My 2002 Expedition has some pretty ferocious rust on the radiator support. I am not sure there is enough good metal left to be worth scraping off all the rust. Is there any type of rusty metal primer and/or paint on the market I can use that will stop the rusting process? This is mostly a summer vehicle and I'm just trying to stretch major body repairs out a few more years.
Stopping Rust
- Thread starter outoforder
- Start date
- Status
I'd spray it with Fluid Film available at Autozone or Amazon which should just about stop the rust in it's tracks. Get two cans to hit other areas like the shock towers, battery posts, door drains etc...
good timing, I was about to post about rust on my Sable.
I will check out fluid film.
I did see Permatex has a rust destroyer.
I will check out fluid film.
I did see Permatex has a rust destroyer.
Timely thread thread indeed, I recently sprayed my car as well. Even though the car is sprayed regularly some rust is present on the suspension components and cross members. I just wire brushed it and laid on the rustproofing.
I used this today on the Sable.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...nt-81849-detail
We shall see.
it was rusty under the Sable. I had my brake lines repaired this week after I found them leaking, they were rusted bad.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...nt-81849-detail
We shall see.
it was rusty under the Sable. I had my brake lines repaired this week after I found them leaking, they were rusted bad.
Last edited:
Yes rust does need air to spread. Plain old linseed oil works. Slowly, but it works. It makes an airtight finish when it dries. It does not really dry, it just becomes less liquid. You end up with a waxy coat that stops rust. I would take the trim panel off. Vacuum up the loose crud inside. Flood the space with linseed oil. Put something under the door to capture what leaks out so you can use it for the next coat.The stuff is cheap and nontoxic.
FF, CarWell and Krown are all known for stopping/slowing down rust. But they need to be sprayed yearly for them to be effective. They will prolong a vehicles life, but nothing is forever. And the application of the product is only aa good as the skill of the person doing the work.
Big fan of FF but haven't been using it long term yet. Just 2 seasons. On my mustang I am trying out the Rustoleum "Rust Reformer" as I have had good experiences with it on smaller applications. Certainly isn't a perfect solution but if it can notably slow down the deveopment and spread that its a win. The car is low enough that any type of viscous application will just wash off in the weather.
Originally Posted By: andyd
Yes rust does need air to spread. Plain old linseed oil works. Slowly, but it works. It makes an airtight finish when it dries. It does not really dry, it just becomes less liquid. You end up with a waxy coat that stops rust. I would take the trim panel off. Vacuum up the loose crud inside. Flood the space with linseed oil. Put something under the door to capture what leaks out so you can use it for the next coat.The stuff is cheap and nontoxic.
Actually Linseed oil and Penetrol are cost effective easy to find treatments. They would have to be applied yearly. How well they stack up against some of the other products is the big question though. I think they'd do well if properly prepared.
Yes rust does need air to spread. Plain old linseed oil works. Slowly, but it works. It makes an airtight finish when it dries. It does not really dry, it just becomes less liquid. You end up with a waxy coat that stops rust. I would take the trim panel off. Vacuum up the loose crud inside. Flood the space with linseed oil. Put something under the door to capture what leaks out so you can use it for the next coat.The stuff is cheap and nontoxic.
Actually Linseed oil and Penetrol are cost effective easy to find treatments. They would have to be applied yearly. How well they stack up against some of the other products is the big question though. I think they'd do well if properly prepared.
Originally Posted By: outoforder
My 2002 Expedition has some pretty ferocious rust on the radiator support. I am not sure there is enough good metal left to be worth scraping off all the rust. Is there any type of rusty metal primer and/or paint on the market I can use that will stop the rusting process? This is mostly a summer vehicle and I'm just trying to stretch major body repairs out a few more years.
I sold my 2004 Expedition for this reason.. There was major rust on the radiator supports and body mounts. This was in 2010 or so, and the truck was garage kept it's whole life. There was also rust coming up around the rocker panels, which started at the bottom seam.
My 2006 Explorer is perfect, no Wisconsin winters yet, but I bought it in Colorado and applied fluid film right away. I put it on a lift and used the KellSport gun kit, using the long tubes to spray it down every frame channel, etc.. I also replaced the radiator recently, and that gave a great opportunity to fog everything around the radiator support, inside the fenders, under the battery tray, etc...
This was the FluidFilm NAS formula which is in the 1 gallon pail, much thicker than the rattle can version.
http://www.kellsportproducts.com/undercoatingguns.html
My 2002 Expedition has some pretty ferocious rust on the radiator support. I am not sure there is enough good metal left to be worth scraping off all the rust. Is there any type of rusty metal primer and/or paint on the market I can use that will stop the rusting process? This is mostly a summer vehicle and I'm just trying to stretch major body repairs out a few more years.
I sold my 2004 Expedition for this reason.. There was major rust on the radiator supports and body mounts. This was in 2010 or so, and the truck was garage kept it's whole life. There was also rust coming up around the rocker panels, which started at the bottom seam.
My 2006 Explorer is perfect, no Wisconsin winters yet, but I bought it in Colorado and applied fluid film right away. I put it on a lift and used the KellSport gun kit, using the long tubes to spray it down every frame channel, etc.. I also replaced the radiator recently, and that gave a great opportunity to fog everything around the radiator support, inside the fenders, under the battery tray, etc...
This was the FluidFilm NAS formula which is in the 1 gallon pail, much thicker than the rattle can version.
http://www.kellsportproducts.com/undercoatingguns.html
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: outoforder
My 2002 Expedition has some pretty ferocious rust on the radiator support. I am not sure there is enough good metal left to be worth scraping off all the rust. Is there any type of rusty metal primer and/or paint on the market I can use that will stop the rusting process? This is mostly a summer vehicle and I'm just trying to stretch major body repairs out a few more years.
Common Ford problem on Expeditions and F-150's sad to say. My 2002 F-150 is in the body shop right now getting it replaced. It rotted and broke on both sides. It's an expensive job that requires drilling out the old spot welds and re welding in the replacement radiator support. It's lots of work. You basically dissemble the front of the truck. My maximum cost will be $1700, using a Ford support, including tax if everything goes wrong, less if not.
Whimsey
My 2002 Expedition has some pretty ferocious rust on the radiator support. I am not sure there is enough good metal left to be worth scraping off all the rust. Is there any type of rusty metal primer and/or paint on the market I can use that will stop the rusting process? This is mostly a summer vehicle and I'm just trying to stretch major body repairs out a few more years.
Common Ford problem on Expeditions and F-150's sad to say. My 2002 F-150 is in the body shop right now getting it replaced. It rotted and broke on both sides. It's an expensive job that requires drilling out the old spot welds and re welding in the replacement radiator support. It's lots of work. You basically dissemble the front of the truck. My maximum cost will be $1700, using a Ford support, including tax if everything goes wrong, less if not.
Whimsey
I've had very good results doing:
Never-Seize:
Buy a large can and brush it on
* Brake Lines
* Brake Bleeder Screws
* Fasteners under Vehicle
* Inside Fender Wells
13 years now and brake lines look brand new
Fluid Film: - does not harm rubber components and electrical wiring.
Does not all wash off over Winter
I buy the Gallon and Aerosol cans.
* Under Vehicle
* Inside Doors and Tailgate
I've had my vehicle 13 years now and RUST has never been an issue.
Never-Seize:
Buy a large can and brush it on
* Brake Lines
* Brake Bleeder Screws
* Fasteners under Vehicle
* Inside Fender Wells
13 years now and brake lines look brand new
Fluid Film: - does not harm rubber components and electrical wiring.
Does not all wash off over Winter
I buy the Gallon and Aerosol cans.
* Under Vehicle
* Inside Doors and Tailgate
I've had my vehicle 13 years now and RUST has never been an issue.
Yah, I use chassis grease on all my brake line work. It is the last thing I do before taking the car off the stands. I also use it on lugs and hubs. I even broke down my chimney brush rods. Cleaned the threads with my bench mount wire wheel and dipped the end in a tub of wheel bearing grease. I use slippery silicone stuff on the slides and as assembly lube when I rehab a caliper.
Demarpaint. I found an olive oil jug full of linseed oil when I cleaned out the basement on my folks house. A guy I knew from a jeep board recommended it for door bottoms and other water traps like cowls and such. I had heard of it one interweb also. When I renovated my 150 yr old farm house 35 yrs ago. I used linseed oil paint for the trim. Anyhow, I ware brushed and scraped the frame rails. Then after every session of fixing I added another coat of it to the inside of the frame rails.
Demarpaint. I found an olive oil jug full of linseed oil when I cleaned out the basement on my folks house. A guy I knew from a jeep board recommended it for door bottoms and other water traps like cowls and such. I had heard of it one interweb also. When I renovated my 150 yr old farm house 35 yrs ago. I used linseed oil paint for the trim. Anyhow, I ware brushed and scraped the frame rails. Then after every session of fixing I added another coat of it to the inside of the frame rails.
I'm in California so not as big of an issue, but close to the beach so we do get rust. I've found rustoleum rusty metal primer (the reddish brown stuff) works well. It's cheap in a gallon. Can thin it and spray it or just brush it on. Top coat if you like.
- Status
Similar threads
