Easy fix on a Scotts (JD) S2554 carb turned into a project. Fuel solenoid didn't work so I took the plunger out and when I reinstalled it I heard a snap/click, looked underneath and saw a large washer that was not there before. It was the bottom of the cast float bowl itself. The carb is discontinued and so far I can't find a new/used one. Looking at the tensile strength of JB Weld I would like to use something stronger and fuel resistant. Any recommendations?
Stronger Than JB Weld? JD Cast Float Bowl Repair
- Thread starter Quadrasteer
- Start date
There look to be a number of knock-off's available and, while not ideal and a bit distasteful, they should work. I've had to go that route on some old equipment.
That said, a thick layer of JB should be fine with the biggest challenge being the surface prep and getting a good bond. I'd try the JB Tank Weld or equivalent and really clean and rough up the surfaces using coarse emery paper or a wire brush. I haven't done a fuel bowl, but have done this repair on other pot metal items. Never looks pretty, but has worked.
That said, a thick layer of JB should be fine with the biggest challenge being the surface prep and getting a good bond. I'd try the JB Tank Weld or equivalent and really clean and rough up the surfaces using coarse emery paper or a wire brush. I haven't done a fuel bowl, but have done this repair on other pot metal items. Never looks pretty, but has worked.
Whole new carb is around 50$ if you are unsuccessful.
I literally googled your "Scotts (JD) S2554 carb" and found quite a few if they are correct?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313776842823
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354357987850
I literally googled your "Scotts (JD) S2554 carb" and found quite a few if they are correct?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313776842823
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354357987850
I used the marine JB weld to fix a hot water tank in my old RV. It held heat and pressure for years until we sold the unit. I am sure it would work just fine on a carb bowl. You might also want to see if someone local has a 3D printer capable of printing in metal that could reproduce one for you.
I know, the last 3 Chinese carbs I tried didn't work out. 2 ran like crap and the other on a Generac gen didn't start at all. They were very different from the OEMs. I have one coming from Amazon, a little more $$ but easier return.
This pressure would be mechanical, pressing up on the part that broke. The bottom of the bowl broke off upward, I thought it was a large washer that I missed somehow. An easy fix until I heard the snap.
FYI about epoxies: JB weld cold-steel has a real-world tensile strength of over 5000 PSI. This is considerably higher than clear epoxies, and right in line with common aerospace epoxies such as 3M Scotch-Weld DP420 or Hysol EA 9394. Products I used regularly. I'm saying JB Weld is every bit as good, maybe better in some applications.
Yes, you could source a stronger Aerospace structural epoxy, with double the tensile strength like a $1,100 pint from Hexcel. But that's not realistic here.
Bottom line: JB Weld original is about as good as commonly available.
Yes, you could source a stronger Aerospace structural epoxy, with double the tensile strength like a $1,100 pint from Hexcel. But that's not realistic here.
Bottom line: JB Weld original is about as good as commonly available.
The fuel exposure is a big concern for that job. I don't think JB will hold up, especially over time. I would not be surprised if it failed next year.
I would use Loctite E - 20 HP. However it requires the dispensing gun, and of course the glue cartridge. It will hold up when exposed to gasoline. But if you don't have the dispensing gun in your shop and don't require using it at least once in a while, the cost of buying both is enough that you should just buy a replacement.
I would use Loctite E - 20 HP. However it requires the dispensing gun, and of course the glue cartridge. It will hold up when exposed to gasoline. But if you don't have the dispensing gun in your shop and don't require using it at least once in a while, the cost of buying both is enough that you should just buy a replacement.
Can you just swap the carb bowl from the aftermarket unit(s) to the original unit? I doubt any adhesive will hold up to the vibrations and gasoline exposure over time.
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Most quality epoxies, including JB Weld original, Marine Tex and the various 3M/Henkel products will hold up to gasoline and diesel fuel. What they have trouble with is alcohol. It takes a novolac epoxy to be alcohol resistant.
Jb seams to be very slightly pourus. In time that weakens it.
Loctite E - 20 HP is not pourus.
Also, acetone attacks some epoxies, and gasoline may contain a large number of distillation byproduct chemicals in very small quanties, including acetone.
Loctite E - 20 HP is not pourus.
Also, acetone attacks some epoxies, and gasoline may contain a large number of distillation byproduct chemicals in very small quanties, including acetone.
Yes to most of those replies...submerged for a long time and with those additives like alcohol, there are not many that could stand up to that. That's why you don't see the "proof" word, if you call and ask they say NO. Can that cast material be welded? Or can the JB be coated with something else?
E-20HP is good epoxy. Similar specs to 3M DP420. Excellent material, but NOT for bonding with gasoline exposure. I'm unaware of any adhesive that survives that environment. Polysulfide material is a gas tank sealer. It's not a bonding agent, though.
Glad I was not the one who bought the RV from you.
Why?
I told the guy up front and he was ok with it. As far as I know he is still using it and it's been almost 5 years since I sold it.