So when I replaced my struts awhile back the one strut mount bearing was bad. I replaced the whole assembly 3 months later it started squeaking so I replaced it again and had the front alignment done again well now 4 months later its squeaking again. What would cause this. The last one looked fine when taken out just squeaked. What should I do?
strut mount AGAIN!!!
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Car runs great. Its not the car its [censored] Chinese parts.
Think you may have answered your own question.
Not sure about your application specifically but is there a dust cover you can remove to get some lube in there?
Not sure about your application specifically but is there a dust cover you can remove to get some lube in there?
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: gomes512
Think you may have answered your own question.
Not sure about your application specifically but is there a dust cover you can remove to get some lube in there?
+1. Chinese parts say it all. Penny wise and pound foolish.
If the place where the strut's damper rod comes through is exposed, so you can see the bearing, it is likely smart to pack it with grease.
Think you may have answered your own question.
Not sure about your application specifically but is there a dust cover you can remove to get some lube in there?
+1. Chinese parts say it all. Penny wise and pound foolish.
If the place where the strut's damper rod comes through is exposed, so you can see the bearing, it is likely smart to pack it with grease.
Well I'm going to use my big light and replace it tonight . It'll be cooler out. I'm buying a Monroe mount this time. I bought the cheapies because of the life time warranty. Big mistake. Some cheaper stuff is OK I guess but not master pro strut mounts. what is the best way to do it again without screwing the alignment up?
The strut tops (bearings) fell apart on My Mazda 626 with << 20k miles. WT hey?! Also the intake tube split. Junk Ford suppliers. Just make sure you're not way over on tire pressure. the Tires are the first part of a suspension.
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I didnt used to have trouble with master pro but here lately I haven't been thrilled with the quality
. My tires are at 35lbs. And the otherside is original and still works fine. Imagine that.
. My tires are at 35lbs. And the otherside is original and still works fine. Imagine that.
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
I don't know. But, man, you sure have a string of issues documented here on BITOG.
I hope your vehicle issues cease soon.
Chevyboy14 posts are exciting reading. If he does't have at least three threads going at once, I begin to grow worried.
I don't know. But, man, you sure have a string of issues documented here on BITOG.
I hope your vehicle issues cease soon.
Chevyboy14 posts are exciting reading. If he does't have at least three threads going at once, I begin to grow worried.
Originally Posted By: R2d2
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
I don't know. But, man, you sure have a string of issues documented here on BITOG.
I hope your vehicle issues cease soon.
Chevyboy14 posts are exciting reading. If he does't have at least three threads going at once, I begin to grow worried.
Black cloud.
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
I don't know. But, man, you sure have a string of issues documented here on BITOG.
I hope your vehicle issues cease soon.
Chevyboy14 posts are exciting reading. If he does't have at least three threads going at once, I begin to grow worried.
Black cloud.
Thanks^^ glad I'm exciting. I guess I could just not post . I only do because it helps me and others. And I'm kinda like that guy in the song by brad paisley so much cooler online. Except I'm not fat and I would never drive and old Hyundai . Lol. Seriously though I havent had any car issues lately. I've had stupid people issues and bad part issues. Cars themselves haven't been an issue. I don't understand how if I take it apart it looks fine but it just started squeaking for no reason. Is there a way to do the mount without screwing the alignment up?
I recently bought some moog front upper mounts and well to put it bluntly they sucked. The bearing was supposed to be crimped in so it didnt clunk about but guess what neither one was. I took a hammer and a brass drift and made one work but slipped on the second one and killed the bearing. I figured moog would be the best I could get other than factory.
I bought Monroe today and it looked and felt pretty good . I hope it works better than the master [censored].
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Is there a way to do the mount without screwing the alignment up?
To replace the mount, no, but you could minimize the alignment change if you lock the brake and use a camber saver tool. The camber saver tool attaches either to the hub or brake rotor using a magnet or to a wheel stud using a set screw. It has two perpendicular bubble levels that can be adjusted to center. Center these before loosening the strut bolts. When you are ready to tighten the strut down, you just move whatever around slightly to make sure the levels still read center. The brakes must remain locked the whole time. Locking the brakes with a stick can cause the battery to run down unless you defeat the brake lights in some way or put a charger on the battery. If you do this your camber will be the same when you're done and as such your toe will be fairly close. Fairly close means you can drive it for a while, but you'll still need to get an alignment before too long to prevent excessive tire wear.
There is a way you can lube (not replace) the bearing portion of the strut mount without losing the alignment. Unfortunately, it is quite dangerous. If you lived just down the road I'd be willing to walk you through it, but to explain it on an Internet forum and hope you don't kill yourself would be irresponsible.
Is there a way to do the mount without screwing the alignment up?
To replace the mount, no, but you could minimize the alignment change if you lock the brake and use a camber saver tool. The camber saver tool attaches either to the hub or brake rotor using a magnet or to a wheel stud using a set screw. It has two perpendicular bubble levels that can be adjusted to center. Center these before loosening the strut bolts. When you are ready to tighten the strut down, you just move whatever around slightly to make sure the levels still read center. The brakes must remain locked the whole time. Locking the brakes with a stick can cause the battery to run down unless you defeat the brake lights in some way or put a charger on the battery. If you do this your camber will be the same when you're done and as such your toe will be fairly close. Fairly close means you can drive it for a while, but you'll still need to get an alignment before too long to prevent excessive tire wear.
There is a way you can lube (not replace) the bearing portion of the strut mount without losing the alignment. Unfortunately, it is quite dangerous. If you lived just down the road I'd be willing to walk you through it, but to explain it on an Internet forum and hope you don't kill yourself would be irresponsible.
^^ thanks that is great information . I just got done doing it though and used a tire crayon and a ruler. She is straight so I guess it was good enough. Noise is gone to
darn cheap parts.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Well I'm going to use my big light and replace it tonight . It'll be cooler out. I'm buying a Monroe mount this time. I bought the cheapies because of the life time warranty. Big mistake. Some cheaper stuff is OK I guess but not master pro strut mounts. what is the best way to do it again without screwing the alignment up?
Too bad you already did it (and probably screwed the alignment up), but next time you can take the entire knuckle out with the strut still attached. Compressed the spring, swap the mount, and reassemble. Then put the whole thing back into the car.
Well I'm going to use my big light and replace it tonight . It'll be cooler out. I'm buying a Monroe mount this time. I bought the cheapies because of the life time warranty. Big mistake. Some cheaper stuff is OK I guess but not master pro strut mounts. what is the best way to do it again without screwing the alignment up?
Too bad you already did it (and probably screwed the alignment up), but next time you can take the entire knuckle out with the strut still attached. Compressed the spring, swap the mount, and reassemble. Then put the whole thing back into the car.
Considering it drives dead straight and feels good and all the marks line up I'm going to go with its probably ok .
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Considering it drives dead straight and feels good and all the marks line up I'm going to go with its probably ok .
I doubt it, as enough negative camber and toe-in will make it drive OK. I've removed struts before and had an alignment done right after, and found a change of at least 0.15 deg of toe each time, even if the steering wheel was fairly straight.
Considering it drives dead straight and feels good and all the marks line up I'm going to go with its probably ok .
I doubt it, as enough negative camber and toe-in will make it drive OK. I've removed struts before and had an alignment done right after, and found a change of at least 0.15 deg of toe each time, even if the steering wheel was fairly straight.
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