Stopping Rust?

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I have a quarter sized piece of rust on the rocker panel of my '98 Cirrus. I know these cars are notorious for rusty rockers, and by the way the paint flaked off I suspect it is rusting from the inside out - but can't be sure.

I know there are some products that you can brush on that will stop the rust and form a protective barrier. I know this isn't a perfect solution and if it is rusting from the inside out will give me very little protection but it is an old car and just looking to try and nurse it along.

Any suggestions on which product might work best? I was thinking of brushing it on and hitting it with a little undercoating.
 
The BIG question is, Is it coming from the inside?
The only way to find out is to remove the rust with a grinder and see how deep it is.
If it is surface, I'd remove atpll traces of rust with acid, then treat the bare metal with primer and top coat.
 
Gonna have to do some surgery; you'll have to pick away at the paint to see how far the rust has progressed. Like expat said, you need to chip away at it until you've exposed all the rust under any loose paint.

Then you can do the usual; pick away any loose bits and treat it with a rust converter acid, clean it well, prime and paint.

I hear you though. Have the same issues on my '97 Breeze. Rust is getting to be an old thing to constantly fight, though mine is the battery box where acid there has completely ruined the wheel well.
 
POR 15, the whole kit, not just the paint, could slow it. But it will not stop unless it truly is surface rust only and you do the world's best job of sealing it up and containing it. Even then, give it 5 years...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
POR 15, the whole kit, not just the paint, could slow it. But it will not stop unless it truly is surface rust only and you do the world's best job of sealing it up and containing it. Even then, give it 5 years...


+1

Only slowing it down...
 
The only way I know to halt rocker panel rust, from the inside. is to drill a hole in the upper part, Fill the whole box section with a product like Waxoyle, then let it drain from a hole in the lower part, then plug the holes with a plastic plug.

Repeat every few years.
 
I know my VW has wax of some sort packed into those sorts areas. Hot summer days will cause it to flow a bit.
 
I have an active rust abatement program for the truck. I had the rustiest CRX known to mankind. Here's what I learned.

-POR15 can work. It also can not work.
-Wire wheels on a 4.5" grinder look like they work, but microscopic bits of rust stay behind.
-Products like Picklex20 work ok, but can also fail to get everything.
-Grinding down to bare metal works best so far. I got out the sand blaster (small) this time and worked everything over before I primed and painted.
-Two coats of primer, two coats of paint, two coats of clear may not be enough on all areas. It is on some.
-Rust will eventually win out.
-Welded-in patches with proper paint works sometimes. Other times, something is missed and will come back out. Hit/Miss at my skill level.
-Even so, my truck will last a few years longer for all the work done. That's still worth it, I guess.
 
I've been meaning to ask this for some time now, what about the cathodic rust protection kits J.C. Whitney and others sell, are they effective at slowing rust or is it snake oil?
 
Originally Posted By: Mr_Incredible
I have an active rust abatement program for the truck.


I do too, it's called living south of the Mason Dixon line and avoid those Northern turds like they were the plague...
 
The only way to stop rust is to not get the vehicle wet, ever.

Since this isn't practical with a daily driver just hose the bottom off with fresh water when you can, and if you see rust poking threw somewhere wire brush it and hit it with some Rustoleum.

By the time the rust gets bad enough to matter the car will be shot anyway.
 
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