Starter questions for an F-150

[TechnoLoGs]

Hey. Up again. Let me ask about that 2000 F-150 issue, the one where every now and again, it will grind on the starter, or that is what is sounds like. I appreciate the input as to how the timing on this 5.4 Triton ? engine is non-adjustable and if it was out of time it would run horribly... so, that brings us back to the starter, flywheel/flexplate, slash ring gear?? Let me first ask more about this ring gear and flywheel business, please educate me.. I was always under the impression, including from watching video walk-throughs on Youtube that a starter changeout consisted of two bolts, and lining up said starter, then wiring it. What all more is involved? And "shims"?? What?

And are we in agreement that even with a new starter, of unknown kind, that that may still be at issue in the truly intermittent nature of grind noise and no start when the key is turned? My S10 needs a starter too.. How does a starter become worn. ? Let us start there, I am not afraid of the work, but I do not know what is involved, and obviously the F150 is a little cleaner than the one that just got put back together and still won't start.

 

[LargeCarManX2]

First disconnect the battery. Take out the starter, when your down there....look at the flex plate or flywheel. You should be able to turn the engine over from down there with a large screwdiver or have a buddy turn the engine over at the front pully bolt. Look for bad teeth, send the starter out for repair/rebuild. I personally would also replace the positive cable, relay solenoid, and have the battery tested by the rebuilder. I have never had to shim a starter when replacing. A bad starter can not be fully engaging the flex plate or flywheel.

 

[punisher]

Should be a plug on the drivers side(to access the torque converter bolts). You might/should be able to inspect the teeth through that.

No shims/no adjustment on that starter if I remember. Ditto on looking for some bad teeth on the flexplate.

 

[Chris142]

Your 5.4L does not and can't use shims. Shims are mainly for GM cars and some Fords in the 70's and 80's.

Every time an engine stops it only stops in a few places. So if it stops in one place enough times it will wear the ring gear teeth. Some times you can remove the ring gear from the flex plate or flywheel and turn it around which gives the starter a fresh set of teeth to catch on.

Ignition timing has nothing to do with a starter grinding. It only grinds if there is a problem with the gear on the starter, the gear on the flexplate or if the starter does not kick out far enough to grab the ring gear.

Again it's not timing related in any way.

 

[bdcardinal]

If that starter has never been done before, it will be held in with 3 bolts. There are no shims on this application.

 

[FL_Rob]

I'm trying to tell you check all your grounds .Look at my previous post and follow the cables from the starter to the batt ,to the engine block, to the frame .Take readings at each.Tell us what you have.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

The bendix could be wearing out and not engaging the starter fast enough.

The starter I bought from NAPA new passed all of the bench testing (had a friend of mine who is a manager at advance test it) but when we compared it to a starter they had in stock, it engaged too slow.

Last thing I'll ever buy from NAPA. Got tired of replacing their faulty stuff.