stainless steel brake lines

[redhat]

I replaced a cracked brake hose on my Accord a couple of months ago. I was going around giving things a good once over today and noticed that my two front brake hoses have small crack in them. I would like to replace the rest of the brake hoses on my car. Going rate at the local parts stores is anywhere from $25-30 per hose. I was looking on TireRack and saw a set of stainless steel brake hoses for about $120.

I have no problem spending a little bit more, my question is, are they worth it? Has anyone else here noticed a braking difference? Do you think their longevity is as good or better than rubber lines?

Any brands to avoid? Any to jump on?

As always, thanks!

 

[expat]

I used Goodridge braided lines on my Triumph, front and rear.
They did make the pedal feel a little firmer, but then, the old cheap, Victoria British, Rubber lines were garbage.

 

[turtlevette]

I don't think stainless is worth it unless you are going to race and want less pedal travel. And I'm not sure stainless braided even provides that. They're also not as sturdy (I snapped off the connections by letting the caliper hang) and many times not DOT approved.

 

[Chris142]

Make sure they are dot approved if you have safety inspections

 

[Trav]

Much better than stock rubber hoses. Get DOT approved and make sure you get a set that has a plastic cover over the braid, it prevents sand and dirt from getting in the braid and damaging the teflon core.

 

[Smoky14]

They make a BIG difference on a motorcycle, I suppose they would be an improvement on a car.
YMMV

Smoky

 

[daman]

I have them on my P/U and yes made a difference the peddle is much firmer/solid.

 

[spackard]

I got a set on close out from Tire Rack several years ago. Brings the pedal engagement point up from the floor a little. I liked the result. Car now 22 years old.

 

[Donald]

Stainless steel still have rubber on the inside and that can be where the problems first shows up.

Replacing a cracking brake hose with a similar one will most likely last the rest of the life of the vehicle.

Also unless very careful and lots of PB Blaster you can snap the attached steel brakes lines while replacing the flex lines.

 

[Trav]

No rubber inside its a PTFE liner, the only real issue with them is not aging but damage by abrasive particles getting through the braid. The plastic covering takes care of that problem.

 

[d00df00d]

When you're looking at stainless steel brake lines, the most important thing is quality. Legitimate DOT approval is the most efficient way to know that they are good enough. Do not accept ANY apparent defects.

In my experience, stainless steel brake lines give slightly-to-significantly better pedal feel. They may also reduce heat-related mushiness in the pedal, although I'd be surprised if you notice that on the street.

The downside is that you have to inspect them regularly. If the outer coating breaks, or if the braid frays, you have to replace them right away.

I have stainless steel brake lines on my car. Inspecting them isn't a problem for me because I end up taking the wheels off or getting under the car every few months for one reason or another. If it weren't for that, I'd have stuck with the stock brake lines.

 

[SteveSRT8]

It should be noted that these are NOT ss lines, they are regular rubber ones with a wrap of ss over the rubber to control expansion.

Depending on the application they can be quite effective. Sometimes they will do zero, zip, zilch.

I'd strongly suggest a call to Dave Zeckhausen on this as he is "the man" for brakes...

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
They're also not as sturdy (I snapped off the connections by letting the caliper hang) and many times not DOT approved.


Unfortunately that was not the part's fault, that was the user's fault. You are not supposed to let calipers hang anyway, but ESPECIALLY with braided lines. Every pair I have handled has that warning in with the install instructions. FWIW I have had them on every car I have owned, and have a set for my '14 ready to go once I get other parts together.

You can get them wrapped either in basic tape, or a high temp coating to prevent the chafing in the lines.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
It should be noted that these are NOT ss lines, they are regular rubber ones with a wrap of ss over the rubber to control expansion.

Depending on the application they can be quite effective. Sometimes they will do zero, zip, zilch.

I'd strongly suggest a call to Dave Zeckhausen on this as he is "the man" for brakes...


I never saw them with rubber hose inside just the Teflon liner, i have seen some like that for fuel and coolant.

Edit: The ones i saw with rubber hose inside were cheap just for looks things with a clamp cover instead of AN fittings.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
It should be noted that these are NOT ss lines, they are regular rubber ones with a wrap of ss over the rubber to control expansion.

Depending on the application they can be quite effective. Sometimes they will do zero, zip, zilch.

I'd strongly suggest a call to Dave Zeckhausen on this as he is "the man" for brakes...


I never saw them with rubber hose inside just the Teflon liner, i have seen some like that for fuel and coolant.

Edit: The ones i saw with rubber hose inside were cheap just for looks things with a clamp cover instead of AN fittings.


There is a liner but that is to protect the RUBBER hose from chafing. There is a lot of flexing under the ridiculous pressures used in some braking systems.

Some even have a plastic interior coating or liner, but many ordinary brake hoses do anyway...

 

[Trav]

I think we are talking about two different types of SS braided lines.
I am only familiar with this type being used for brake lines.

http://www.venhillusa.com/why-venhill-brake-lines

There is this type which has rubber but i never saw it used in brakes. Can you post a link, i am interested in who makes them and what the advantage is one over the other.

http://www.mphindy.com/tech/cpe.htm

 

[nleksan]

The lines from StopTech, after having used quite a few different manufacturers' products, are in my opinion the best you can get for the money. They are constructed just like the lines in the first link above, with the external polymer sealant, then the actual braided stainless steel strands, PTFE lining, and very high quality fasteners.
I have them on my street, track, and everything in-between cars, and the eldest set has accrued quite a few miles while looking far younger. My 328Ci, which is currently running StopTech Trophy brakes (6piston 365mm 2pc front, 4piston 348mm 2pc rear; monobloc "bare aluminum" calipers, slotted 2pc rotors: it's an M3 fitment kit due to having M3 axles), it's 6th BBK (prior kits are Brembo, Brembo GT*R, Wilwood, and PFC ZCP). Out of them all, each one including its own set of SS lines, the ST have been the best made, and considering that I have quite a bit of stuff that is actively trying to cut into the lines (ie TMS CF backing plates + cooling ducts), not to mention the extreme pressure put on them at the track where they withstand braking forces in excess of 1.35 G's slowing a nearly 1.5 ton vehicle from 125-155mph+ to 35-60mph every few seconds for up to eight hours without any reprieve, I feel confident in saying that while you can certainly spend more, I highly doubt that you will get more than what StopTech offers.

Also, yes, while one benefit of SS lines is improved pedal feel/modulation, and a big leap in consistency, the primary benefit is that the lines are tougher and much less likely to rupture from either external or internal forces.


One of the best upgrades for your brakes, assuming you are already running proper tires (as in UHP+ Summer or better), is SS lines, improved pads (ST Street Performance are the best all around pads I've ever used, and superior to OEM pads in every application for which I've used them), proper rotors (if 2pc are available, always a good idea; I prefer slotted, but always avoid drilled as there is no mfgr that casts the holes in, and only premium rotors a la PFC (not Brembo) chamfer the drill points), brass caliper guides, and quality brake fluid such as Motul RBF600/660 or Castrol SRF.
(ATE fluid gets three thumbs down from me, being the only fluid that has boiled multiple times despite proper bleeding)