Excellent points Brian especially about the use of HDEO's in the south.
Supertech 10w-30 synthetic
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Howdy neighbor! I can legally say that as I'm half Texan! LOL, I hope no one accuses me of being a Castrol Tection plant now. I am really interested in diesel oil as an alternative to pricier synth for my turbo Saab. The spec sheets show that the Tection has a higher flash point than the M1 EP I was using and I think I remember it having a higher TBN. I also noticed that the HDEO seemed to work much more effectively at cleaning out insoluables in my second arx clean cycle than M1 EP did in my first.
My oil light does stay on maybe a second longer with the 15W40 in the a.m. when I first crank the cold engine but that doesn't really take into account the fact that there's probably a thicker film and more antiwear additives. Besides, after that initial cold crank, I do an hour commute at 75 mph! I MAY consider mixing my Tection w/ Pennzoil Plat for all around goodness!
Oh boy, I hope I didn't just turn this into one of those long, drawn out thick oil/thin oil threads!
My oil light does stay on maybe a second longer with the 15W40 in the a.m. when I first crank the cold engine but that doesn't really take into account the fact that there's probably a thicker film and more antiwear additives. Besides, after that initial cold crank, I do an hour commute at 75 mph! I MAY consider mixing my Tection w/ Pennzoil Plat for all around goodness!
Oh boy, I hope I didn't just turn this into one of those long, drawn out thick oil/thin oil threads!
Ok so, who is making the Supertech oil for Walmart?
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What I don't understand is how some folks think nothing about spending $25K on a truck, then nickel & dime making their oil/gasoline brand selections.
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What I don't understand is how some folks think nothing about spending $25K on a truck, then nickel & dime making their oil/gasoline brand selections.
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Everyone note! He got rid of the 279k car. He's asking about his 05 Silverado and whether to go from Havoline 5W30 to a group III Supertech Synth (not quite nickel and diming it) or Rotella T Synth 5W40 or good ol' dino Rotella 15W40.
Personally, I think I'd go for the oil that has both synth qualities and stout additive pack, the Rotella 5W40. I know it's not the end all/be all of synths, but it is a group III and does have the HDEO qualities.
Personally, I think I'd go for the oil that has both synth qualities and stout additive pack, the Rotella 5W40. I know it's not the end all/be all of synths, but it is a group III and does have the HDEO qualities.
Thanks for all the replies. I guess that is why they make chocolate and vanilla. People have a choice and of course money has something to do with it. I will give you my reason for the post.
I assume our gov. has regulations on pretty much everything and if you look on all the bottles there is a rating on them. I believe and correct me if I'm wrong that all these vehicles on the road would want the oil to fall into one or more of the ratings on the bottle. Now my thought was that if the cheaper priced "Synthetics" like Supertech has the rating that it should then it should do what the rating is on the bottle in the first place. If what is in the bottle didn't qualify for the rating why would it have that rating on it? So in effect the rating on the cheaper oil doesn't measure up to the "same" rating on the expensive oil. So the expensive oil should have a different rating which it doesn't. I have heard that oil is oil. But I believe it isn't. I think what makes one different from one to another is the additive package. Hence the higher so called cost. But like I thought if twenty different oils have to same rating than shouldn't those twenty different oils basically do the same as each other? Thats where the OCI would come into play between the cheaper and more expensive oils. I just thought that I would rather have clean untarnish oil every 6000 miles from a "Synthetic" Than have dirty looking oil in it until 12000 miles. Thats why I thought the cheaper one changed twice as often would be better in the long run than the more costly one changed half as much. Tell me if I'm wrong here. Looks like opened up a can of worms but thats how we learn what is better.
Thanks
Butch
I assume our gov. has regulations on pretty much everything and if you look on all the bottles there is a rating on them. I believe and correct me if I'm wrong that all these vehicles on the road would want the oil to fall into one or more of the ratings on the bottle. Now my thought was that if the cheaper priced "Synthetics" like Supertech has the rating that it should then it should do what the rating is on the bottle in the first place. If what is in the bottle didn't qualify for the rating why would it have that rating on it? So in effect the rating on the cheaper oil doesn't measure up to the "same" rating on the expensive oil. So the expensive oil should have a different rating which it doesn't. I have heard that oil is oil. But I believe it isn't. I think what makes one different from one to another is the additive package. Hence the higher so called cost. But like I thought if twenty different oils have to same rating than shouldn't those twenty different oils basically do the same as each other? Thats where the OCI would come into play between the cheaper and more expensive oils. I just thought that I would rather have clean untarnish oil every 6000 miles from a "Synthetic" Than have dirty looking oil in it until 12000 miles. Thats why I thought the cheaper one changed twice as often would be better in the long run than the more costly one changed half as much. Tell me if I'm wrong here. Looks like opened up a can of worms but thats how we learn what is better.
Thanks
Butch
Brian, My spelling is so bad.. Sorry.
But it is good oil and will do the job of course!
Wrong.
Please prove the Superior Protection. I've had many engines that are still running using under a $1 quart oil and are clean inside, pass any smog that gets thrown at them and drive just like they were new.
This is on outfits with hundereds of thousands of miles. One has 260k. Another has 225k. Another has 160k. Not one has seen GC. Or syn. Just oil changes every 4-5k and most of them Fram filters.
Oil 20 years ago was not as good as today. FI is better than carbs. Oil is better today.
If I can run an outfit 160k on under $1 a quart oil that met 10 years ago oil spec, just think how long (or how EASY) it will be with todays oils!
Sorry to rant, but this Syn will make your engine cleaner and protect better does not get alot of belief in my mind.
Why?
Cause I've proven it.
At temps below zero and above hundred. With out UOAs. Just changing oil and filter folks.
Ok, lets take a simple car. My Toyota Corolla.
27k in a year. Must change oil every 5k. (warrenty)
(if your outfit uses more oil per oil change or gets worst MPG, your numbers will be higher)
So 27k per year is 6.75 Oil changes per year at 4k per OCI using dino.
If you use Syn then it's 5.25 Oil changes per year.
Me and my " nickel & dime " mindset uses $2.07 supertech oil filters and to keep it fair, Lets buy our oil at Wal-mart for $9 for a 5 quart Havoline jug. (look I spelled it right!)
So thats $1.80 per quart. $1.80 per quart times 4 quarts is $7.20 plus our $2.07 for a filter for a total of $9.27 for the oil change.
Mobil 1 is $20 for a 5 quart jug. $4 a quart. Let's say we want the best filter so that would be $11 for a Mobil 1 filter. Because why spend $15k for your Corolla and " nickel & dime " your oil filter choice??
So, $16 for the oil and $11 for the filter is $27.
Using dino is $62.57 for 6.75 OCI and Syn is $141.75. Difference is only $79.18.
Ok, Lets be a little " nickel & dime " and go to a $5 filter. $21 for the Syn and $5 filter for a total of $21. That dropped the diff to only $47.68.
Now, alot of folks buy the Top Tier gas because it makes better power, gets you better MPG and keeps the injectors cleaner. It's only 10cents a gallon more here for the Top Tier gas over the garbage gas.
I've run garbage gas and never had a injector off on ANY outfit I've owned. Using Top Tier gas in my Corolla, I saw the same MPG as I received using the "cheap" gas .
But, I'm a " nickel & dime " type of guy. How much have I really saved?
27k @ 40mpg = 675 gallons of gas per year.
675 gallons times the " nickel & dime " & " it's only 10 stinking cents difference "(my wife quote)
So, in one year the difference between using cheap gas and cheap oil is only $146.68.
Thats in 27k worth of miles.
How about 200k? $1086
Your right. It blows me away why folks " nickel & dime " away $1086 in oil, filters and gas.
And in the end, we both will be at the 200k with well protected engines that run fine.
And, if we did the above using an outfit like my 20 mpg truck, it's really a MAJOR number.
Sorry to have to go through this again as I have in the past , but their are new members who need to see how some of us think.
I've done the talk and walked the walk. I drive alot more than most and have outfits that I've owned still on the road (most of my used cars are bought by friends and family so I get to keep tabs on them as they get along in years).
Also the above is using retail prices. I buy oil for well under a $1 per quart so the difference is much bigger. Even if you get your Syn for $2 you will need to run it much longer to be the same cost and still, I'll have a well protected engine that will be around 200+k miles.
And alot more "nickels & dimes" in my pocket!
Take care all, Bill
PS: Though I would not own a Force fed outfit, I do think that a good Syn Blend or Syn is needed. But you'll pay more for it. And change your oil often even with Syn in engines with a Turbo.
"only $47.68 a year"
You guys who only maintain one car have it SO easy. I maintain 5 or 6 cars, that's a bit more money per year for me. Over time, heck, any given car after five years could benefit from a $250 shop service/repairs verses $250 in Pretty Boy Brand oil.
You guys who only maintain one car have it SO easy. I maintain 5 or 6 cars, that's a bit more money per year for me. Over time, heck, any given car after five years could benefit from a $250 shop service/repairs verses $250 in Pretty Boy Brand oil.
I own 2 cars and maintain another 4 for the family. So I agree that it's quite a bit of $$ saved.
I hope that is what I tried to show above.
Others will just spend for the "best".
The problem is it's not going to make a difference if you spend $2 a quart or $5 a quart for the oil if your changing it every 3 or 5k miles.
And if your spending $5 for the quart of oil, you need to take it out well past 10k miles (which few around BITOG do and 99% of the public do NOT) to make it cost effective. And you add in the under $1 deals for oil that pop up here and there, it's even a bigger number.
Take care, Bill
When you go to the doctors office do you ask to see what gpa the doctor graduated with? Pretty doubtful. All you know is he got the certificate and is certified. He could have had the lowest gpa in his class and only graduated by crying to his professors to give him a passing grade.
So...until people start showing me engine failures or gunked up engines WGAF what brand the oil is or what the price is. If it meets the requirement then it meets it.
I don't believe that too many people on this forum are driving race cars that are revving in redline the majority of the time.
So...until people start showing me engine failures or gunked up engines WGAF what brand the oil is or what the price is. If it meets the requirement then it meets it.
I don't believe that too many people on this forum are driving race cars that are revving in redline the majority of the time.
Bill I can not agree with you more you have said it all.
bruce
bruce
It depends. SOmetimes the additive pack can make all the difference. Yes, the American Petroleum Institute seal verifies that the oil meets certain standards for the SL or SM label. But whether a company conforably meets those requirements or just eaks by is not going to be known. But any oil that meets SL or SM should be okay. I wouldn't underestimate Supertech BUT a good additive package can really help sometimes, depending on the engine.
Triple_Se7en >>>"What I don't understand is how some folks think nothing about spending $25K on a truck, then nickel & dime making their oil/gasoline brand selections.
What I don't understand is why this makes sense.
You'd think the buyer of the truck was wasteful if he paid $50K for that $25K truck. Why does tbmmbt need to spend $3 or $5 a gt for the protection he get for $1.50 with Havoline.
What I don't understand is why this makes sense.
You'd think the buyer of the truck was wasteful if he paid $50K for that $25K truck. Why does tbmmbt need to spend $3 or $5 a gt for the protection he get for $1.50 with Havoline.
LOL, the only problem w/ the doctor who graduated last in his class (unless it's a very good med school) is that he probably had to go to a residency program in B.F.E. and specialize in something he never intended to!
I can tell you my model car has had a lot on failures on dino and synth blend SL oils. Pure synths seem to be the only ones somewhat immune. I'm tempting fate and trying an HDEO instead.
I can tell you my model car has had a lot on failures on dino and synth blend SL oils. Pure synths seem to be the only ones somewhat immune. I'm tempting fate and trying an HDEO instead.
going back to the topic....... Has anyone ever gotten a VOA on supertech syn. I've used it in my truck mostly because it says it has "high mileage additives" and seal conditioners. I was just wondering if it really did.
I am using it now. I have no complaints with the Supertech synthetic. I say go for it. I was at WW this weekend just to look, and I saw they had a new shipment of ST and PP in. $12.00 for a 5 quart jug of ST. I had to buy 3 along with 4 PPjugs and 5 single quart bottles. My G_O_D!!! I have the dreaded "OIL COLLECTING DISEASE"!!!
Wal-Mart's SuperTech 5w30 Full Synth VOA:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000209
Unfortunately, it looks like the image of the VOA is no longer online.
Bill in Utah: When you refer to "outfit" I know you're talking about a car/truck, but what is the derivation of the term "outfit" as it pertains to a vehicle? Is this a regional term? I've never heard anyone around here refer to their car/truck as an "outfit" before. Just curious.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000209
Unfortunately, it looks like the image of the VOA is no longer online.
It's a regional term...
Cliff in Idaho
Cliff in Idaho
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