Stopping Rust
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In order to stop panel rust in specific areas, especially in the quarter panel where it meets the bumper, there is some access from behind that you can't get to unless you literally cut that part out of the car, so sanding it and repainting it with a rust inhibitor isn't going to do anything, it will come right back from behind (don't ask how I know!) but if you can sand down the affected area and also get behind it (such as a fender) you can stop the rust effectively by applying the rust inhibitor on both sides.
Kestas
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I agree. Don't bother doing any sanding and painting if you intend on continuing to use your car on salty roads. It's a waste of time. Your car will look good for maybe 12 months at most.
It's best to remove any loose scale and apply undercoating. In fact, undercoating should have been applied when the car was new, then every three years after that, or you'll be disappointed. That, or learn to ignore the rust.
It's best to remove any loose scale and apply undercoating. In fact, undercoating should have been applied when the car was new, then every three years after that, or you'll be disappointed. That, or learn to ignore the rust.
the rust inhibitor comes in a liquid and a spray-maybe the spray will be able to get in places hard to reach-it's a thick white liquid that forms a barrier not allowing oxygen to get at the rusted part-One product I know of is 'Extend'
Periodically examine underneath at all the fender liners, splash guards, etc. If a hole opens up fix it pronto, as that brackish water will eat the car from inside out.
Obversely the holes that are in the car (particularly the frame) are there for ventilation/drainage and can clog... so poke 'em free.
Rust fixing has various methodologies that border on religion... but the worst is neglect.
I use the rustoleum rusty metal primer: it's instructions say to sand off the flaky scale. I get the metal shiny but there is invariably some pitting or "grain" to the metal that hides rust. If your product says you have to get ALL the rust make sure you're capable. Otherwise select a "realist" approach that allows painting over/converting it.
Obversely the holes that are in the car (particularly the frame) are there for ventilation/drainage and can clog... so poke 'em free.
Rust fixing has various methodologies that border on religion... but the worst is neglect.
I use the rustoleum rusty metal primer: it's instructions say to sand off the flaky scale. I get the metal shiny but there is invariably some pitting or "grain" to the metal that hides rust. If your product says you have to get ALL the rust make sure you're capable. Otherwise select a "realist" approach that allows painting over/converting it.
Kestas
Staff member
Do any of you have long-term experience (>10 years) with your methods? I do. If you only plan on keeping your cars 5-7 years, it's best to do nothing. It's just not worth the effort for the results. Only a good rustproofing schedule can keep your car in good shape for the long haul. And even then it's an uphill battle. I've never seen shops selling rustproofing services for daily drivers in the Rust Belt that use POR-15, or any other type of conversion coating method. They use good old-fashioned rustproofing compound. The other stuff just can't stand up to the winter brine on a daily basis.
Solution? Move from the rust belt. It's never going to get better there. Between the weather, the economy and the crime rate, thats what lots of people do. I'll take a few infrequent earthquakes over areas with relentless heat, humidity and snow and rain anytime. Cheap housing isn't enough of a reason to stay in those areas.
Oh yea!!!!!
How about the fact that everything used in California causes cancer?
I know this because I read it on all the labels of everything I buy.
How about the fact that everything used in California causes cancer?
I know this because I read it on all the labels of everything I buy.
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