The new to me dart I bought needed a driver side control arm ball joint assembly. I bought one from oriellys auto parts but I was a little surprised to find out they're are steel. I couldn't locate an aluminum control arm. Which made me wonder is there any difference to one over the other? Any benefits to one over another? Obviously aluminum is lighter but does that matter for any reasonable purpose?
Steel vs aluminum suspension parts
- Thread starter wheelman
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Is the original on the car aluminum?
Aluminum is more expensive than steel, so the aftermarket will probably try to use steel. The aluminum part is probably a bit beefier in thickness than a steel replacement would need to be, so the weight will be just about a wash. Make sure the steel replacement has a good coat of paint.
I'll throw this in for free at the risk of starting a flame war: aluminum isn't the lightweight, corrosion-resistant miracle metal a lot of people seem to think it is.
Aluminum is more expensive than steel, so the aftermarket will probably try to use steel. The aluminum part is probably a bit beefier in thickness than a steel replacement would need to be, so the weight will be just about a wash. Make sure the steel replacement has a good coat of paint.
I'll throw this in for free at the risk of starting a flame war: aluminum isn't the lightweight, corrosion-resistant miracle metal a lot of people seem to think it is.
Most aluminum control arms are hot forged and heat treated 6030 and sometimes 6061 aluminum, very strong and very corrosion resistant.
I see 20+ year old aluminum control arms that have lived in winter/salt environments and other than a bit of surface rubbish that is easily cleaned away are perfectly fine, replace the bushings/joints and carry on.
Just like steel there are many grades and qualities, most steel control arms are hollow stamped and welded steel and not as strong or rigid as aluminum.
no, dart always had aluminium arms, but the giulietta used in europe has steel arms. they could be interchangeable, if the track width difference is in the subframe.
I've seen steel arms getting bend in accidents, but aluminium arms (i40/sonata in particular) tend to break
I've seen steel arms getting bend in accidents, but aluminium arms (i40/sonata in particular) tend to break
Yep. My old BMW had both, two of the four major arms on the front were steel and two were aluminum. The cheap replacements for the aluminum arms were made from steel.
I know my car has aluminum control arms that were switched to steel after my model year was made. Presumably to cut costs. For whatever reasons people in that particular forum considers the aluminum version to be an upgrade.
I really don't know I never did it but I probably wouldn't, the aluminum has more rigidity and may cause more wear on other parts or tires but like I say I don't know.
Perhaps an engineer could chime in but it may also be that aluminum arms could be designed to fail in an impact before damage to the frame occurs?
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I have 3 cars running and on the road with (almost) 20 year old aluminum control arms and they are just fine. One 2003 and two 2004 Buick Lesabres. 196K, 170K and the low mileage '04 with only 95K. As usual, Trav is right; all I'd need to do is replace rubber bushings and I'd probably be good for another 20 years. Of course, at age 65, don't know that I'll still be turning wrenches in another 20 years.
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Sorry, I just realized all I did was comment and didn't address your question. If Trav doesn't know, I'd run it without hesitation. Or perhaps ask the parts store to put you in contact with the manufacturer of the part and ask them what they have to say for themselves.
I put aluminum rear lower control arms on my car just because they were the higher priced option within aftermarket performamce brands.
In my case they seemed to weigh a little more than half the steel oem ford arms I took off, losing partially unsprung weight. I read they are more rigid than steel and provide a more responsive suspension. Feels that way to me, but it was also switching to poly bushings at the same time.
I read they are more prone to warping, and should be considered a wear item, but some guy at a car show said that is BS
In my case they seemed to weigh a little more than half the steel oem ford arms I took off, losing partially unsprung weight. I read they are more rigid than steel and provide a more responsive suspension. Feels that way to me, but it was also switching to poly bushings at the same time.
I read they are more prone to warping, and should be considered a wear item, but some guy at a car show said that is BS
It allows some of the energy of the collision to be directed away from the occupants of the vehicle...
No, you won't notice, however I never would replace aluminum control arms with inferior stamped steel ones. Trav is right, there are no corrosion issues existent with properly made forged aluminum LCAs. Stamped and welded steel control arms will rust much quicker. Also, there's no need to bend in case of an accident. Commonly there's a bracket that's designed to break first.
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On BMW it's usually a stamped steel component that takes the punishment thereby sparing the hub and sub-frame.
On my old BMW there wasn't a problem with corrosion even after 20 years here in the salt belt. The only real difference I saw was that the FSM said you could replace just the bushings in the two steel arms whereas it was not permitted in the aluminum ones. But they both had non-replaceable ball joints on the other end so it really was a moot point to me. I wasn't going to put new and expensive liquid-filled bushings in arms with 20 year-old ball joints.
stamped steel is always a low cost solution, that’s the only benefit
think volvo s80 to ford taurus and mercedes w220 to chrysler 300c
think volvo s80 to ford taurus and mercedes w220 to chrysler 300c
