Looks very good. Thank You2014 Subaru Outback in signature. In use for 3,232 miles, ~10 months.
Old: 5 quarts M1 0w-40, Subaru 15208AA20A (Made in Indonesia)
New: 5 quarts Valvoline R&P 5w-30, Carquest Premium 84712
Everything looked great, no issues.
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I've seen Whip City pictures of the media , not good , basically a screen door .Anyone know the filtering specs of this Subaru filter?
'I' take WCW microscopic views with a grain of salt, but in the absence of a rating it is some kind of guide to efficiency. And that the Subaru OEM not very efficient would be in line with other Asian OEM filters like Toyota and Honda.I've seen Whip City pictures of the media , not good , basically a screen door .
The Toyota filters are much better. The Roki was excessive with pores. I have been looking at media myself. I just put a Toyota on, not worried about it. Even I who thinks circulation means a particle is not likely hitting a pore the second time around, thought the Roki looked like cheese cloth. If the particle load is high like they do on the official tests, particles will always be finding pores each circulation. So more open filters score poorly.'I' take WCW microscopic views with a grain of salt, but in the absence of a rating it is some kind of guide to efficiency. And that the Subaru OEM not very efficient would be in line with other Asian OEM filters like Toyota and Honda.
I think if the OP was to do a burn test on the adbv, if same filter as WCW c&p it would test as silicone. With the Toyota Denso OEM only the second known exception to black adbv being nitrile.
Topic Suby OEM looks fine. Thanks for c&p.
I think if the OP was to do a burn test on the adbv, if same filter as WCW c&p it would test as silicone. With the Toyota Denso OEM only the second known exception to black adbv being nitrile.
Full flow filters are not supposed to clean oil. They are supposed to remove the engine damaging abrasives from the full flow of oil to the engine parts. To remove the smaller engine wearing abrasives you must drain the oil or install a depth bypass filter.The Toyota filters are much better. The Roki was excessive with pores. I have been looking at media myself. I just put a Toyota on, not worried about it. Even I who thinks circulation means a particle is not likely hitting a pore the second time around, thought the Roki looked like cheese cloth. If the particle load is high like they do on the official tests, particles will always be finding pores each circulation. So more open filters score poorly.
As far as Toyota filters the media has changed on the one I use, so there is no lab standard efficiency rating.
I have to add I haven’t seen any light spots, or visible pores, on Fram media. Haven’t looked at but a couple though. Of course media threads can be porous and still show no light spots but there are paths through the media.
I guess people have been saying that since oil filters were invented. I know bypass filters became popular in the 1950’s. Full flow filters do clean oil, but I understand your context, not supposed to micro clean the oil. Not as well as bypass filters. But the Roki was very porous looking.Full flow filters are not supposed to clean oil. They are supposed to remove the engine damaging abrasives from the full flow of oil to the engine parts. To remove the smaller engine wearing abrasives you must drain the oil or install a depth bypass filter.
The current silicone Denso adbv is a glossy black and has the letters ARS on them. Looking this up it’s a Japanese rubber company. Probably very high quality. Not sure the old Toyota filters had silicone, maybe, but the rubber is not as shiny looking. They had this greenish color on the N1, but now they are black. Both say ARS.I can burn it and report back.
Refresh my memory, white smoke is silicon, black smoke is nitrile rubber correct?