Suggestions for cheaper Pickup

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Originally Posted By: cchase
The simple reality is that rust has consumed nearly every single T100 in the Northeast, while lots of domestic trucks soldier on, visible on the roads every day.

I'm not making a statement about any other aspect of the vehicles other than the rust.

15 years ago T100's were still everywhere, they're GONE today. They rust out in salt areas, washing the undercarriage or not.


Bingo, no offense but WV doesn't have a winter.

Power wash an undercarriage when its 0 degrees outside? Good luck doing that.

My Toyota dealer has lots of the newer trucks in parts as they are waiting for chassis to show up. All the older ones turned to dust.

The fact of the matter is until very recently Toyota did [censored] poor rustproofing on their trucks. The domestic manufactures figured it out pretty good in the late 80's early 90's. A lot of them still running around with rockers gone but the frames pretty good still.

The flip side is that any Toyota truck that someone brought up from a salt free state that's still nice is priced as if its made of solid gold. Last one I saw for sale was a 1996 with a regular cab and 8ft bed, and it was priced with 150k on it at $8k....I can buy a 2007 Chevy with under 50k miles on it for that kind of money. They almost always seem to be priced within a few bucks of a decade younger domestic.
 
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2000 Chevy. GM completely redesigned the Chevy with a partial run in 1999, so a late '99 or any 2000 model gives you the "new at the time" generation truck. Remember the "bigger, faster, smarter, stronger" advertizing.

Same situation for a '02 & up Ram, or an '04 Ford, although that late of a model might be hard to find at the price you said.

Diesels are great, IF you need the power. Too expensive fuel and repairs for my taste, though. Target a 2000 Chevy.
 
Almost every time I encounter a diesel truck in your price range, the engine keeps turning, but everything else on the truck needs work.

Transmissions that could fail anytime, dented and rusted bodies, electrical glitches, windows that don't work, A/C isn't cold, seats torn apart, and the dashboard is either peeled up or shattered.
 
Again who you guys fooling?


Our area in WV had nearly 100" 's of snowfall this past winter. It is the Mountain State. LINK

Meanwhile in CT, hattaresguy, just the facts please :-) LINK

Oh and BTW I grew up in the northeast(family still live there) and have a home in NJ, WV & WI, still looking for a cabin in Alaska for fishing. (G** Bless America!) I can tell you the Hmong community love their Toyotas in the upper Midwest (Dakotas, MN, WI, IL, MI). They seem to drive them into the ground and again I have seen plenty of late model Toyota T100s throughout the upper Midwest still "soldier"(ing) on. But I won't deny that they do in fact rust.

Again all(vehicles) PU trucks rust; rust does NOT discriminate.
 
Originally Posted By: GenSan
Again all(vehicles) PU trucks rust; rust does NOT discriminate.

i believe rust does discriminate. one classic example of a vehicle rusting out before its peer vehicles is the vega of the 70's, and the jeep cj5/7 of the 70's/80/s. i know jeep fixed the rust problem with the new wrangler with galvanized zink dipped panels.

now why did the tacoma and early tundras have rust recalls on the frame when other manufactures did not? the articles i read was because: the ingredients of the metal used in the frames and the coatings on the finished frame product, which i hear has been corrected. and we aren't even mentioning design factors that accelerate or retard rust.
 
The suits at Toyota should commit Seppuku
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for allowing a Toledo, OH based co., Dana Holding Corporation, to produce the Tacoma, and Tundra/Sequoia frames without being "properly prepped" for anti-corrosion. ARTICLE
 
Yep,

This is ultimately a decision that is up to the OP. But the odds don't favor old Toyota trucks in the "rust belt".

GenSan, don't confuse snowfall with salt application. Much of the country west of the Mississippi uses little to no salt on their roads, even in heavy snowfall areas.

I am 100% confident that even CT uses far, far more salt than WV.
 
Cchase - Maybe I'm the only owner w/ Toyotas that sees brined roads from the East Coast to the West Coast and still has a sound, rust-free frame. I am meticulous about power washings throughout the winter and having Rust Check treatments. So maybe that is the only variable keeping our Toyotas rust-free.

I'm not your average car owner who feels vehicles are a disposable commodity. I learned from from Pops to buy a reputable vehicle brand new and run it into the ground. With proper maintenance and good oil
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Yes, rust does discriminate. When you tell the frame manufacturer that anti-corrosion measures are not necessary ... the frame rusts out pretty quick.

Those old T100s had a good engine and the venerable AW-4. I'd consider one ... but I live in the rustbelt.
 
Gensan, you may not be the average car owner, but the OP in this thread is looking for an inexpensive used pickup truck.

As hatterasguy pointed out, with older Toyota trucks you are limited. Either the trucks are gone, which is the case in many areas of the country, or they go for huge money because they're extremely uncommon. Either way, it's likely not a good choice for one wanting a "cheaper pickup".

For what it's worth, you inspired me to look up salt loading per mile of road. Illinois is listed at 6.6 tons/mile of road and West Virginia is 6.3 tons/mile. In comparison, New England (where hatterasguy and I have experience) shows Massachusetts at 19.4 tons/mile, New Hampshire at 16.4 tons/mile, and Vermont at 17.1 tons/mile.
 
I do agree that keeping the underside of any vehicle clean in the winter is of utmost importance.

And, relevant to the topic, it's a great area to check out on any truck since if the frame rails are going or gone, the truck is worthless.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase
Gensan, you may not be the average car owner, but the OP in this thread is looking for an inexpensive used pickup truck.

As hatterasguy pointed out, with older Toyota trucks you are limited. Either the trucks are gone, which is the case in many areas of the country, or they go for huge money because they're extremely uncommon. Either way, it's likely not a good choice for one wanting a "cheaper pickup".

For what it's worth, you inspired me to look up salt loading per mile of road. Illinois is listed at 6.6 tons/mile of road and West Virginia is 6.3 tons/mile. In comparison, New England (where hatterasguy and I have experience) shows Massachusetts at 19.4 tons/mile, New Hampshire at 16.4 tons/mile, and Vermont at 17.1 tons/mile.


Yeah my friend lives out west and they hardly salt their roads at all.

Up here municipalities have big budgets and want to keep it that way, so they pre treat the roads if their is a threat of snow. After a snow fall its not uncommon for the roads to literally be white.

Which is why suspension work on an older vehicle always involves a torch.
 
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When buying a $3-$5K pickup, condition always matters most. Not brand, not the engine, not the transmission. In that price range, a T-100 can and will be just as big of a pile as anything else.

Really, when shopping at that low of a price, it's usually the stuff with poor resale value that wins. Maybe you can find some old guy's rust free 3.9L V6 Ram with a manual transmission that never hauled anything and only has 80K miles on it, and a hole in the dashboard. A hole in the dashboard is still better than no frame, a failing transmission, or totally shot suspension and tires.

"What's the best pickup for $3-$5K?" really has the same answer as "what's the best luxury car for $3-$5K?". The one that's the least torn up.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
When buying a $3-$5K pickup, condition always matters most. Not brand, not the engine, not the transmission. In that price range, a T-100 can and will be just as big of a pile as anything else.

Really, when shopping at that low of a price, it's usually the stuff with poor resale value that wins. Maybe you can find some old guy's rust free 3.9L V6 Ram with a manual transmission that never hauled anything and only has 80K miles on it, and a hole in the dashboard. A hole in the dashboard is still better than no frame, a failing transmission, or totally shot suspension and tires.

"What's the best pickup for $3-$5K?" really has the same answer as "what's the best luxury car for $3-$5K?". The one that's the least torn up.


That's a great way of putting it, thanks.
 
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