in.
The evidence I've seen is that, as long as the engine is otherwise in good shape, 15k miles is completely doable and wear rates continue to trend downward out to that mark. I've probably got 15k UOAs from all manner of engines and applications in my database; so much so that I've lost interest in collecting more data. The generalization is legit and proven beyond any reasonable doubt. Most any lube can easily sustain 15k miles in a well-running engine. You don't need a HM-syn lube to do it, either. Conventional lubes do just as well, overall.
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Honestly, that's a first for me. Hearing full dino running 10 or 15k miles. Blends maybe but full dino.. nope, never heard of this.
Then why don't formulators use grp2 base oils in EP lubes? Or do they use synthetics because they know the finished lube is gonna be used in less than perfect/ideal engines, so using a full syn affords them a measure of protection? (not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely curious)
Then why don't formulators use grp2 base oils in EP lubes? Or do they use synthetics because they know the finished lube is gonna be used in less than perfect/ideal engines, so using a full syn affords them a measure of protection? (not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely curious)
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Then why don't formulators use grp2 base oils in EP lubes? Or do they use synthetics because they know the finished lube is gonna be used in less than perfect/ideal engines, so using a full syn affords them a measure of protection? (not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely curious)
They use the cheapest thing that will meet the minimum specs. That's a combination of external specs (ILSAC GF-5, for example) and internal specs (‘we want to label the product as synthetic so we can sell it at a higher margin,' for example). IOW, if the product you're looking at is anything more than a solvent refined grp I fluid, that's because it can't pass the necessary tests without those higher grade bases.
I'm not certain whether a purely grp II based engine oil can pass all certification sequence and lab tests for any current PCMO spec in a 0Wxx grade. I think not, but not certain. A 10w30 might be doable with grp II or mostly grp II.
Some here would know. We'll see whether they say.
Then why don't formulators use grp2 base oils in EP lubes? Or do they use synthetics because they know the finished lube is gonna be used in less than perfect/ideal engines, so using a full syn affords them a measure of protection? (not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely curious)
They use the cheapest thing that will meet the minimum specs. That's a combination of external specs (ILSAC GF-5, for example) and internal specs (‘we want to label the product as synthetic so we can sell it at a higher margin,' for example). IOW, if the product you're looking at is anything more than a solvent refined grp I fluid, that's because it can't pass the necessary tests without those higher grade bases.
I'm not certain whether a purely grp II based engine oil can pass all certification sequence and lab tests for any current PCMO spec in a 0Wxx grade. I think not, but not certain. A 10w30 might be doable with grp II or mostly grp II.
Some here would know. We'll see whether they say.
I topped off with between a half quart and 3/4 qt when I changed filters at 7500 miles. I used the long and larger ST3600 filter. Had to use a bit more since the spark plug wells were filling with oil before I changed the valve cover gasket and anchored it in place with RTV. The center of the valve cover apparently does not have enough tension to keep oil from seeping through and filling the #2, #3, #4 spark plug wells! I'm talking up to the coil pack deep in oil! I got some WIX filters that are PH3600/St 3600 size for cheap on Rock Auto. I will use these for the interval instead of changing at 7500. I really want to try some Mobil1 Annual. If you ever wanted to know if it can go 20K-25K, stay tuned. If Mobil1 has a promotion I may do a 25K run after the Rotella.
dnewton3
Staff member
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Honestly, that's a first for me. Hearing full dino running 10 or 15k miles. Blends maybe but full dino.. nope, never heard of this.
Here's my thread with running 10k miles comparing syns to dino.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4389122/5
As you can see, clearly and without any doubt, the dino oils did every bit as good as the syns. That is a brand name syn lube (Peak) pitted against a lowly house brand (Rural King conventional oil; $1.59/qrt).
Proof that you don't need syns to protect an engine well, and most any oil can go FAR LONGER than most folks can allow themselves to imagine.
But hey ... why let facts and data get in the way of good ol' fashioned mythology and rhetoric???
There are other folks here that also run 10k miles or longer on conventional lubes; you're just not seeing the UOAs.
Honestly, that's a first for me. Hearing full dino running 10 or 15k miles. Blends maybe but full dino.. nope, never heard of this.
Here's my thread with running 10k miles comparing syns to dino.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4389122/5
As you can see, clearly and without any doubt, the dino oils did every bit as good as the syns. That is a brand name syn lube (Peak) pitted against a lowly house brand (Rural King conventional oil; $1.59/qrt).
Proof that you don't need syns to protect an engine well, and most any oil can go FAR LONGER than most folks can allow themselves to imagine.
But hey ... why let facts and data get in the way of good ol' fashioned mythology and rhetoric???
There are other folks here that also run 10k miles or longer on conventional lubes; you're just not seeing the UOAs.
Interesting maybe I missed it. How much Freeway driving vs. Severe service driving was done on that oil. If I was going on a long trip with mostly freeway driving I certainly would have no issues using Dino in my Toyota it was on Dino for the first 60,000 miles and its doing just fine.
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Before my last OCI I replaced my oil pan and used the black RTV so I wonder if my silicon will be elevated. I also used Supertech FS 0w20 in my Mazda however it's the skyactiv engine. Very interested in the analysis since my driving conditions have changed with much less highway driving.
Deleted. No point.
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