Originally Posted By: SR5
Hi Joe90-guy,
Welcome, its good to have you around. I've been enjoying hearing your view, both here and in the Euro Oil section with the HTHSv xW30 Vs xW40 thread.
I'm fairly new here myself, but I don't work in oil like you. However I do work in a lab (civy job) and spend many hours a week worrying about organics, vacuum, temperature and volatility. What you say rings true to me. Relatively small changes in temperature eg 50 deg C, can have a large effect on the amount and rate at which a light phase in a fairly stable organic mixture is mobilized.
I recall somebody else in another thread, was commenting about deposits in GDI engines, and according to their meta-analysis, changing the oil more frequently (a typical response to engine & oil problems) made the deposit problem worse. Their reasoning was that you were replenishing the light volatile components more frequently and thus making the problem worse.
My advice to the OP:
Run a thicker oil !!
But, I'm Australian, so this is my advice to most problems.
Whenever I have had an engine that used oil, but didn't leak oil, I always run a thicker oil, and it always helps. I like to go up in both numbers, so if your starting oil is a 5W20, then I would prefer a 10W30 over a 5W30. I realize it's not that simple sometimes, you may live in a very cold climate, plus I consider a A5/B5 5W30 to be a lighter oil than a A3/B3 5W30.
I've been sipping the Kool-Aid on the HDEO as PCMO thread. Have you considered a mixed fleet 15W40 HDEO ?
BTW if your Honda isn't using enough oil, trade it for an old mitsubishi, that'll sort you out.
Changing to a
thicker xxW-40 oil from OEM's xxW-30 , and occasionally to 20W-50 from xxW-
40 , appears to be
'the' way here in the tropics , to overcome engine oil consumption
problem ............ which works most the time .
I think it'll work for OP.