Stocking Up On Motor Oil

[oil pan 4]

I suppose because I've never seen any test results on old unused oil.

Theres entire utub videos on the subject.
Running oxidized oil is a great way to carbon up piston rings.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Theres entire utub videos on the subject.
Running oxidized oil is a great way to carbon up piston rings.

Again, oxidized oil that has been used too long. Oil in the sump.

Show me a VOA of brand new oil sitting on the shelf for 5 years vs the exact same brew / same specs off the shelf - and I will be a believer.

Youtube is not a purveyor of truth, unfortunately.

 

[oil pan 4]

I question this as well, and would like to see the VOA showing this - say the same M1 oil with the same API grading, one new one some number or years old - for example.

Everything oxidizes in a oxygen environment, but oil in a sealed bottle is has very little exposure to oxygen and the reaction at room temperature is very low. Vs in the sump at high temperature being aerated as its sprayed around in the engine.

It might be measurable but likely not enough to matter in a reasonable time, say 5 years?

After 3 to 5 years its lawnmower or bar and chain grade. With the higher end being if its mobil1. Mobil1 usually does the best on the oxidization test.
For large backup generators supposed to change the oil every 2 years even if it only has 8hrs on the oil.
Johndeere oil says not to store it more than 3 years before you use it.
Problem is there's already air in the bottle when its packaged and it appears that oxidization begets oxidization.

 

[SC Maintenance]

After 3 to 5 years its lawnmower or bar and chain grade. With the higher end being if its mobil1. Mobil1 usually does the best on the oxidization test.
For large backup generators supposed to change the oil every 2 years even if it only has 8hrs on the oil.
Johndeere oil says not to store it more than 3 years before you use it.
Problem is there's already air in the bottle when its packaged and it appears that oxidization begets oxidization.

There is air in the bottle, but a small amount, a small amount of surface area vs in the sump.

When you change the oil 20% stays in the oil passages. There are rebuild specs and oil change fill specs for this reason. So 20% of the oil in your sump is automatically old oil.

Oxidization happens much more quickly at high temperatures, even if only a few cycles. A tree falls in the forest and oxidizes (rots) in a decade. Saw the tree up and throw it in a fire and it oxidizes (fire is simply rapid oxidization) in minutes.

There are many other reasons they have oil changes by time as well as miles / hours. Moisture, fuel contamination, old oil contamination, etc.

Again, show me a VOA of two examples. I am not saying it doesn't at all, I simply doubt that 5 years in the bottle is a meaningful amount.

 

[oil pan 4]

Again, oxidized oil that has been used too long. Oil in the sump.

Show me a VOA of brand new oil sitting on the shelf for 5 years vs the exact same brew / same specs off the shelf - and I will be a believer.

Youtube is not a purveyor of truth, unfortunately.

Oh I already did.
Last year I sacrificed some mobil1 0w-20 as flush oil that was probably 8 years old. It had a red tint to it.
If anything 5 years in a plastic bottle is being optimistic.
When I was active duty sealed barrels of 15w-40 were only good for 3 to 4 years. I have no doubt the government throws an alarming amount of tax payer money at figuring out how long stored oil stays good.

 

[Patman]

Theres entire utub videos on the subject.
Running oxidized oil is a great way to carbon up piston rings.

And you actually believe that YouTube videos are a great resource of accurate information?

 

[oil pan 4]

And you actually believe that YouTube videos are a great resource of accurate information?

Got any good alternatives?

 

[Patman]

Got any good alternatives?

Yes. Someone on here must have a jug of very old oil that they could send to a good lab (not Blackstone) and prove that you’re completely wrong.

 

[oil pan 4]

Yes. Someone on here must have a jug of very old oil that they could send to a good lab (not Blackstone) and prove that you’re completely wrong.

Already done.

If you don't believe it then find an old jug of oil send it to a lab and prove its fine.
I've already purged my old oil.

 

[Adkcedarman]

Yes. Someone on here must have a jug of very old oil that they could send to a good lab (not Blackstone) and prove that you’re completely wrong.

I have a Valvoline advanced 12qt box that’s been open since 2023 but I reckon that’s still perfectly usable, evidenced by the fact it’s in my Sienna currently with no apparent issues.

 

[CANADADIY]

Already done.

If you don't believe it then find an old jug of oil send it to a lab and prove its fine.
I've already purged my old oil.

How does it perform though? And will it be better or worse than new oil available on the shelf in say a year or so

 

[oil pan 4]

I have a Valvoline advanced 12qt box that’s been open since 2023 but I reckon that’s still perfectly usable, evidenced by the fact it’s in my Sienna currently with no apparent issues.

3 years appears to be good enough for John deere and the US government.

 

[Zebra312]

I have no doubt the government throws an alarming amount of tax payer money at figuring out how long stored oil stays good.

I have no doubt the government cares less about shelf stability than making their preferred contractors money by following the manufacturer’s “recommendations.”


If it’s sealed, I’ll run it.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Oh I already did.
Last year I sacrificed some mobil1 0w-20 as flush oil that was probably 8 years old. It had a red tint to it.
If anything 5 years in a plastic bottle is being optimistic.
When I was active duty sealed barrels of 15w-40 were only good for 3 to 4 years. I have no doubt the government throws an alarming amount of tax payer money at figuring out how long stored oil stays good.

You already did an actual analysis at a reputable lab? Then post it up.

Everything you have posted is anecdotal.

The military spec is likely WW2 era, and undoubtedly includes the likelihood of the failure of the barrel, which would be more catastrophic to the military than throwing out some taxpayer dollars.

 

[oil pan 4]

How does it perform though? And will it be better or worse than new oil available on the shelf in say a year or so

New SQ spec appears to actually be better than SP. As far as I can tell there's no logical reason to buy up and then use a bunch of old motor oil.
Only disadvantage I can see is the magnesium detergent in SQ costs more if you don't need it. But that magnesium detergent eliminates low speed pre-ignition in DI engines.

 

[oil pan 4]

You already did an actual analysis at a reputable lab? Then post it up.

Everything you have posted is anecdotal.

The military spec is likely WW2 era, and undoubtedly includes the likelihood of the failure of the barrel, which would be more catastrophic to the military than throwing out some taxpayer dollars.

I already purged my old oil. I wasn't going to waste money on testing old oil.
Anecdotal is in my price range.
If you're so convinced its fine you test it.
The current military spec is CK-4 according to the last empty barrels I saw at the scrap yard.

 

[oil pan 4]

I have no doubt the government cares less about shelf stability than making their preferred contractors money by following the manufacturer’s “recommendations.”


If it’s sealed, I’ll run it.

Ill run it too. In a chainsaw, a lawnmower or as flush oil.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I already purged my old oil. I wasn't going to waste money on testing old oil.
Anecdotal is in my price range.
If you're so convinced its fine you test it.
The current military spec is CK-4 according to the last empty barrels I saw at the scrap yard.

Your the one telling everyone else there wrong, even though it defies basic chemistry.

I have a Nissan with 425K and one with 250K, longer than most people here ever run a vehicle, and have been pouring cheap stashed oil since the start. No ill affects. So my anecdotal data I guess is just as good?

 

[Zebra312]

Ill run it too. In a chainsaw, a lawnmower or as flush oil.

I have a shelf full of of TropArtic 10w-40 that i know is least 20 years old. It was given to me during a barn clean out. It works fantastic in my little Ford Ranger.

I just bought 24qt of Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 from AutoZone that was made in 2014. I plan to run that in my LQ4 Silverado and have zero concerns.

Shake it up and send it…bothers me not at all.

 

[oil pan 4]

Your the one telling everyone else there wrong, even though it defies basic chemistry.

I have a Nissan with 425K and one with 250K, longer than most people here ever run a vehicle, and have been pouring cheap stashed oil since the start. No ill affects. So my anecdotal data I guess is just as good?

If you search on here "used motor oil looks red" there's tons of posts from about 2016 to 2020 about people posting their used motor oil looks red.
I had unopened mobil1 from 2018 that had a reddish tint to it. Why would it do that? Basic chemistry....

Nissans also appear to be highly tolerant of neglect.